Street & Track Pad
#31
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sorry if I'm thread jacking, but I'm considering a 2 day DE with PCA in October. This will be my first time on track with the 996T, I've done a few events with the Audi Club in the past. Since it's my first time on track in this car, at a new track, I think I'll be mostly focused on learning the line and smooth driving. Is the consensus that my stock pads will be OK for this? Not sure I want to spend the $500+ on track specific pads at this point.
#32
My vote is against stock pads for DE days.. Another option for Street & Track Pads are Carbotechs. I use them in the dedicated race car, trips to the grocery store in the 996TT and on the track for DE days.. Small amount of noise but not too bad.
#33
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I've heard good things about those, which ones are you running?
#34
Nordschleife Master
Are you needing to trail brake to the point of lock-up to get the front end to bite in corners?
I/my GT2 have no issue with understeer the way it's setup. Adding rear bias allows me to brake later and deeper, I do not need heavy trail braking to rotate the car-a light dab will always bring in a loose front as will using the throttle...
Again, everyone's car and driving is different, use what you like
I/my GT2 have no issue with understeer the way it's setup. Adding rear bias allows me to brake later and deeper, I do not need heavy trail braking to rotate the car-a light dab will always bring in a loose front as will using the throttle...
Again, everyone's car and driving is different, use what you like
Slow in vs Fast in. I see what your saying about the later braking, the extra rear bias would stabilize the car in really deep hard braking, this is what I earlier called ploughing since I am used to a another driving style. With my cars setup sorta ploughs neutrally under acceleration where are your setup probably rotates more under acceleration.
#35
Yessir! absolutely!
Mine is very much oriented/setup towards neutral/oversteer in its 'natural' balance, works great when the tires work with you, but will need to soften my rear swaybar up a bit if using 'street' tires at track(Hoping more 'streetable' 315 sized DOT-R's are brought to market ...I'm bugging Tirerack about getting RT615K's), can't get nearly enough power down through the exit. Kinda drive like an oversized kart, great for technical tracks like TMP but needs more stability(a little more rear toe or less sway)/tire for faster tracks Mosport etc.
Car is very stable under braking and upon release/transition as well; car works extremely well but my current Pirelli's completely let it down...going back to DOT-R next round on-
Mine is very much oriented/setup towards neutral/oversteer in its 'natural' balance, works great when the tires work with you, but will need to soften my rear swaybar up a bit if using 'street' tires at track(Hoping more 'streetable' 315 sized DOT-R's are brought to market ...I'm bugging Tirerack about getting RT615K's), can't get nearly enough power down through the exit. Kinda drive like an oversized kart, great for technical tracks like TMP but needs more stability(a little more rear toe or less sway)/tire for faster tracks Mosport etc.
Car is very stable under braking and upon release/transition as well; car works extremely well but my current Pirelli's completely let it down...going back to DOT-R next round on-
GT2 and Turbo cars probably differ as well as even a cars suspension setup and mods between similar models would differ. I've gotten used to driving with a neutral with tad understeer setup. Rotating the car with brake force in tighter corners, rather then rotating it coming off the brake and using throttle. That way when I get on throttle I can hit it full and not have to modulate throttle to prevent more chance of rotation since I have all ready rotated the car prior to getting on the throttle.
Slow in vs Fast in. I see what your saying about the later braking, the extra rear bias would stabilize the car in really deep hard braking, this is what I earlier called ploughing since I am used to a another driving style. With my cars setup sorta ploughs neutrally under acceleration where are your setup probably rotates more under acceleration.
Slow in vs Fast in. I see what your saying about the later braking, the extra rear bias would stabilize the car in really deep hard braking, this is what I earlier called ploughing since I am used to a another driving style. With my cars setup sorta ploughs neutrally under acceleration where are your setup probably rotates more under acceleration.
#36
I think I'll go with stock pads for my first time since I don't plan to DE regularly, probably once a year at most. If I start doing them more, I'll get different pads.
#37
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input and good point about having at least 50% left. I have a second set of stock front pads that have more than 50% so I'll bring those along in case and will def be flushing the brake fluid. Smoltz, I'm thinking of doing the event at Palmer, I keep hearing great things and the layout looks amazing!
#38
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Are you needing to trail brake to the point of lock-up to get the front end to bite in corners?
I/my GT2 have no issue with understeer the way it's setup. Adding rear bias allows me to brake later and deeper, I do not need heavy trail braking to rotate the car-a light dab will always bring in a loose front as will using the throttle...
Again, everyone's car and driving is different, use what you like
I/my GT2 have no issue with understeer the way it's setup. Adding rear bias allows me to brake later and deeper, I do not need heavy trail braking to rotate the car-a light dab will always bring in a loose front as will using the throttle...
Again, everyone's car and driving is different, use what you like
The reason I run the same pads front and rear on my car is because I take a lot of passes on the inside line heading into corners. In those instances with that compromised entry line I heavy trail brake and steer all the way to the apex and then get on the power as normal. This technique compromises my cornering and exit speeds very little. So the car that is now behind me stays behind me. Having the same pads front and rear allowed me to do that without the possible risk of the rear locking up and stepping out.
I have no issue with you setting up your car by accentuating the rear brake bias by using more aggressive pads back there. That technique works very well for a lot of great drivers. My only issue was with you saying that the aggressive rear pads aid the front grip. Which is mostly incorrect. More aggressive rear pads are actually taking away some potential front cornering grip achievable from maximum trail braking.
#39
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Where do you purchase the CarbonTech pads?
#40
I disagree, you are correct the 997 has less forward bias but imo the 996 is perfect. I prefer the forward bias on the 996. I do a lot of my turning under trail braking. It allows quicker rotation under braking. The 997 plows under braking and transitions more slowly. Plus I think it has more rear bias because of the traction control. This allows the electronics much more ability in brake manipulation.
That pad combo will wear the rear rotor really quickly and the rear rotor will really need to be upgraded to something larger to take the pad abuse.
That pad combo will wear the rear rotor really quickly and the rear rotor will really need to be upgraded to something larger to take the pad abuse.
#41
#42
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#43
Rennlist Member
Didn't mean to start an off topic discussion on brake bias, but sure learned a lot and sounds like driving style dictates pad selection to a large extent. Thanks for the lesson!
Drew
Drew
#44
Nordschleife Master
But keep in mind and check the list of mods powdrhound cars has, in no way or shape does it resemble a stock 996tt other then looks.