Need help on Ohlins R&T baseline settings and alignment for track use
#1
Need help on Ohlins R&T baseline settings and alignment for track use
I posted this in the 996 forum (didn't see the 996TT forum ), and was referred here. Hopefully this is the right forum to post this in. Not sure if this should go in the "racing and driver's education forum." I'd rather not clutter up the forums and post it in every single sub forum. Any and all help is appreciated. Please see request below. Thanks
Hi All,
I had a question on baseline settings/alignment for a track car.
Car:
2003 - 996TT
Current Tires - Toyo R1R (235/315 F/R)
Suspension:
-Ohlins R&T (OTS springs and valving)
-Tarett Engineering tophats (F/R)
-Tarett extended Droplinks
Intended use:
-HPDE track vehicle (street legal). Approximately 5-7 events per year
-Canyon carving
Future tire selection:
Selected tires will be extreme performance street tires (RE-11, PSS, AD-08R, BFG Rivals) and lower level r-comps (NT-01, R888, RC-1), no slicks/hoosiers.
I believe the Ohlins R&T has 34 clicks of adjustment. Does anyone have a baseline setting for this intended use?
What about alignment settings? Tire wear is not a concern.
Right now, i'm targeting the following specs
Front:
Camber: -1.8 degrees
toe: 0
Caster: 7.5
Rear:
Camber: -2.2
Toe (in): -0.2 total degrees (0.1 each side)
Any help is greatly appreciated, especially on damper settings. Thanks.
Right now, i'm targeting
Front: 10 clicks down from full stiff
Rear: 15 clicks down from full stiff
-i have no basis for these settings, just that i'm biasing a bit for understeer right now - will adjust later as needed. That said, if anyone has some good input and data for what worked and didn't work on track, that would be good. I understand that a number of factors will come into play, including other supporting mod and driver skill/style.
Hi All,
I had a question on baseline settings/alignment for a track car.
Car:
2003 - 996TT
Current Tires - Toyo R1R (235/315 F/R)
Suspension:
-Ohlins R&T (OTS springs and valving)
-Tarett Engineering tophats (F/R)
-Tarett extended Droplinks
Intended use:
-HPDE track vehicle (street legal). Approximately 5-7 events per year
-Canyon carving
Future tire selection:
Selected tires will be extreme performance street tires (RE-11, PSS, AD-08R, BFG Rivals) and lower level r-comps (NT-01, R888, RC-1), no slicks/hoosiers.
I believe the Ohlins R&T has 34 clicks of adjustment. Does anyone have a baseline setting for this intended use?
What about alignment settings? Tire wear is not a concern.
Right now, i'm targeting the following specs
Front:
Camber: -1.8 degrees
toe: 0
Caster: 7.5
Rear:
Camber: -2.2
Toe (in): -0.2 total degrees (0.1 each side)
Any help is greatly appreciated, especially on damper settings. Thanks.
Right now, i'm targeting
Front: 10 clicks down from full stiff
Rear: 15 clicks down from full stiff
-i have no basis for these settings, just that i'm biasing a bit for understeer right now - will adjust later as needed. That said, if anyone has some good input and data for what worked and didn't work on track, that would be good. I understand that a number of factors will come into play, including other supporting mod and driver skill/style.
#2
Rennlist Member
There is a lot of depends here. My gt3 I have these dampers with heavier front springs and runn1 click from closed front and 10 rear. Car drives fantastic on track. On rlad it is very stiff.my camber is more agressive and you didn't state your bar setups.
#3
Thanks.
The sway bars are the stock OEM units, for now.
I didn't want to change too many things all at once.
The other thing I had a question about is, how difficult are the adjustment ***** to reach? I've been hearing that the rears might be a bit difficult to access.
If that's the case, I was thinking, maybe just set the rears to 12 clicks down from full stiff and adjust the balance of the car using the fronts only. And only, if I absolutely need to, then mess with the rears?
The sway bars are the stock OEM units, for now.
I didn't want to change too many things all at once.
The other thing I had a question about is, how difficult are the adjustment ***** to reach? I've been hearing that the rears might be a bit difficult to access.
If that's the case, I was thinking, maybe just set the rears to 12 clicks down from full stiff and adjust the balance of the car using the fronts only. And only, if I absolutely need to, then mess with the rears?
#4
Rennlist Member
The fronts you can get to under the upright, just turn steering wheel full lock left or right. The **** is on the bottom.
The rears you need to reach to the back and lift the carpet up. it's a bit of a pain and even more so with a bar. If you leave the rear carpet off it's not too bad to reach back there.
The manual describes a setup, I think that is the best starting point and then you can go stiffer for track. Again, I have stiffer front springs than the stock kit. 600lbs I think, 800 rear if I remember correctly.
The rears you need to reach to the back and lift the carpet up. it's a bit of a pain and even more so with a bar. If you leave the rear carpet off it's not too bad to reach back there.
The manual describes a setup, I think that is the best starting point and then you can go stiffer for track. Again, I have stiffer front springs than the stock kit. 600lbs I think, 800 rear if I remember correctly.