"02996ttx50

again 40 is lucky. take it. 75k miles? $40k..

and not for nothin, there was an advantage to my allowing my ins co to pay me out and allow my ins co to seek their compensation from the at fault parties carrier. insofar as i was paid out nearly instantly, and hassle free without ANY need for haggling and my attorney handled me ( and my passengers ) medical expenses and pain and suffering etc. none of which has accrued negatively to my driving record or rates.

kalyan

Dumb question: If it costs insurance company $35k to fix the car, why would they want to total the car and pay $40k or even $36k?

Baumer1: Since this is summer, the prices have been kind of going up. So, the market value for your car would be higher. Hope you get the max value from the ins co.

"02996ttx50

they just make more parting it out.

Macster

That $25K estimate will go up as the repairs advance, if the repairs are done at all.

I'm not sure what the insurance company will allow for the car. My only experience was with my 4 week old Cayman S. The report was pages thick and it covered every thing from paint condition to windshield condition to the condition of the floor mats. Because the car was new everything was rated at the top of the scale.

Your job is to push for a good report. You have a good start with your record keeping of your servicing.

Be sure to note how few of these cars were manufactured and how the remaining good cars were getting fewer in number.

I'm not too sure there'll be all that much money to be made from the car.

For my 4 week old Cayman S I was allowed $17,300 for the car by the other driver's insurance company. (The other driver didn't have enough insurance so I kept the car, but planned on selling it -- not parting it out -- as soon as I could.) But before accepting this amount I contacted Oklahoma Foreign and spoke with someone there who asked I take a series of pictures which I did and sent to him (via email). I think I included other things maybe a pic of the original window sticker. He came back after a while -- the next day maybe I can't recall now -- with the same price as the insurance company offered me.

I accepted the car and after the salvage title arrived I had the car taken to a big auto auction faciity where I was allowed to offer the car for sale via auction at the facility's weekly salvage car auction. The car went for $20.7K.

The only undamaged body panels were the passenger side door, passenger side rear quarter panel, roof, hatch and rear bumper cover. The two front wheels were ruined along with the tires, and the front suspension and steering was destroyed along with brakes, headlights, condensers, radiators, and all the hardware there. The interior was messed up. The driver's side air bag ruined the steering wheel when it deployed and the passenger air bag destroyed the dash when it went off. The seat belt pre-tensioners fired and the belts were useless afterwards.

The tub at least the front part was severely twisted out of position and the driver's side A pillar was pushed out of position

The engine/drivetrain only had 2200 miles on it. But hard to believe these would have fetched anywhere near the $17K I was quoted and certainly not the $20.7K I sold the car for. (The buyers had the plan of repairing the car and putting it back on the road, but I found the car a while back online for sale for $300, unfinished.)

Ephraim

Resurrecting this thread as my 2002 996tt got rear ended in Atlanta two weeks ago. I was at a full stop in downtown rush hour traffic and got hit hard enough to be pushed into/under SUV in front of me. The rear damage doesn't look quite as bad as the OP but the car also has front damage. This thread answered several questions, and plans, I had with handling it. (Seems like there is viable DV claim, I want it on a Celette, it is already at a Porsche certified collision center, I'm going through the guy who hit me's insurance).

One thing I was curious about is paint work. The obvious damage includes both bumper covers and a new hood. When these parts go on how can it be done so there is a match with the rest of the car (and it's 15 year old paint)? Would the entire car need to be repainted?

s65e90

Bumper covers are of a diff material than the rest of the car and are usually not even painted at the same plant when new so there is always a slight variance. The shop will blend the fenders though cause the hood is being painted so there should be no issue of matching. They will make sure it's done properly. Remember too, just because a shop is P car certified doesn't mean they are any good.

Macster

What was done when my 2003 Turbo hit a mule deer in 2009 was a new front bumper cover, front trunk lid, passenger side front fender were all ordered from the factory. These came primered.

The shop used the same paint the factory used. (There are 3: Standox, Spies-Hecker, and Glasurit.) My body shop buddy told me this ensures -- this is for arctic silver -- the metal flake flakes are the right size and shape as the original paint. He said however the orientation the metal flake assumes once the paint is applied depends upon a number of factors and it is the shop's experience/expertise that results in a paint that is pretty much indistiguishable from factory.

The new body parts are prepared -- I do not know what this involved per se -- and then painted in a paint booth and allowed to dry/cure.

Undamaged body panels adjacent to the ones that were damaged also needed painting to blend in. The car was stripped as and the rubber weather stripping was removed or tied back prior to painting. The original body painted surfaces were prepped and the these panels painted.

The final outcome was prettty good. When walking up to the car from various directions in different lighting I can't see any difference between the new panels and their paint and the original panels next to the new panels. Very experienced body shop people can spot some paint work has been done. One particular instance the guy -- at a dealer -- spotted right away the 3 body parts that were not "original". When I asked him how he could tell he said it was the absence of the typical Porsche factory paint orange peel.

Do not underestimate the damage the rear hit did to the back of the car. The repair shop will have to remove bumper covers, running gear, and get the car on the Celette bench and check for tub/chassis damage. Additionally all the rest of the hardware at the rear: engine, engine mounts, transmission, transmission mounts, exhaust system, everything will be have to be checked for damage which may be sublte but important to properly address. To do this properly might require the engine and transmission be removed so various hardpoints associated with these items can be confirmed to be in the right position when the car is on the Celette bench.

911mhawk

What are the specs of your car?
This plays a lot in determining if you are made whole or hole.

Speaking of which, the title of this thread made me think answer should be, ohhh, I don't know, maybe a DP conversion?

Mtrboatvr6

I was hit (rear ended) by an SUV last summer, and chronicled my "journey" to being back whole with the car. Long and the short, it was about $9k for the repair, and the insurance company settled with me on a DV claim for an extra $5k. So they were in it for about $14k all told. When you look at the pictures it just looks like it needed the bumper cover buffed...but boy do these cars hide damage well. Not to mention they are built like a brick **** house :-) The car is back and better than ever. I actually drive it even more now that im not scared of it being a garage queen value car. Just goes to show that sometimes one really can take lemons and make some lemonade. Here is my thread below, I tried to put as much info about my ordeal as possible to help someone in the same situation. Hope you are ok!

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo-forum/947666-50k-miles-and-surprise.html

Dock

Performance Auto Collision in Alpharetta is a really good shop.