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Old 07-20-2016, 02:50 AM
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shanemiller33329
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Default 2001 turbo

Just joined this forum today, looking for some advice as I am currently debating picking up a 2001 Turbo from Champion Porsche down in south florida. It's a yellow one with a nice list of mods (most of which i'd want to do myself if I were to buy a stock one) has 47k miles for 54k. Not sure if this is a good deal as they also have a bone stock with 29k miles for 50k. Both are very clean. What issues should I look for under inspection other than the over revs on the computer (type 3 and higher if i remember correctly). I've owned a 2014 cayman w/pdk before so this is my first 911 i'm considering. Thanks in advance for any advice given.
List of mods/recent work done:
OEM Porsche Aerokit
Billet K16 Turbo Chargers
Bosch 72 LB EV14 Injectors
Tubi Style Exhaust
New Coil Packs
New Oil Lines
New Plugs
Sachs Sport Clutch
New OEM Flywheel
Moton Clubsport Coilover Suspension
Tarret Drop Links
996 GT3 Sport Seats w/ Painted Seat Backs and Deviated Stitching in Yellow
Painted Console
OEM Porsche Short Shifter
Custom Steering Wheel w/ Flat Bottom and Yellow Stitching
Expel Self Healing Clear Bra Full Front Coverage
Old 07-20-2016, 03:26 AM
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Atrox
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Stock one should be going for more and be priced at $50-55k (retrospect to dealership) They are asking premium dealership prices. Privately both cars would be mid to high 40's. Since you like all the mods you would spend well over that to get there so it may be a good deal for you. Get checked out by someone not associated with the dealership who knows these cars first.
Old 07-20-2016, 03:34 AM
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shanemiller33329
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I agree and was going to negotiate taking it into someone i have known for over a decade that runs a european auto shop (i work for firestone but my techs aren't exactly used to a 911 let alone a turbo) and having him inspect it and run the computer for me looking for type 2 or higher overrevs. what would be a safe overrev number i have seen type 2 isnt bad as long as the counter isnt high ie type 2 overrevs 3 compared to 300. And yes looking nationwide at autotrader whether private or dealer for a sub 50k clean title they are high 40's to low 50s stock. I figured the oem aero kit (around 7k without paint and install) almost justified the slightly higher price. http://www.champion-porsche.com/vehi...fl-id-13412410 is the car.
Old 07-20-2016, 03:35 AM
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shanemiller33329
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also this one is on consignment so owner is asking xy and dealer is marking up a couple ground or so
Old 07-20-2016, 03:38 AM
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Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but on the 996tt, I believe you only get type 1 and 2 overrevs.
Old 07-20-2016, 03:40 AM
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Also, if you aren't in a hurry (and you shouldn't be - take your time, be patient), waiting until after Labor Day is a good idea.
Old 07-20-2016, 04:09 AM
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shanemiller33329
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Ya im not sure on the overrevs count i was just showing a type 2 overrev counter as in it had 3 type 2 overrevs compared to it had 300 type 2 overrevs (someone sucks at driving) Not in the biggest hurry but want to get this done within the next week been having that craving now for a while for a new car so not sure if i can wait until after labor day and does the price fluctuate that much after labor day. And in regards to the over revs i know you want to look for how long its been since the last type 1 or type 2 and then you take the number of overrevs and divide by 3 to get how many revolutions then divide by the limiter to figure out how long over its life it spent at said limiter/over limiter. What would be a safe amount of type 2 over revs IE 300 over revs since thats 100 revolutions and at 8k rpms it would be like 30 secs at it over the life of the vehicle?
Old 07-20-2016, 08:26 AM
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Over range revs
http://www.911virgin.com/porsche/rev-range-information/
Rev Range Activity....a much discussed and often misunderstood topic striking fear in to the hearts of those exploring Porsche ownership or those looking to renew or activate insurance backed warranty schemes on their vehicles.

We embraced the importance of Rev Range activity many years ago and our contribution towards a universal clarity has been significant. Our buyer Tom has become something of a specialist on the topic and to this end is regularly approached for subjective advice. In theory the principles behind Rev Range activity are simple, it’s the variation in data interpretation that causes issues.

Engines are designed to operate up to a maximum rotational speed. The manufacturer uses a rev limiter to prevent engine speeds exceeding a pre-determined point of safety. At full throttle and whilst pushing and holding the accelerator pedal down indefinitely the engine can’t and won’t exceed the rotational speed of the limiter. However, when a driver selects too low a gear relative to the speed of travel, the momentum of the car can mechanically drive the engine past a point of safety.

Rev Range data is stored in the cars ECU (engine control unit). The ECU is able to record and store engine ignitions at or past the cars limiter. On a 6 cylinder engine there are 3 ignition pulses per engine revolution. Ignitions are recorded as a cumulative total throughout a cars life.
•986 and 996 models have 2 Rev Ranges. Rev Range 1 records ignitions at the rev limiter whilst Rev Range 2 records ignitions beyond the limiter
•987, 997, 981 and 991 models have the ability to record ignitions in 6 different ranges. Rev Range 1 and 2 record ignitions at or just below the limiter. Ranges 3 through 6 represent increasingly higher engine speeds

Shown below are the engine speed ranges for selected models within the Porsche line-up in revolutions per minute

You need to go to the site to see these charts



Range 1
Range 2

996 Boxster
> 7200 and < 7800
> 7800

996 Carrera
> 7300 and < 7900
> 7900

996 Turbo and 996 GT2
> 6750 and < 7250
> 7250

996 GT3
> 8200 and < 8800
> 8800

Cayenne 3.2 (V6)
> 6700 and < 6900
> 6900

Cayenne S 4.5 (V8)
> 6900 and < 7200
> 7200

Cayenne Turbo
> 6670 and < 7000
> 7000





Range 1
">Range 2
Range 3
Range 4
Range 5
Range 6

987 Boxster
> 7200 and < 7500
> 7500 and < 7700
> 7700 and < 7900
> 7900 and < 8400
> 9400 and < 9500
> 9500

997 Carrera
> 7300 and < 7500
">> 7500 and < 7700
> 7700 and < 7900
> 7900 and < 8400
> 8400 and < 9500
> 9500

997 GT3
> 9000 and < 9200
> 9200 and < 9400
> 9400 and < 9600
> 9600 and < 10000
> 10000 and < 11000
> 11000

997 Turbo
> 6800 and < 7000
> 7000 and < 7200
> 7200 and < 7400
> 7400 and < 7900
> 7900 and < 9000
> 9000




Until recently ignitions recorded in ranges 3 and 4 were considered by the Manufacturer to be safe with such vehicles still eligible for Porsche Extended warranty. Ignitions recorded in Ranges 5 and 6 would not be considered for warranty with existing policies invalidated at the point of over rev. Current Porsche warranty procedure considers activity in ranges 3 and 4 to be potentially problematic with compression tests and / or oil checks deemed necessary for incursions within the last 200 operating hours. However, in a pragmatic relaxation of previous protocol vehicles with activity in ranges 5 and 6 will be considered for extended warranty provided the over rev activity occurred more than 200 operating hours ago. The warranty provision is at the discretion of the importer and subject to the aforementioned compression/oil checks.

An operating hour log captures the exact moment when the most recent activity within a given rev range is recorded. The timing of the most recently recorded over rev is as significant as the over-rev itself.

When the engine rev limiter is exceeded the engine can fail or be damaged leaving it susceptible to future failure. Instant failure would normally be caused by valves hitting a piston. Subsequent or delayed failure is often caused by a compromised timing chain which can be weakened or stretched at high engine speeds. If a timing chain were to be excessively stretched failure is possible due to the abrasive effect of a slack chain against the sprocket teeth on which it runs.

Industry experts would suggest a 50 operating hour window of danger after the point of an over rev where chains or associated inter-gear can fail or develop problems leading to costly engine work / engine rebuilds.

At 911Virgin our purchase policy prevents us from considering a car with engine over rev activity beyond the rev limiter within the last 50 operating hours.

We are regularly approached to help interpret Rev Range Data. The ability to separate genuine incident from an erroneous recording is critical. In general terms we would consider the registering of less than 10 ignitions within a given range to be no cause for concern. 10 ignitions represents fractions of a second, insufficient time, in our experience to cause damage. Porsche take a different view and consider the registering of a single ignition (one third of an engine revolution) to be relevant. A single ignition recorded in rev range 3 or higher within a 200 operating hour period means that an engine compression test is deemed necessary.

The registering and recording of a single ignition at such high engine speed, in our view, is just not possible in the same way that a single ignition in, for example, Rev Range 4 can't follow a single ignition in the previous rev range. In order to pass in to a higher bracket of engine speed the engine must complete at least a full engine revolution, a minimum of 3 ignitions.

We are regularly asked if Tiptronic and PDK equipped Porsches can record legitimate engine ignitions past the limiter; Due to the manner in which the gearbox automatically changes up a gear when the engine speed reaches a certain point it is unlikely but not impossible. We recall a 996 Tiptronic Turbo that we travelled to purchase. On the surface a beautiful car but with 313 ignitions recorded in Rev Range 2, the most recent of which recorded within the last 3 operating hours, not a car we were prepared to buy. A wasted journey, but with the benefit of hindsight a narrow escape. Two weeks later we were contacted by the owner of the car who, after our viewing, had managed to find a private buyer for his vehicle. The buyers pre-purchase inspection picked up on an engine rattle, he pulled out of the sale narrowly avoiding a large bill because a week later the inter-gear failed and the engine needed to be rebuilt. We eventually got to the bottom of how ignitions were recorded past the red line. Whilst on a final blast before attempting to sell to ourselves, a moment of indiscretion racing a group of motorbikes saw the limiter exceeded whilst at full throttle down a long steep hill. The incline caused the car to travel faster than it otherwise would have done, the cars momentum taking the engine past its limiter damaging it in the process.

The image below shows the Rev Range print out from the car in question



The print out shows 7904 ignitions recorded at the limiter (Rev range 1). The figure to the right shows when the last incident occurred. In this instance 2262.8 hours.

313 ignitions have been recorded past the limiter (Rev range 2) with the last incident also occurring at 2262.8 hours.

The significance of any over rev can only be fully understood by considering it in relation to the total operating hours for the vehicle. In this instance the car has been used for a total of 2265.7 hours meaning the last rev range 2 activity occurred just 2.9 operating hours ago well inside our suggested 50 hour danger window. We are not able to determine the number of ignitions recorded at this moment as 313 is a cumulative total from new. It could be a single ignition, it could be significantly more but in our mind it would not be worth taking the risk.

Calculating the period of time that a car has spent at the rev limiter can also be of use. Using the example of the 996 Turbo above with a rev range 1 threshold of 6750rpm the following calculation can be used

Number of igntions / 3 = number of engine revolutions



Number of revolutions / by rev limiter = minutes spent at limiter



Minutes spent at limiter x 60 = seconds spent at limiter.



Consequently using the above data.



7904 / 3 = 2634.7



2634.7 / 6750 = 0.39 minutes



0.39 x 60 = 23.4 seconds spent at the limiter as a cumulative total from new

It is not possible to accurately calculate the exact time spent past the limiter in range 2 due to us not knowing the exact engine speed reached on each occasion. We know it to be higher than 6750rpm but we can't be any more accurate than that.

The maximum number of ignitions that can be recorded is 65,535.

An understanding of the significance of Rev Range activity is important but so too is a pragmatic approach. A lack of consistency from the manufacturer has turned the subject topic in to something of a hot potato, all smoke, mirrors and mystique. Despite all this the principles are straightforward and simple to understand. A don't panic but don't dismiss approach best sums up the methodology in respect of our buying process.

We hope this overview has been of some use.
Old 07-20-2016, 09:34 AM
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Atrox
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Aerokit was an expensive option then, but in my search played little if any into the price. It's an either you like it or you don't thing now. I hope you like yellow, that's a lot of yellow! Well optioned car though.

If you can get it under under 50k I'd say your doing good. As KC said prices will start trending down in a few months.
Old 07-20-2016, 10:49 AM
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shanemiller33329
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It's on consignment so lowest the owner would go with dealer making something on car is 54k. I know it's a little higher than the 50k but the way I'm seeing the lowest priced nationally in auto trader with below 50k miles is high 40s like 48-50k stock no aero kit, and with none of the stuff this one has. Like I said I'd probably be putting 3-5k miles a year on the car max, I'm going for looks, with some added power and an occasional track toy so to me this checks all those boxes and uses high quality parts
Old 07-20-2016, 11:30 AM
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If the modifications on the yellow one are what you would do anyways and the car checks out with a third party PPI, go for it. Yellow is rare and with the aero kit even rarer, and it's a great color on these cars, but I am biased :-)
Old 07-20-2016, 11:34 AM
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shanemiller33329
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Anj color isn't my biggest concern but I do like the yellow along with the custom yellow painted console, and 996 gt3 seats with yellow backs. The aero kit looks great and my biggest things for the car is lowering, exhaust, short throw and tuning it. This has all that and more at a good value
Old 07-20-2016, 11:35 AM
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If the car is exactly what you want in every way, then you shouldn't worry about paying a small premium. You would pay more than the difference to make another car into one that is just like it.

Just so long as it checks out.... I would not worry about type 2 overrevs as long as they are not recent and everything else looks good.
Old 07-20-2016, 11:39 AM
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shanemiller33329
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Thanks Chris definitely going to find out when last type 2 over rev was and if semi recent will have the place I'm going to do a ppi at do a block leak down test just so I know
Old 07-20-2016, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by shanemiller33329
Just joined this forum today, looking for some advice as I am currently debating picking up a 2001 Turbo from Champion Porsche down in south florida. It's a yellow one with a nice list of mods (most of which i'd want to do myself if I were to buy a stock one) has 47k miles for 54k. Not sure if this is a good deal as they also have a bone stock with 29k miles for 50k. Both are very clean. What issues should I look for under inspection other than the over revs on the computer (type 3 and higher if i remember correctly). I've owned a 2014 cayman w/pdk before so this is my first 911 i'm considering. Thanks in advance for any advice given.
List of mods/recent work done:
OEM Porsche Aerokit
Billet K16 Turbo Chargers
Bosch 72 LB EV14 Injectors
Tubi Style Exhaust
New Coil Packs
New Oil Lines
New Plugs
Sachs Sport Clutch
New OEM Flywheel
Moton Clubsport Coilover Suspension
Tarret Drop Links
996 GT3 Sport Seats w/ Painted Seat Backs and Deviated Stitching in Yellow
Painted Console
OEM Porsche Short Shifter
Custom Steering Wheel w/ Flat Bottom and Yellow Stitching
Expel Self Healing Clear Bra Full Front Coverage
The yellow car has probably been tracked. That's a lot of mod's to spice up the grocery run.

Look for rubber bits on top of the plastic underbody panels.

I prefer unmodd'd cars but if you are comfortable with the mod's and believe they add to the car then that's your call.

You must also believe then mod's add to the price of the car (the seller certainly does) for the yellow car with 47K miles priced at $54K vs. a stock Turbo with 29K miles for $50K is in my opinion kind of bassackwards.

I'm not market price savvy on Turbos but I know car dealers and you can be sure both cars have considerable margin in their pricing.

A car is worth somewhere between its wholesale/trade-in price and however much someone is willing to pay and however much the seller is willing to let it go for.

My advice is to run the numbers of both cars through a used car web site -- www.nada.com and or www.kbb.com; and see what the wholesale/trade in and private sale and retail sale numbers are.

For the mod'd car there is unlikely any facility to have those accounted for.

Almost certainly the seller has no more in either car than the wholesale/trade-in price.

Yellow is a pretty love it or hate it color. (Personally I like it and looked at a yellow Turbo but it was back in Michigan. My car prior to my Turbo was a speed yellow Cayman S, too.)

And there are the mods and the of usage they strongly suggest the car received.

What to look for?

Everything.

Both cars are just used cars so you have to give either car a thorough used car check out.

Visit the car cold and with teh A/C off turn on the key and verify all warning lights come on then go off when you start the engine. This means the CEL and the airbag light. (I'm fighting an airbag warning light with my Boxster and it is not as straightforward to deal with as one might think.)

BTW, if the clutch pedal is hard to depress -- compared to after you have the engine running -- this is a sign the clutch accumulator is shot. On a related note of you spot fluid stain on top of the plastic panel under the front trunk lid just ahead of the driver that's the clutch fluid reservoir leaking (out a vent hole) and this is a sign the clutch slave cylinder is bad.

Listen to the engine idle. Let it idle. Don't rev the engine as it idles. The idle can be a bit rough but should smooth out as the engine gains heat and when the RPMs drop the engine should be pretty smooth, for a Turbo.

Continue to let the engine idle while you walk around the car checking body panel fit and finish, tire conditon, age, types of tires -- N-rated and all of a factory sanctioned size -- brake rotor condition, etc.

After some minutes of idling then have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride. Teh route should give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it.

The engine should pull nice and hard up through the rev range to near red line and then after an upshift continue to pull hard. Afterwards teh engine should settle down into a nice smooth idle.

If a manual pay attention to the driver. Does he appear to hold the shifter in place. There can be a problem with a manual popping out of 2nd gear.

For a Tip execute a k-turn with the Tip cold when again after it is up to temperature. The Tip should shift between reverse and drive with no drama and no delay.

After the test ride back at the starting point switch seats and take the car out over the same route and drive it the same way.

With the engine/drivetrain up to temperature if you roll up to a stop with the gearbox in neutral and the clutch released and hear a high pitched whistle that's a high pressure relief valve in the power steering tank. You can make the noise go away by depressing the clutch pedal then releasing it. But to cure the noise permanently, the power steering tank has to be replaced in order to replace the valve.

If you hear a knocking sound at the stop light depress teh clutch and release. If the noise is gone that's the tranny just rattling a bit. Normal.

Back at the starting point again then if you like the car give it a thorough used car check out. The check list the techs use when CPO'ing a car is a pretty good list.

Based on my experience.... Check the spoiler hardware for any leak sign. A leak at the spoiler hydraulics can require a new spoiler. (There are some DIY repair write ups you may consider if you are so inclined.)

Use your nose. Any odor of anti-freeze is a leak. The common leak areas are the water pump seals, the coolant tank, and with the Turbo the coolant hose fittings that are epoxied into the block. For tracked cars these seem to fail.

At the front the radiators can be leaking.

After your check out arrange for a PPI. The over rev counters will be read along with the timestamps of the last event and the total engine run time.

With the car in the air then a thorough check can be made for any leak sign. The water pump, coolant tank, the all important engine hose fittings, the camshaft covers, RMS. Don't forget all the transmission seals including the shifter rod seals along side the tranmission. Check the rear and front diff axles flange seals, the CV boots.

Check the power steering lines/couplings at the engine and at the rack.

In short every gasket, seal, o-ring, fitting, hose, hose clamp, dust boot gets checked for any leak sign.

A leak need not be a deal killer you just want to know about it so you can factor the cost to deal with it into your offer.

I don't recall all prices but a new RMS was around $1700. (All prices are dealer prices.) New spoiler hydraulics: $2000. New radiators: $4K. Front diff axle flange seals: $800. New rear view mirror: $300. I can't remember the cost of a new water pump but it is going to be around $1500 I dare say.

My 2003 Turbo has done through 2 sets of idler/tensioner roller bearings in 145K miles. I don't recall what these cost to replace. I've had to replace two radiator fan motors. One suffered a snapped shaft, the other just didn't run right and was drawing a lot more current than the other side.

Remember price is not fact only an opinion.

If you find something wrong with a used car don't be afraid to walk away. There is almost another car.


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