rmc1148

I guess I'm past the point of needing or wanting to use desperation as a bargaining tool= I want a good car that is well kept with records and decent miles. I also put myself in the sellers shoes and to be honest get tired of the very owners of these cars promoting lowballing.

Ck986

If you're selling a car that has power train issues you should accept to be ready to deal. If there is nothing wrong with the car then the buyer will have less/no leverage. Every car no matter the condition will have a buyer at the right price.

I almost bought a car in Texas with 9k miles for $46k, put a deposit down, but turned out the ppi was not clean so I backed away as the seller wouldn't budge. I called a week later and they said they sold it for $42. I told them that was my counter offer and wish they would have called me when they decided to drop the price.

Atrox

What specs in particular would be helpful. Have quote for alt at $750, the noise appears to be a bearing, so I'm not sure if that warrants a diff replacement at this point. Autobahn porsche will be going over the car tomorrow to address bearing noise. Car is priced right and to expect to get this car any cheaper would put it at around 35k with deducting said repairs. This car is right at 60k miles and heavily optioned. I drove/rode in the car and was impressed by its condition at face value. The seller isn't out to pull a fast one and is genuinely concerned where he wasn't prior to ppi. I would be 4th owner and car has lived in Texas and Kansas for its lifespan. 60,000 porsche maint was performed a few months ago and neither one of these issues were noticed (does porsche conduct involved inspections at time of 60,000 sched. Maint).

rmc1148

Lowballing is suggested on every car that someone asks about including cars with great histories and clean ppis. Most of the comments are by people that had low budgets to work with and or looking to buy a project. To suggest low ball offers on a car that you currently own is ridiculous. I really don't know why I bother its just a different class of owner that comes when a car hits the bottom of the value curve. Its time for me to consider another car lol.

Atrox

Great point. I set my budget at 50k and feel like I have options in that spectrum. I'm not expecting to find an immaculate car but expect a quality p-car to be in that range.

rmc1148

If you have a 50k budget keep looking as for that price you can find a nice low mileage tip. People try to blow smoke about miles not being important but tell that to any car salesman and they will laugh. You get what you pay for and when you sell it will come back to you. I'm out good luck!

Ck986

I agree with that budget I would be shooting for a low mileage 04-05 Turbo S. Was that a wheel bearing that was making the noise? The 60k mile service is very thorough and covers a lot, best of which includes coils, spark plugs, and fuel filter. It's great that was completed as it's not cheap. If it's a wheel bearing it could go at anytime, but it's surprising how the other shop was dead set on the transmission or differential.

With regards to the low balling comment and "class of owners" these are 14 y/o used cars that cost a lot to repair if something breaks. If there was a differential issue and you wanted to get the problem fixed at a dealer it would cost an arm and a leg. I'm looking out for my fellow rennlister and am not selling anytime soon. Good luck

"02996ttx50

what bearing other than a wheel bearing would be considered "minor"!? lol
another case in point re dealers VS indies VS "real costs" is ck986's mention of the alt.

a brand new bosch ( that one is exhibiting some disconcerting gauge swings, and i think it's giving up the ghost ) is 435$, and 30 min's to install. whereas a dealership with charge you the part cost ( and however much they inflate it! ) and a cpl hours of labor ( which it is NOT! ).. 30 mins tops.. with beer. ok, maybe 45 minutes if you sip.

lastly, i think folks put too much emphasis on the magical "PPI". when i was a kid it was called looking at the car and inspecting it ( albeit with "knowledgeable help! ) for obvious signs of current or impending issue(s). PPIS miss stuff constantly! and are only as good as the person performing them. e.g. porsche missed 2nd gear pop out on a 4 year old car, that ended up costing them the 9+ grand that should've cost 3500 at a fair indie to r&r. lastly re low mileage vs higher etc. while it's true that low mileage is more desirable mostly for that reason alone, don't be lulled into some false sense of security/comfort and think that a car with under 50k miles is somehow sacrosanct and will be trouble free. it may be initially, but won't remain that way.

to a car; the only guys that dont have stuff break on their 10-15 year old cars, are guys that dont drive em lol. conversely, if you drive the car often *enough*.... and in the manner in which it was intended to be driven? sh*t breaks. period. so plan accordingly

rmc1148

I do agree people rely to much on a ppi It amazes me some buyers don't even get down and look under the car or do the most basics of inspection.

"02996ttx50

^ agree. i can't be the only one! it wasn't until i entered the mad world of turbos that i began to notice the utter and almost religious reliance upon these "ppi's" as if they were anything other than a guy looking at the car with or without a "checklist"! lol. even then, "they" miss stuff all the time! but whatever.

pfbz

Yup. You can inspect quite a bit yourself with nothing more than a flashlight and a blanket to throw on the ground. Add a digital paint meter and a durametric cable to check for overrevs, and you can do a PPI yourself that is better or equal to many of the PPI reports I've seen.

I'm also surprised how much what is inspected varies from shop to shop... And how little variation or specific attention in the PPI there is within a given shop for the known weak points of a given year/model, even at shops that have great reputations.

Ck986

I don't typically buy used cars, this was actually my first pre-owned purchase and ppi process. I gave the mechanic Kevin's ppi list and had good results. In addition to driving the car and listening to the motor and giving it a thorough exterior/interior inspection, I was happy. I then asked the shop to waive the fee if I had them do some repair work and I was all set. On the other hand the inspector that inspected my home did a terrible job. I guess it depends who you choose.

Atrox

Update: After bringing the issues up with owner he took the car to dealer where he originally purchased it and does maintenance for a second opinion. It was determined that when car was bought 2 years ago the alternator was noted as being weak and they may replace alternator free of charge. Both master technicians went over the car to investigate bearing issue and found that noise is coming from right front wheel bearing and not the trans. This is documented. Once alternator and bearing are replaced I'll be finalizing purchase. You only live once so I'm pulling the trigger.

Carlo_Carrera

Sound great. Good job. Nice purchase.

DaveCarrera4

Good job on nailing down the problem