Warehouse33.net

I would go with the Sachs 2.5 clutch set-up even if I didn't plan on upping the power, just so it was already in place if I decided to do so down the road.
I sell the Sachs 2.5 if you're interested, PM or email me.

-Jason

Kevin

If you track your car, here is one of the best clutch kits that is available..

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...-445-00-a.html

For those that want to keep the stock dual mass

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...-595-00-a.html

I strongly recommend replacing ones dual mass flywheel when these conditions are reached>

1) Over 75 to 80K miles. The rubber hub is now less elastic and is starting to break down. Replacing your clutch and having a center hub failure will require you to spend labor the second time to replace the flywheel and remove your clutch.

2) If you have excessive slippage and have burnt the friction surface, you will have chatter in first gear and most likely in Reverse.

3) Porsche has a recommendation "IF" the vehicle is on the 2nd replacement clutch> a new flywheel should be replaced.

breakfast

Just had a look. Everything on the outside is still attached/not broken/still working.

Pulled the starter and cover just to take a peak. It wont ever be pristine, but there is excessive amounts of dust/gunk imo. Something is obviously up, supported by the slipping and wobbly pedal feel.

Looks like its time to drop the trans/order some parts.

Aspen Autosports

Yes sir, definitely pull that gear box and get parts on order. Let me know if I can help.

911mhawk

I dealt with Kevin/UMW for a kit to support his power upgrades and have been extremely pleased with the feel and performance. He provides a very complete kit eliminating guesswork, and gave some recommendations everyone else seems o forget about.
I'm glad to have taken heed to his advice, this is not a job you want to do twice, or more, take my word for it!

breakfast

My damn slave blew out while uninstslling.
Never had that happen. So much for avoiding a bleed. That could explain the weird pedal feel.

My gt2 slave mod is using dgreen bracket and rod .

There were no leaks and fluid level was full/normal

breakfast

Pro tip: take out the god damn crash bar on the top of the trans. Even lowering the engine quite a bit I couldnt clear the crash bar, and the transmission mount "subframe"(the black bar the trans mount mounts to).

Could be because Im a bit rusty, but I was having a heck of a time. Took out the top crash bar(was a pita) but it made things move that much easier.
whether anyone replies or not. I will update this thread with my progress, as Im tired of searching posts and finding people never updated the progress, or shared any tips.

this car makes my bmws feel like magic to wrench on.

911mhawk

Pro tip 2: pull the upper stud on starter

Yes, I've done clutches on e30 M3 and e39 540 and can confirm they're easier.
500+HP is worth the hassle...

breakfast

^ yup.
Question.
How can I get the trans past the coolant lines that run directly underneath?

Since Im on jackstands there isnt much room to work with.

911mhawk

You can't.
Use hose pinch pliers, you won't loose coolant and the hoses come off the tube so you can move it away.

breakfast

thank you.

That step is conveniently left out in all the diys I have come across. I do have the 996tt service manual. Maybe I shouldve consulted it rather than trusting poorly written diys. lol

breakfast

initial reports. Pressure plate has some cracks starting to propagate.
Car only has an exhaust and has never seen the track(at least by me) Interesting.

I am not 100% sure if this clutch is original either. I found what looks like bits of tape and tape adhesive on the release fork. I wouldnt guess that as a factory step for install, but weirder things can happen.






I have to grab some xzn bits before I can see whats up behind.

32krazy!

starter has bolts not studs. i think you mean the trans stud . pass side upper is longer than the others
if you remove the plastic holders for the water lines up to the front, (3 i think) there is tons of flex available to allow you to drop the trans around the lines. of course the lines attaching to the motor itself have to be removed

911mhawk

Thanks 32, you're right on the trans stud.
Must have blocked that out of memory, remove that stud first, while rest of transmission is still snug on engine to make removal easier.

breakfast

Update again.
Some pictures of what came out. I've ordered replacement bits/waiting for them to come.
So just looking at the pictures trying to figure out what happened.
Release bearing is a bit noisy(but not excessive). There is a crack on the inner sleeve. It also looks like the wear on the pressure plate fingers is off center from the release bearing.
Pressure plate has the cracks I showed earlier. Everything else looks to be intact.
The disc is glazed but still had plenty of meat on it. Though one side is more worn than the other.
Flywheel is tired. The dual mass still kind of works but not optimally.

I do not have any oil leaks out of the rear main seal, but that bit of "dribble"/staining that looks older, is a bit concerning. Wondering I should change it out while Im there? No leaks right now though.

*random order