Jones R

My '05 Turbo S recently developed a bearing noise in one of the following:I know it is one of these parts. I've replaced the 2 deflection rollers and tensioner pulley and the noise remains. When I run it without the accessory belt (engine cold 30 seconds max) the noise is gone.

When I spin each pulley manually, they are all smooth. This doesn't surprise me since I can't generate the pressure and speed of the belt, so I really need a method to determine the noisy part.

Alternatively I could just ignore it until the culprit fails catastrophically, but if it's the water pump I would need a tow truck to get home.

Advice? Thanks in advance

dprantl

Get a long piece of radiator hose, put one end to your ear and very carefully point the other end as close to one of the components you think is causing the noise as possible, then point to another and see if the noise is louder/softer. If there is enough space to get close enough, you should be able to distinguish which component it is.

Dan

jpflip

Correction….Sorry just realized you already replaced the tensioner….

Jones R

jpflip: the first thing I did was replace all 3 rollers with the kit from ECStuning since that was inexpensive and easy

dprantl: that was interesting, and i have to admit I was skeptical initially. But I actually did hear a distinctly different and louder noise at the water pump using a 3ft piece of foam pipe insulation.

Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think it's enough info to order a water pump just yet, but I think I'll take a closer look at it now.

Macster

If you replaced the idler roller and tensioner roller bearings the noise is most likely the water pump.

With the belt off check for play. I think you'll find the water pump pulley has the most play. It won't be much. My Turbo's water pump signaled its pending demise with a leak. But my Boxster's water pump got noisy and it was just a smidgen of play -- compared to the nearly zero play at the other accessory drives -- that had me ok the water pump get replaced. This proved to be the right diagnosis.

BTW, check the serpentine belt. If sections of the the V's are missing the belt is bad and needs to be replaced.

If the belt has one (or two) sharp edges it is rubbing and that is probably due to an accessory drive with too much bearing play and that is probably the water pump.

I would not just wait for the water pump (if that is what it is) to fail. I'd id the source of the noise and address this before it got worse and certainly before something failed outright.

Jones R

Thanks Macster, I was looking at some water pumps and it seems the price differences are based on impeller material. Composite is significantly more expensive than metal which is significantly more expensive than brass.

What did you use for your 2 replacements?

Macster

For both my Boxster and my Turbo I used, the tech used, whatever the parts manager shoved over the counter. But I saw both new water pumps and they both had (composite) plastic impellers.

jungt

I am curious, is the noise present all of the time, even when the engine is cold?

I have a noise in my 2005 S that only appears after the engine warms up. I suspect my noise originates from the PS pump.

John

Jones R

It's consistently loud with engine cold or hot which is typical of bearing noise.

If you think your PS pump is noisy, have someone turn the wheels with engine running while stopped. Have the engine cover up get close to see how the noise changes.

Kevinmacd

Use a stethoscope and move it as close to areas in question

p556guy

I've got a weird ticking that happens when the motor is cold and I come to a stop (like at a traffic light). Seems to go in-time with the revs, but then slows down before stopping, so I don't think it's anything tied to the belt. Can also only really hear it with the windows up and radio off.

Macster

The last time my Turbo needed new idler/tensioner roller bearings the bad one was quiet at cold engine start but developed a chirp as things go warm.

With my Boxster the water pump started out quiet at cold engine start but as the engine idled and warmed up the water pump developed a rumbling noise.

If you suspect the power steering pump check the fluid level first. I just had my Turbo road worthiness inspected today prior to leaving on a road trip and I asked the tech to check the front diff seals as I had these replaced a while back. He checked the seals -- they were ok -- and then took a hard peek at the rack. He said the rack often develops leak that will result in power steering pump noises then problems as the pump doesn't like to run low on fluid.

Jones R

I had time to pull the water pump this weekend. Yep it's bad.

There were zero leaks and turning the pulley with it mounted to the engine seemed smooth, but off the car it has a very apparent growl when turning.

There is also obvious play in the shaft now that I can easily manipulate it.

On another note, I followed someone's write up in a DIY section for water pump replacement. It's a good write up except that the author has an aftermarket exhaust which may be easier to remove than the oem.

I found that the way the muffler band clamps and muffler heat shield wrap around the bracket make it much more difficult to remove




The bracket goes outside of the heat shield and inside the band clamp



I wonder if the heat shield really has to be there. It would be much easier to replace without it.

Macster

Well, if the heat shield came with the car I'd leave it in service. No automaker puts parts on a car that are not needed.

I've seen the rear bumper cover off of these cars and there are heat shields everywhere in/around the exhaust and engine compartment. There is a 420hp power plant back there with two very large and hot running turbos and enough exhaust hardware to satisfy the exhaust needs of a pre-EPA coal fired power plant.

Jones R

Agreed the OEM heat shields serve a purpose, however aftermarket exhausts (at least images of aftermarket exhausts) don't come with heat shields.

I'm starting to consider an upgrade.