stilov

Just pulled yesterday. Dmfw

rmc1148

Doesn't look overly burnt /heated. I always had mine checked by machine shop if in question.

stilov

Better pic with better lighting

stilov

Here's the pp too. Look how shiny it is on the inside part.




Clutch disc still has material

Kevinmacd

Just get the surface cleaned up and it will probably be good to go. No major imperfections I can see, remove the glaze.

"02996ttx50

was just gonna say.. glaze = not good. when i replaced my dmfw recently it was due to loss of material. it could've gone longer but i was already in. my near new replacement came out of that guy rogers 96t car that exploded his carerra gt with that movie star paul guy... but i am not superstitious.

Kevin

The clutch disk has been relined with fibertough. You can see the wear lip on the pressure plate. If you have a tapered wear pattern on the flywheel, you will need to replace it.

602996TT

For comparison this is my DMFW my mechanic said mine looked great it had 38,000 miles when I had it re-installed when my clutch was replaced last May.

Macster

Here's a pic of my 03 Turbo's flywheel with around 110K miles on it.



Here's a pic of the friction disc:



A new factory disc has 1.7mm of material from the face of the disc to the flanged rivet. The disc is considered worn out when this measurement gets to 0.3mm. I do not know what measurements a disc that has been relined (as sharp-eyed Kevin spotted) should have.

I had the tech reinstall all the clutch hardware. He did replace the clutch control shaft needle bearings as he said these should be replaced.

stilov

Well I'm not going to put it all back in.

It slipped a little so I "need" a clutch.

Thought about keeping the flywheel if it's ok and wondered about the pressure since supposedly clutchmasters modifies the sachs 764.

Macster

If the clutch was manifesting any slippage the disc and pressure plate and release bearing should be replaced. Also, I believe it is SOP to replace the clutch control shaft needle bearings, too. But any hardware inside or outside that is worn or damaged or in any way suspect should be replaced. One doesn't want to open up the bellhousing twice if he can avoid it.

For the flywheel if the dual mass feature is ok -- there is a bench test to check this -- and if the tech believes the surface is ok (not overheated to the point the face has developed hard spots) and the FW is in otherwise good shape it can be reused. In some cases a resurfacing can be done too. Your tech can advise you if this is needed.

stilov

Ha...I'm the tech.

I have some creaking in the clutch for the last year. quiet when cold and then when warm it sounded like an old rocking chair! LOL!

Clutch barely slipped...

I took the flywheel to a shop near by, he told me about he dual mass action, he wasn't that concerned with the surface, he said it looked "ok"

Those things are fine, but the question was when he said just put a stock clutch in...I told hiim I make 690 to the wheels...he acted like it didn't matter. So now I questioned it.

needle bearing will be replaced and bushings. Still getting an opinion on PP and disc and flywheel.

The shaft and fork I could use some help determining if they were the culprit of the creaking.

Kevinmacd

I suggest you go to a more beefed upped pressure plate ( higher clamping force) and disc with that type of HP. The stock from what I hear is good to about 550Hp. If you get the flywheel cleaned up one would think you would then be okay! Kevin has a kit that will accommodate your HP. I would not go with stock pressure plate to say the least!

stilov

Kevin and I have been in talks.

The clutch that came out was a clutchmasters fiber tough.

The pp I think was a 764 sachs that they modify with extra clamping.

Now I'm trying to decide if I do gt2/3 hydraulics while in there.

"02996ttx50

^ why not go for it. you're a "driver" and presumably not concerned about that mods and it's potential for impact on the cars resale value. it's clearly the better "clutch" setup, removing that crap.