Atrox

How do you accomplish this?

BioBanker

The drainage points are reachable without going under the car. You can jack the car up slightly but you don't need to. If you can put the car at the top of a slope, thereby increasing distance to the ground further, it's even easier. It's a tight reach with two wrenches at the tank, but it's not hard

Carlo_Carrera

My driveway has nice slope to it so I back the car down onto a pair of these.



The car is then almost perfectly level and it gives me easy access to everything underneath. A full oil change is a snap.

Macster

When I changed the oil in my Boxster and Turbo, my GTO and my VW Golf TDi (and briefly Cayman) used Rhino Ramps. I just backed the Porsches up on the ramps and this gave me plenty of room under the car/engine to drain the oil from the crankcase and the oil tank.

The fact the car is not level didn't seem to affect the amount oil drained either.

Early on I did an experiment with my Boxster to see if having the rear end raised affected the amount of oil drained. After draining the oil for a while I jacked up the front of the car -- I had two scissors jacks -- to where the car was level again and this did not result in any more oil draining from the drain hole.

rmc1148

My garage floor is level, I just reach up under the car and loosen drains with pan under. I leave the crankcase plug open while draining oil tank= reduces splatter for me..

Macster

The Turbo is too low and the exhaust too close and too hot -- the engine is supposed to be up to temp when draining the oil -- to risk trying to remove the drain plugs with the car on the ground. Besides I like to use a wrench on the oil tank spigot to prevent twisting the tank so much when removing and installed the tank drain plug.

It took practically no time to get the rear of the car on ramps and afterwards with the extra room I could give the car's underside a good inspection for any signs of trouble.

Carlo_Carrera

You must be quite a svelte fellow. I am pretty thin and then is no way I can squeeze myself under my Turbo.

rmc1148

I'm 6.1 around 230 and have no problems doing oil change as mentioned. I disagree with warm engine scenario but this has been argued to death in other threads. My body does not go under car and can easily reach drains etc and yes I hold tank with wrench.

Carlo_Carrera

Now I get it. Doing it on a cold engine makes all the difference.

rmc1148

Yes huge difference, maybe they should make an x-files episode about me doing it since it seems to take super powers lol.

Montescew

Hey Guys,

I'm still seeing a drip or two of oil after driving the car. I went through my records yesterday and discovered a zero dollar invoice from Porsche the last time this happened and i had to take it back after an oil change.

The invoice states "cleaned and tightened clamps on bank 1 turbo intake pipe". The leak is in the exact same place, i am almost positive the clamp is loose again. Could someone please let me know the exact location of this clamp and if it can be accessed from the top of the engine? I was not sure if this would require a lift. The invoice also states there was a bit of oil in the intake pipe and they cleaned it out. I was not sure if i should remove the entire thing and if i would be capable of doing this without a lift??

Any insight you could offer up would be very much appreciated!

Cheers,

-Rob

Atrox

Take a few photos with the flash from s smart phone. It may take a couple of try's, but the phone being slim should be able to get a view that otherwise is impossible without. Post em up here.

Montescew

Okay, i will do. I took it by a local shop earlier today. I know one of the guys there and he was kind enough to put it up on the lift for inspection. The leak looks to be at the top part of the turbo intake pipe where there is no clamp, but there is a chance it could be coming from the bottom part where there is a clamp. He recommended replacing the pipe and the seal has most likely gone bad.

Is this common? I'm still going to post some pics later this evening or tom morning.

Thanks!

Atrox

Long shot, but do you have crush washers on turbo drain plugs?

Kevin

Here are the logical oil leaks and conditions. All require labor monies to be spend to fix the issue.

1) The checkvalve is leaking is three different locations >>supply line fitting at top, the checkvalve two piece body, or the copper oring.

2) The sump tank is leaking between the flange oring seal and turbocharger bearing housing. This is due to a improper aluminum crush washer, or a failed Viton oring.

3) As Atrox has mentioned, the sump tank PLUG oring crush washer is MISSING (very common)

4) Your turbocharger sealing rings have failed and you need a turbocharger rebuild

5) The cam housing cover is leaking and needs resealed

6) The cam inlet lifter solenoid oring has failed and is leaking down the cam housing cover

7) Heavy combustion blowbye, which is causing high crankcase base pressure, which pushes oil from the main oil reservoir into the intake system. The hose is attached on the drivers side intake plenum. Oil runs down the drives side inlet piping to the turbocharger..

Please note, that a overfilled reservoir will cause this issue. A prolonged smoke show on engine start up will point to this issue...