Whew that was a close one... Alternator on the fritz?
05-23-2015, 03:47 PM
#16
Drifting
I agree about OEM price but was making an observation by pricing on vender site. Yes also believe bosch is original maker which makes the pricing all the more out of whack.
05-24-2015, 12:14 AM
#17
Drifting
Very often voltage issues in these cars are due to deterioration with age of the various heavy duty cables in the starter/ charging system.
I'm surprised that Ahsai has not arrived to save the day yet, but in the absence o f his more exhaustive test there is one simply test which may give a good indication as to whether there is a fault in the eart cable or not. Using a voltmeter and with the headlights on, check the voltage between the jump starter post in the engine bay and alternately the engine and the chassis. Repeat the test a number of tests to ensure consistency.
If both are the same and low there is a problem either with the alternator or the section of Y cable between the alternator and the starter post. Further, more detailed investigation is required.
If the starter post to engine voltage is significantly greater than the post to chassis voltage, there is a problem with the engine to chassis earthing.
If the post to engine and post to chassis voltages are the same and at an acceptable level, then there is an issue between the starter post and the battery.
The above test takes around a minute to carry out using test points which are easily accessed. If the results are inconclusive using this method, Ahsai has documented are more focused set of tests elsewhere on this forum.
I'm surprised that Ahsai has not arrived to save the day yet, but in the absence o f his more exhaustive test there is one simply test which may give a good indication as to whether there is a fault in the eart cable or not. Using a voltmeter and with the headlights on, check the voltage between the jump starter post in the engine bay and alternately the engine and the chassis. Repeat the test a number of tests to ensure consistency.
If both are the same and low there is a problem either with the alternator or the section of Y cable between the alternator and the starter post. Further, more detailed investigation is required.
If the starter post to engine voltage is significantly greater than the post to chassis voltage, there is a problem with the engine to chassis earthing.
If the post to engine and post to chassis voltages are the same and at an acceptable level, then there is an issue between the starter post and the battery.
The above test takes around a minute to carry out using test points which are easily accessed. If the results are inconclusive using this method, Ahsai has documented are more focused set of tests elsewhere on this forum.
05-31-2015, 06:50 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hey everyone,
Just wanted to give you an update. I finally have the Turbo back on the road! It certainly was the alternator. This was my first time really digging into the top of the engine. Couple of headaches and lessons learned whilst completing the repair, but overall it went well. I am only into the whole repair for $288 so that is a pretty great win right there. I went ahead and replaced the serpentine belt as well while I had everything apart. I had some difficulty getting it back on, but once I put the belt on all of the major pulleys and then attached it right at the tensioner I was able to finally get it fitted. I started the car up and I got 13.87 Volts on the battery and a proper voltage reading on the dash. No more alternator light. See below for some of the repair shots.
Thank you to everyone that responded!
Just wanted to give you an update. I finally have the Turbo back on the road! It certainly was the alternator. This was my first time really digging into the top of the engine. Couple of headaches and lessons learned whilst completing the repair, but overall it went well. I am only into the whole repair for $288 so that is a pretty great win right there. I went ahead and replaced the serpentine belt as well while I had everything apart. I had some difficulty getting it back on, but once I put the belt on all of the major pulleys and then attached it right at the tensioner I was able to finally get it fitted. I started the car up and I got 13.87 Volts on the battery and a proper voltage reading on the dash. No more alternator light. See below for some of the repair shots.
Thank you to everyone that responded!
05-31-2015, 07:40 PM
#20
!["02996ttx50's Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23759d7b' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
... why i say just change out the alternator. its fine to test the vr? but damn, if the vr is going? how far behind is the ( 600$! ) alt, connected to the same dang part!?
nice pic btw. sure looked like my last failed alt did
nice pic btw. sure looked like my last failed alt did
