Dual Mass Flywheel failing - DIY?
#1
Odd Posts
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Dual Mass Flywheel failing - DIY?
So it does indeed seem that I have a dual mass flywheel that has gone bad. Consistent driveline vibration is noted and is most noticed at highway speeds.
According the the book, the time is 25 hours for R&R (strange as the C4S is only 8 hrs) according to my indy. As I am looking at $2K + in parts and another $2.5K + in labour, I am thinking of a DYI.
I would rate my skills as 5 to 6, but I have never tackled this size of project.
Have a heated garage and lift at my disposal.
For the cognoscenti, am I biting off more than I can chew?
According the the book, the time is 25 hours for R&R (strange as the C4S is only 8 hrs) according to my indy. As I am looking at $2K + in parts and another $2.5K + in labour, I am thinking of a DYI.
I would rate my skills as 5 to 6, but I have never tackled this size of project.
Have a heated garage and lift at my disposal.
For the cognoscenti, am I biting off more than I can chew?
#2
you dont need cognoscenti to tell you someone is lying to you about the labor time involved. they must've quoted you to change three of them.
at the risk of stating the obvious? if you can change your clutch, you can swap the dmfw. but it's not the kind of thing to experiment with. but the lift is a headstart cos it ain't gonna happen without that lol.
i changed mine on a rented lift w clutch for 400 bucks and parts plus pollo loco chicken/beer and some pesos, err dollars. 1400 & 200 all in.
at the risk of stating the obvious? if you can change your clutch, you can swap the dmfw. but it's not the kind of thing to experiment with. but the lift is a headstart cos it ain't gonna happen without that lol.
i changed mine on a rented lift w clutch for 400 bucks and parts plus pollo loco chicken/beer and some pesos, err dollars. 1400 & 200 all in.
#3
Drifting
I say take your time and give it a shot if you honestly think its within your skills, if not find a cheaper shop. I haven't done a clutch in my car but have in many others and wouldn't think twice about it.
#5
Three Wheelin'
So it does indeed seem that I have a dual mass flywheel that has gone bad. Consistent driveline vibration is noted and is most noticed at highway speeds.
According the the book, the time is 25 hours for R&R (strange as the C4S is only 8 hrs) according to my indy. As I am looking at $2K + in parts and another $2.5K + in labour, I am thinking of a DYI.
I would rate my skills as 5 to 6, but I have never tackled this size of project.
Have a heated garage and lift at my disposal.
For the cognoscenti, am I biting off more than I can chew?
According the the book, the time is 25 hours for R&R (strange as the C4S is only 8 hrs) according to my indy. As I am looking at $2K + in parts and another $2.5K + in labour, I am thinking of a DYI.
I would rate my skills as 5 to 6, but I have never tackled this size of project.
Have a heated garage and lift at my disposal.
For the cognoscenti, am I biting off more than I can chew?
5/6, do it! The forums are there to help you if in need (especially for clutch fork installation) and the repair manual is also very good. Remember the transmission weight is about 125 pounds (wet) you will need a transmission jack...
#6
Race Director
That quote is very high. Had the RMS done to my 2003 Turbo and the tech (at the dealer) had the tranny out in under 4 hours and back in under 4 hours.
While the flywheel didn't get replaced it had to be removed to get to the RMS then of course reinstalled.
IIRC the cost came to around $1700.
There are some "tricks". One is you have to support the engine. The 1st time my Turbo's tranny was removed to replace the transmission -- under CPO -- the tech used a tall jack/support to hold the engine up. The 2nd time he used a rail that bolted to the rear sway bar mounts to support the engine.
The tech always replaced the needle bearings/seals of the clutch control shaft. To remove these and get these back together again I am told is a pain. "Fiddly" is the word he used to describe the effort necessary.
Also, the tech always replaced the "seals" (metal o-rings IIRC) that seal the turbo housing to the the exhaust manifold. If these are re-used they can leak and cause all sorts of problems.
While the flywheel didn't get replaced it had to be removed to get to the RMS then of course reinstalled.
IIRC the cost came to around $1700.
There are some "tricks". One is you have to support the engine. The 1st time my Turbo's tranny was removed to replace the transmission -- under CPO -- the tech used a tall jack/support to hold the engine up. The 2nd time he used a rail that bolted to the rear sway bar mounts to support the engine.
The tech always replaced the needle bearings/seals of the clutch control shaft. To remove these and get these back together again I am told is a pain. "Fiddly" is the word he used to describe the effort necessary.
Also, the tech always replaced the "seals" (metal o-rings IIRC) that seal the turbo housing to the the exhaust manifold. If these are re-used they can leak and cause all sorts of problems.
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#8
6x60mm long bolt to remove the clutch rod. end cap will likely stay in the bell housing. 28 needle bearings in each cap. don't lose any!. when reinstalling the clutch fork and clutch fork rod will be the biggest challenge. impossible to see anything its all done by feel. use a borescope to help line things up. use electrical tape to keep the fork in place and slide the trans in. slide the rod in with the bolt. use high pressure grease in the caps to keep them in place. once you get the rod in place use an small oring over the end of the locking bolt and tab. this keeps anything from falling into the bell sousing. also drill a small hole into the black plug and screw the bat in for the install. keeps it from falling into the belhousing as well.
its not hard just no room to work and if anything falls into the bell housing and you can't snake it out with a magnet its remove and start over. fwiw the first time i did a clutch in the car it took 10 tries to get the rod in place! you will need new flywheel bolts they are one time use. same for the axle bolts. use a screwdriver with a piece of rubber over it in the rotor holes (the thick section not in-between) to hold the wheel from turning then break the bolts loose. same for reinstall and torque
and theres no need to remove any of the exhaust turbos oil lines . the coolant hoses will drop down enough . or clamp them off and remove the clams
#10
Intermediate
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This info will come in useful. Probably week after next my tranny will come out (box issues). Aside - what else should I be looking at replacing or inspecting carefully once the tranny is out? Clutch was done around 10k miles ago. Total miles around 67k.
#11
plus the rear main seal, since you're in there also. its a 30 dollar large o ring and they are known to leak in varying degrees of intensity over time.
those two, for starters..
#12
pay attention to the rubber seal for the crank sensor. it gets pushed out of the way and can be a real pain to get seated once the trans is back. in. check starter teeth for wear and i would replace any rubber hose i can get my hands on . they deteriorate over time and these cars are seeing a lot of time.
suspension bushings while you are under the car and the guibo if your still awd
suspension bushings while you are under the car and the guibo if your still awd
#13
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off the top of my pre coffee 5 am head.. at the very least check the trans mount. if its original? the 997 trans mount is the superseded part from the 996 and the rubber bits will look like crap if it's original.
plus the rear main seal, since you're in there also. its a 30 dollar large o ring and they are known to leak in varying degrees of intensity over time.
those two, for starters..
plus the rear main seal, since you're in there also. its a 30 dollar large o ring and they are known to leak in varying degrees of intensity over time.
those two, for starters..
pay attention to the rubber seal for the crank sensor. it gets pushed out of the way and can be a real pain to get seated once the trans is back. in. check starter teeth for wear and i would replace any rubber hose i can get my hands on . they deteriorate over time and these cars are seeing a lot of time.
suspension bushings while you are under the car and the guibo if your still awd
suspension bushings while you are under the car and the guibo if your still awd
#14
Rennlist Member
Are you sure that this thing is good?
Driveshaft flex disc “Guibo” - C4 and Turbo
These folks list the OEM Porsche replacement for $85 KO Performance in Florida
http://www.koperformance.com/
Part #: 102539005-57
KO Price: $84.06
Shipping: $0.00 - FREE Shipping! - & *Ship Group
Stock Status: In Stock - Ready to Ship!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Book #: 10 2539 005
Description: Driveshaft Flex Disc
Applications: Carrera 4 99 thru 05
Manufacturer: O.E.M.
__________________
Driveshaft flex disc “Guibo” - C4 and Turbo
These folks list the OEM Porsche replacement for $85 KO Performance in Florida
http://www.koperformance.com/
Part #: 102539005-57
KO Price: $84.06
Shipping: $0.00 - FREE Shipping! - & *Ship Group
Stock Status: In Stock - Ready to Ship!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Book #: 10 2539 005
Description: Driveshaft Flex Disc
Applications: Carrera 4 99 thru 05
Manufacturer: O.E.M.
__________________
#15
Odd Posts
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Thread Starter
After much hemming and hawing... Decided to have my indy do it.
Had to take another project off the lift to do it and frankly I do not really have the time to dedicate to right now. Especially since I would like to drive it to Florida for the holidays...
Had to take another project off the lift to do it and frankly I do not really have the time to dedicate to right now. Especially since I would like to drive it to Florida for the holidays...