Luckymike996

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...&ul_noapp=true
What do you guys feel would be a fair sale price on this one?
Car had PPI done when current owner purchased last year. Coolant hoses did their thing and current owner replaced clutch and other misc items while hoses were getting welded. Spoke with the shop that did the work (Motorsport Salt Lake City ) and everything is as described on this car.
I know the eBay ad has ended but I am in contact with owner as we speak. Ask price is 43600. I am thinking 38.5-39
Thoughts/advice? Not in a hurry but this car happens to tick all the right boxes for me.
Thanks guys,
Mike

petron5000

Did last years PPI reveal that it needed all that work?

Why is he selling after 1,500 miles and lots of $$$ spent?

KC-CarGuy

People sell cars for lots of reasons. If you know the shop, get the PPI, get the car fax, and all checks out - pull the trigger. The 996TT is a great car.

If you are really being snoopy you can do some social media research on the seller. If there is + / - information it could be good to have.

Just my two bits.

Macster

Plug the VIN into a google search and visit some of the links.

The car was offered for sale in PA with 55622 miles on it. Don't have a date of the for sale ad though.

With 41259 miles it was offered for sale in Buffalo Grove, OH.

'course, none of the above renders the car undesireable.

My advice is to whenever possible visit the car and have a test ride then a test drive. You want to experience the car in its natural setting, engine running and the car on the road being driven or driving it as you intend to use the car.

Afterwards then a full used car check out to ensure everything works and there are no signs of any issues, like water in the cabin, leaking spoiler hydraulics, etc.

After all of your checking the car out then arrange for a PPI. Among other things this has the car in the air so a careful inspection can be made looking for any issues like leaks. Every gasket, seal, o-ring, hose and hose fitting, clamp, hydraulic line and line fitting is checked for any leak sign.

Water pump, RMS, transmission seals (including the hard to see ones on the sides of the transmission), front diff, CV boots, power steering lines and fittings, radiator hoses, and radiators, everything is checked.

For price all I can offer is visit various used car pricing sites: www.kbb.com and www.nada.com (I think NADA site might have lower numbers); and plug in the car's MY and mileage and condition and see what the trade-in/wholesale numbers are. That's your price negotiating starting point.

How much over this you pay is up to the seller and you.

Remember price is not fact only an opinion and if you have a gut feeling about the car walk away. There is always another car.

911mhawk

Get your own unbiased PPi, don't rely on last years, 1,500 miles ago.
Plane tix and hotels are cheap compared to some repairs on these.

Luckymike996

I plan do having my own PPI done. Guy is moving to New York for work and has several other cars and motorcycles so he is trying to get rid of a few things to avoid storage. When the coolant hoses unbuttoned he had them welded and did the other work based on the shop recommendation. The old adage of "while you're in there".
So with a clean PPI (hopefully) what should be my starting offer?
Mike

Luckymike996

Motorsport Invoice, 07.17.16.xls

Luckymike996

Sorry, couldn't get invoice to attach. Anyway, it was just over 7k of work and should be good to go for a while.
I looked at the KBB and NADAvalues and they are NO where near what the market seems to be dictatating. Most ask prices are in the 35k-45k range. I just wanted a price opinion from the forum as you guys really seem to have your fingers on the Porsche market pulse. So that being said, where would start negotiations?
Mike

z06801

Yes this ^ wouldn't trust one from that shop from my past experience, let me know if you need help getting the car to a different shop. I would go to Concourse or the SLC dealer where I know and trust a couple of the techs really well.

Luckymike996

I totally get it on the PPI deal, trust me.

KBB, NADA and the like all show this year, make, model, condition and mileage at the 35k
Price point. Is this accurate considering the market trends seems to be on the rise. ( I have been shopping and lurking for over a year). Just looking for a realistic number.
I love the passion for the PPI here!! I feel the same way��
Mike

Atrox

I'm partial to midnight blue, so I'm digging this car. I'd offer 40k after clean Ppi and negotiate from there. If you can meet in the middle great, either way the listed price is well within reason.

Nada, KBB, values are not accurate as these cars are priced off of market value and sale for higher.

Midnight blue is by no means rare, but the color in person is amazing and is refreshing after you see all the grey/silver cars for sale. Sometimes it looks black, other times purple. Couldn't be happier with mine, but it gets dirty like a black car and requires the same OCD tendencies with washing etc.

This is a low to mid 40k car all day. @ 38k is to low to start negotiations.

Th Dude

It's ALL about condition. Considering the recent work, IF the condition checks out, the seller's asking price is more than fair. If he takes less than $40k, he's an idiot or he's desperate.

Luckymike996

Thanks Atrox,
That why I was asking. KBB/NADA don't "feel" market trends . I just wanted to make sure I was in the ballpark.


Z06801,
Thanks for the offer but the seller is more than happy to take it for MY PPI at a place of my choosing. So that's promising and shows that the seller is fairly confident in his TT.
Thanks for the help gents!
Mike

FRUNKenstein

Agree with Atrox and Th Dude. In October/November, $38k would probably buy the car, but not in July. I'd say $42,000.

911mhawk

Negotiating price before or after the PPI may benefit one party more than the other.