996TT for Street \ Track Use
#46
Rennlist Member
Thanks everyone for the input. I know that I have a lot to learn as a driver, and I know that I'm not getting the most out of the car, and that driver improvement is the best investment, but having owned 30+ cars, I also know that this car stock, even on the street doesn't seem as fun (for me personally) to drive as my GT-R, my C6 vette, my Challenge Stradale, my E90 M3. Part of getting out on the track is to improve skill, but part of it is also having fun.
Just trying to figure out if this is the platform I want to continue on (either stock for a while or with a few mods to make it a bit more enjoyable), or if an E46 M3 or a C5 Z06 is a better fit for me, more fun per dollar, less on the line should something happen.
When comparing the cost of running the 996TT to say either of the above cars, harnesses and safety gear and brake upgrades are all roughly the same in my mind, but I don't need to weld the coolant lines on an M3 or Z06 and the suspension upgrades for either of those cars (in particular the Z06) seem less costly. I guess I'm a sucker for naturally aspirated engines too at the end of the day.
Just trying to figure out if this is the platform I want to continue on (either stock for a while or with a few mods to make it a bit more enjoyable), or if an E46 M3 or a C5 Z06 is a better fit for me, more fun per dollar, less on the line should something happen.
When comparing the cost of running the 996TT to say either of the above cars, harnesses and safety gear and brake upgrades are all roughly the same in my mind, but I don't need to weld the coolant lines on an M3 or Z06 and the suspension upgrades for either of those cars (in particular the Z06) seem less costly. I guess I'm a sucker for naturally aspirated engines too at the end of the day.
#48
given your car list, you have a few dollars to play with...install a set of decent coilovers, a decent track seat, decent set of tires and have it aligned to GT2/Kussmaul settings...low investment and will tell you if you like the car, and worst case is the next owner will thoroughly enjoy it.
I won't impress many here, but, stock N.A. 996tt seats and springs/shocks are horrible... ride/handling quality is just weird and seats don't do any favours to controlling the car...
both M3's and Z06's have their share of catastrophic issues, pin/weld the pipes and avoid the Mezger's main issue
I won't impress many here, but, stock N.A. 996tt seats and springs/shocks are horrible... ride/handling quality is just weird and seats don't do any favours to controlling the car...
both M3's and Z06's have their share of catastrophic issues, pin/weld the pipes and avoid the Mezger's main issue
Thanks everyone for the input. I know that I have a lot to learn as a driver, and I know that I'm not getting the most out of the car, and that driver improvement is the best investment, but having owned 30+ cars, I also know that this car stock, even on the street doesn't seem as fun (for me personally) to drive as my GT-R, my C6 vette, my Challenge Stradale, my E90 M3. Part of getting out on the track is to improve skill, but part of it is also having fun.
Just trying to figure out if this is the platform I want to continue on (either stock for a while or with a few mods to make it a bit more enjoyable), or if an E46 M3 or a C5 Z06 is a better fit for me, more fun per dollar, less on the line should something happen.
When comparing the cost of running the 996TT to say either of the above cars, harnesses and safety gear and brake upgrades are all roughly the same in my mind, but I don't need to weld the coolant lines on an M3 or Z06 and the suspension upgrades for either of those cars (in particular the Z06) seem less costly. I guess I'm a sucker for naturally aspirated engines too at the end of the day.
Just trying to figure out if this is the platform I want to continue on (either stock for a while or with a few mods to make it a bit more enjoyable), or if an E46 M3 or a C5 Z06 is a better fit for me, more fun per dollar, less on the line should something happen.
When comparing the cost of running the 996TT to say either of the above cars, harnesses and safety gear and brake upgrades are all roughly the same in my mind, but I don't need to weld the coolant lines on an M3 or Z06 and the suspension upgrades for either of those cars (in particular the Z06) seem less costly. I guess I'm a sucker for naturally aspirated engines too at the end of the day.
#49
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'd say sell the TT and look for a 996 GT3. There would be much less mods to do on one of these cars to make it track suitable, and you have an absolutely intoxicating engine sound. It won't be as nice of a street car as the TT however. I got tired of the GT3 in the heavy Orlando traffic. That clutch is a workout! I now have a Spyder on order. This will give me the wonderful NA engine along with daily driving comfort.
#50
Thanks everyone for the input. I know that I have a lot to learn as a driver, and I know that I'm not getting the most out of the car, and that driver improvement is the best investment, but having owned 30+ cars, I also know that this car stock, even on the street doesn't seem as fun (for me personally) to drive as my GT-R, my C6 vette, my Challenge Stradale, my E90 M3. Part of getting out on the track is to improve skill, but part of it is also having fun.
Just trying to figure out if this is the platform I want to continue on (either stock for a while or with a few mods to make it a bit more enjoyable), or if an E46 M3 or a C5 Z06 is a better fit for me, more fun per dollar, less on the line should something happen.
When comparing the cost of running the 996TT to say either of the above cars, harnesses and safety gear and brake upgrades are all roughly the same in my mind, but I don't need to weld the coolant lines on an M3 or Z06 and the suspension upgrades for either of those cars (in particular the Z06) seem less costly. I guess I'm a sucker for naturally aspirated engines too at the end of the day.
Just trying to figure out if this is the platform I want to continue on (either stock for a while or with a few mods to make it a bit more enjoyable), or if an E46 M3 or a C5 Z06 is a better fit for me, more fun per dollar, less on the line should something happen.
When comparing the cost of running the 996TT to say either of the above cars, harnesses and safety gear and brake upgrades are all roughly the same in my mind, but I don't need to weld the coolant lines on an M3 or Z06 and the suspension upgrades for either of those cars (in particular the Z06) seem less costly. I guess I'm a sucker for naturally aspirated engines too at the end of the day.
Even then, and even with the 030 suspension, mine would understeer on corner entry if I didn't routinely trailbrake her in. AWD 996 Turbos also understeer on the way out but that is just a matter of aiming a yard or so inside your intended trackout point and then letting the loud pedal carry her out there. If you're still not happy with her speed and are used to handling analog cars, disable PSM (completely if you're really keen, or else just push the dash button).
And if you're still feeling a bit slow after that, drop a grand into her for another 50 odd hp and 80+ ft-lbs of torque out of a tune from someone like UMW. Then if beemers are still bugging you on track after that, throw her a spare set of wheels with Hankook Ventus TD Z221s on (softs if money matters less than speed). Tires make the biggest difference but together you're looking at about 4 or 5 seconds a minute lap faster with the above, and a much more involving drive.
Again, I'd at least urge you to check your alignment and give her another track run before waving her off.
#51
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm on ROW 030 suspension but have always loved my 996T on track and in the twisties. Before giving up on yours I would very strongly urge you to just get a more aggressive alignment if you haven't done so. Max camber, 2mm per side toe OUT at the front, about 3mm per side toe IN at the rear will bring out the sports car character to the fore rather than the GT.
Even then, and even with the 030 suspension, mine would understeer on corner entry if I didn't routinely trailbrake her in. AWD 996 Turbos also understeer on the way out but that is just a matter of aiming a yard or so inside your intended trackout point and then letting the loud pedal carry her out there. If you're still not happy with her speed and are used to handling analog cars, disable PSM (completely if you're really keen, or else just push the dash button).
And if you're still feeling a bit slow after that, drop a grand into her for another 50 odd hp and 80+ ft-lbs of torque out of a tune from someone like UMW. Then if beemers are still bugging you on track after that, throw her a spare set of wheels with Hankook Ventus TD Z221s on (softs if money matters less than speed). Tires make the biggest difference but together you're looking at about 4 or 5 seconds a minute lap faster with the above, and a much more involving drive.
Again, I'd at least urge you to check your alignment and give her another track run before waving her off.
Even then, and even with the 030 suspension, mine would understeer on corner entry if I didn't routinely trailbrake her in. AWD 996 Turbos also understeer on the way out but that is just a matter of aiming a yard or so inside your intended trackout point and then letting the loud pedal carry her out there. If you're still not happy with her speed and are used to handling analog cars, disable PSM (completely if you're really keen, or else just push the dash button).
And if you're still feeling a bit slow after that, drop a grand into her for another 50 odd hp and 80+ ft-lbs of torque out of a tune from someone like UMW. Then if beemers are still bugging you on track after that, throw her a spare set of wheels with Hankook Ventus TD Z221s on (softs if money matters less than speed). Tires make the biggest difference but together you're looking at about 4 or 5 seconds a minute lap faster with the above, and a much more involving drive.
Again, I'd at least urge you to check your alignment and give her another track run before waving her off.
I just aligned the car two weeks ago, max I could get from front was .3 degrees on factory US suspension. :-( Was at zero though and could definitely feel the difference when I got out there after.
Lots of good advice on this thread though and I am going to stick with this car, get more instruction, make a few adjustments and see where I land.
#53
Thanks for the input.
I just aligned the car two weeks ago, max I could get from front was .3 degrees on factory US suspension. :-( Was at zero though and could definitely feel the difference when I got out there after.
Lots of good advice on this thread though and I am going to stick with this car, get more instruction, make a few adjustments and see where I land.
I just aligned the car two weeks ago, max I could get from front was .3 degrees on factory US suspension. :-( Was at zero though and could definitely feel the difference when I got out there after.
Lots of good advice on this thread though and I am going to stick with this car, get more instruction, make a few adjustments and see where I land.
And, yes, if you still want more track focus after that, then KWv3s or Ohlins Road and Track (the better allrounder) suspension will take you further again.
#55
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If\when engine comes out to weld coolant lines, will be doing trans and motor mounts. I think I'll go 964RS motor, not sure about trans.
#56
As far as alignment goes, you should be able to get closer to -0.8 to -1.0 of camber in the front with stock components. Once you lower the car with coil overs, you will be able to crank in about -1.5 or slightly more depending on lowering. Even that is very mild. I run -3.5º in the front and -2.5º in the rear. Front total toe is 0.04' and rear total toe is 0.30'.
#57
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Stick with the latest generation OEM 997TT/GT2/GT3 mount Adam. It's very good especially when paired with the 964RS engine mounts. I've tried various of the aftermarket urethane transmission mounts and all you really gain is noise. Not worth it unless you have a 100% use track car.
As far as alignment goes, you should be able to get closer to -0.8 to -1.0 of camber in the front with stock components. Once you lower the car with coil overs, you will be able to crank in about -1.5 or slightly more depending on lowering. Even that is very mild. I run -3.5º in the front and -2.5º in the rear. Front total toe is 0.04' and rear total toe is 0.30'.
As far as alignment goes, you should be able to get closer to -0.8 to -1.0 of camber in the front with stock components. Once you lower the car with coil overs, you will be able to crank in about -1.5 or slightly more depending on lowering. Even that is very mild. I run -3.5º in the front and -2.5º in the rear. Front total toe is 0.04' and rear total toe is 0.30'.
Yeah, I was surprised it was only -.3, the shop I brought it to is a place I haven't had much luck with historically but they are close by and have a good reputation. I told them I wanted max, they got -0.3, I told them that they should have been able to get more, went back and forth with them a little, but ultimately just paid the bill and left.
I have a buddy with an alignment rack though, may bring the car down there and do it myself and see if I can get more out of it.
#58
Rennlist Member
Mine is a heavily modified 02' X50 (GT3 leather buckets, 6-point harness, UMW tune, UMW turbos, Speedtech X-flow exhaust, GT3 front and rear sway bars and links, heavy springs, Moton CS suspension, Girodisc slotted rotors, Pagids all around, Castrol SRF, GT3 LWFW, solid tranny and motor supports, trick short-ratio tranny with Porsche Motorsports parts and GT2 style oil cooler, etc...).
My car is faster that a 997.1 GT3 RS on track, can give a GT2RS a very decent run for it's money (similar experience drivers). The driver is the key element here. At COTA last year I lapped a 2013 McLaren MP4-12C. On my 13 y/o car.
For those who don't track your Turbo, trust me, you'll NEVER quite realize their true potential.
My car is faster that a 997.1 GT3 RS on track, can give a GT2RS a very decent run for it's money (similar experience drivers). The driver is the key element here. At COTA last year I lapped a 2013 McLaren MP4-12C. On my 13 y/o car.
For those who don't track your Turbo, trust me, you'll NEVER quite realize their true potential.
#60
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Bone stock 996TTs have done 7:50ish around the Ring.