obskein

Pretty much what it says really. I changed my oil today and it felt like more oil came out of the secondary bladder (the vertical one) then the main drain (the horizontal one).

Does anyone know how much oil comes out the main drain (the horizontal central one), how much oil from the secondary drain (the vertical one which has oil come out like an oil tankers gone aground), and how much comes out of the turbo bladders?

More out of curiosity than anything else. A 'why' for bonus points

Does it change if you do one before the others?

I had my 'aaaagh I'm covered in bees (oil)' baptism today as I didn't have the column drain close enough to the drain point so I got freaking drenched. Yay kitty litter. Yay degreaser mop. I think I'm part of the club now

Dock

Each turbo = not much
Crankcase = quite a bit
The oil tank = A whole lot

rmc1148

Love it Dock!

obskein

Is that metric or imperial?

Seriously tho... Is it like 2 quarts in the crank case to 6 quarts in the Oil tank? I feel like that's what it's like but I wonder if anyone ever measured it...

Macster

Really it doesn't matter unless you get an estimated 6 quarts from the crankcase drain hole and 2 quarts from the tanks's drain hole.

What matters is the oil be hot enough before drained and one way to know if it is hot enough is if you can take an oil level reading and the oil drains allowed to drain oil for IIRC 20 minutes.

Then you button everything back up and dump in -- from the factory manual but it might be different for your car -- 7.8l.

Then after a bit of a wait you start the engine and let it idle again until the fresh oil is hot enough to take a measurement -- which should take long as the hot engine will heat the fresh oil very quickly -- and the oil level reading should be full, but not over full, nor down even one line below the full (or max) line.

Kevin

Macster, it's just not worth the risk of burns. There are many shops that have to drain the oil luke warm or cold. Customer cars sit out in the parking lot, and then get driven in. With the dry sump system most of the oil is in the main reservoir sump tank. If the car was driven or started within a few hours > you can find 1.5 to 2 quarts in the engine case.

If you let the car drain over night with the plugs out, you can get close to 9 quarts out of these engine. Vario cam modules, heat exchanger, lifters will shed more oil.

32krazy!

had a motor siting for over 2 weeks. avg temp outside is 80* and got the same out of the motor approx 2 qt.. a good 6+ out of the tank. no need to scald yourself

"02996ttx50

i always get 8 from a dump also, and add 8, and then add to taste once at OP temp to measure but i'm also a believer in a warm motor drain.
i dont drain the turbos.

rmc1148

I drain mine cold with car having sat in place for 24hrs or more as I believe I get a better/fuller drain. I leave plugs out until no drip remains usually one hour or so.

Atrox

What's the best resource for filters and crush washers? I've seen the Ecs kit, but I can find oil cheaper. Although I like the ease of that kit.

rmc1148

Amazon has HIX/Porsche OEM filters etc for cheaper usually. Krazy on 6spd buys his for cheap on flea bay. I use ecs kit since I only change oil once a year the price isn't important.

Dock

"Southern" measurement.

Dock

I normally have the car fairly level when I change my oil; fronts on ramps and the rear on jack stands. I also normally wait for each oil drain point to slow to just drips prior to closing up the hole. I put eight quarts in and the resulting electronic oil level reading is at the top of the normal band. My last oil change (last week) I just put the rear up on jack stands (no front ramps) and I drained all locations until there were essentially no drips at all coming out (it took quite awhile). I put in my normal eight quarts of oil and the electronic measurement was two bars down. It appears that the angle of the car and the more thorough draining may be why I was able to remove more oil than I normally do.

Macster

Well, if owners are going to service their cars they ought to do it right and to do it right requires dealing with hot fluids and is part of the job.

With a tracking/monitoring device in my cars -- which depending upon which I have installed lets me track the car in real time via a web site -- every time I have taken the car in for an oil/filter service the tech warms the engine up -- idling -- and then changes the oil then rewarms the engine again -- idling -- and I'm sure to confirm the hot oil level is correct.

In fact curious about this idling business and prompted to ask the tech about this, this is what i was told.

When I changed my own oil this is what I did. I used mechanics rubber (?) gloves to protect against the heat. The techs use these gloves, too.

I tried to do the job like the techs did when I watched. They just let the drain plug (or filter housing) fall to the drain pan catch basin where there was that plastic mesh like material to catch the hardware, but of course, open enough to let the oil drain through. The problem was my drain setup didn't have the mesh and the drain plug could in fact plug the drain hole from the bottom of the sloped drain catch basin to the pan proper -- which in fact it did once, IIRC the first time when I changed my Boxster's oil -- and made a big mess as the oil overflowed the catch basin and ran out on the garage floor. So I use the gloves and slowly unscrew the drain plug and once it is loose quickly pull it away and let the oil flow.

I get a bit of oil on my gloved hand but not enough to burn.

For the Boxster oil filter housing I carefully unscrew it and then without tipping it any move it to a clean drain pan.

For the Turbo I just unscrew it and get it into a pan while trying to avoid dribbling oil all over everything as I get it into a small catch pan.

There are two critical things accomplished with an oil/filter service. One is the oil (and filter) are replaced which is important for obvious reasons. Two is the electronic oil level system is confirmed to be working.

In almost all cases of an owner doing his own oil change the 2nd doesn't get done. In fact, the owner probably relies upon the electronic oil level system to check the amount of oil in the engine which if the thing is misbehaving could have the owner dumping in too much oil, or worse, siphoning/removing what he believes to be too much oil if the thing indicates the oil level is too high.

Dock

Does a Porsche service manual state that to "do it right" the oil is required to be "hot"?

My personal opinion is that the temperature of the oil only affects the rate with which the oil drains. Anyone in a hurry to do an oil change (dealers?) will benefit from oil that is higher in temperature as they can get the job done quicker. If someone wanted to wait long enough for the draining, they could likely get enough oil out of a stone cold engine to make the oil change completely effective.

I see no reason to risk burns when changing the oil.

I personally keep sufficient pressure on the particular drain plug until I feel the threads "click", indicating the plug is completely unthreaded. Very little to no oil comes out during this process. I then quickly remove the plug in one fast motion. I get very little (to no) oil on my gloved hand.

As for parts clogging up my oil catch pan; it doesn't happen because: 1) I don't let parts drop in the catch pan, and 2) my catch pan is just an open catch pan, and if for some reason a part fell into it, it would just sit on the bottom without causing any problems.