2WD conversion - what is the correct way to convert?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
2WD conversion - what is the correct way to convert?
I would like to convert my 2002 996 turbo manual to rear wheel drive. The car has Bilstein PSS10 coilovers with H&R sway bars and limited slip differential of some variety is in the plans.
Is the conversion as simple as removing the front half shafts, differential and central driveshart or are additional parts required to do it correctly? Somewhere there was a post mentioning a wiring harness and perhaps large bolts or stub axles for the front wheel carriers. Also curious as to whether or not the 996 GT2 has different front suspension geometry.
Has anyone actually weighed the parts removed during this conversion? I have seen numbers from 60lbs to 150lbs quoted in various places.
Is the conversion as simple as removing the front half shafts, differential and central driveshart or are additional parts required to do it correctly? Somewhere there was a post mentioning a wiring harness and perhaps large bolts or stub axles for the front wheel carriers. Also curious as to whether or not the 996 GT2 has different front suspension geometry.
Has anyone actually weighed the parts removed during this conversion? I have seen numbers from 60lbs to 150lbs quoted in various places.
#2
70 lbs on m y conversion. remove axles diff and carbon shaft and thats it. you will need to remove the stub axles from the front axle shaft and reinstall them. gt2 has different geometry.
#3
remove the stuff and stub the axles and get gt2/3 uprights to get the geometry correct per above. I've always heard the 60/70 lbs also. now you need to ensure that all your parts work in concert together. e.g. the pss10's and the h&r sways. they are stiffer even than the gt3 sways if i am not mistaken. i'm told the best way to do this is using as many gt3/2 parts as you can.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
So it is that simple! Does anyone know what geometry changes Porsche made for the GT2? More caster?
I will do a search but how do the PSS10 spring rates compare to the original GT2 rates?
I will do a search but how do the PSS10 spring rates compare to the original GT2 rates?
#6
true, it'll always be a "bastardized" version of a tt once you go rwd, but done "properly" with the correct uprights/coils/lsd etc it will still be a good monster and i don't mean a frankensteinian car.
sure..! start with a gt/2/3 but some of us didn't ( or couldn't? ) and did the next best thing.. or at least are continuing the process.
sure..! start with a gt/2/3 but some of us didn't ( or couldn't? ) and did the next best thing.. or at least are continuing the process.
#7
true, it'll always be a "bastardized" version of a tt once you go rwd, but done "properly" with the correct uprights/coils/lsd etc it will still be a good monster and i don't mean a frankensteinian car. sure..! start with a gt/2/3 but some of us didn't ( or couldn't? ) and did the next best thing.. or at least are continuing the process.
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#8
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and not for nothin' oem gt3 parts or porsche motorsport parts ARE the "best" when it's possible to use them. just my uneducated opinion
#9
The cheap way to do it is to rip out the front differ and axles and call it a day. This does't really do anything except lighten the steering feel a bit, remove about 70lbs, and give you a lot of wheel spin. You will really need some type of a diff and adjustable sway bars to take advantage of rwd. Many have found the wavetrak torque bias diff a great and relatively cheap option. Without doing a diff, I would not do the conversion. It's a must in my opinion, fwiw. Another "must do" item is adjustable front and rear sway so you can tune out the oversteer that will now be present. OEM GT3 bars are a great proven solution. I would get rid of the H&R sways you have. They are solid, heavy, and way too stiff. They are OK for an AWD platform but not optimal for rwd. I have run them on a rwd car and they did not work well.
If you track your car and/or want to do it right (rear correctly) and optimize the car's handling, you will need new shock upper mounts, coil overs, uprights, wheel bearings, tension bolts, sway bars, and drop links. You will also want to add a limited slip differential like a Cup or Guard unit. Below are the parts needed. You can probably source a cheap pair of second hand GT2/3 coil overs that someone has removed in favor of Motons, JRZs, etc.
A great option that won't break the bank is to go with JRZ RS1s (pictured below) that contain everything you need for a bolt on GT2 application.
If you track your car and/or want to do it right (rear correctly) and optimize the car's handling, you will need new shock upper mounts, coil overs, uprights, wheel bearings, tension bolts, sway bars, and drop links. You will also want to add a limited slip differential like a Cup or Guard unit. Below are the parts needed. You can probably source a cheap pair of second hand GT2/3 coil overs that someone has removed in favor of Motons, JRZs, etc.
A great option that won't break the bank is to go with JRZ RS1s (pictured below) that contain everything you need for a bolt on GT2 application.
Last edited by powdrhound; 10-21-2014 at 06:13 PM.
#11
i would consider dropping a ls swap into the car bastardizing it. using porsche parts on a porsche is merely "customizing" it to your personal tastes.
#12
Rennlist Member
I have a Turbo S 996 aligned to GT2 specs rather perfectly if I may add as per pwderhound's recommendations but
I was lucky enough to have TIM941NYC do the transformation.
The exact weight loss for the diff and axles is 71 lbs, my lighter suspension, rotors, top hats etc makes it a total of 100 lbs.... it is an epic car now, just brilliant.... really brilliant... and I am very fussy.
I have Ohline DFV coilovers or you can go crazy and speak to powderhound about the JRZs etc.
My car corners like it is on effing rails, is quicker, lighter, more fun to drive and the PCCB work even better fwiw
I was lucky enough to have TIM941NYC do the transformation.
The exact weight loss for the diff and axles is 71 lbs, my lighter suspension, rotors, top hats etc makes it a total of 100 lbs.... it is an epic car now, just brilliant.... really brilliant... and I am very fussy.
I have Ohline DFV coilovers or you can go crazy and speak to powderhound about the JRZs etc.
My car corners like it is on effing rails, is quicker, lighter, more fun to drive and the PCCB work even better fwiw
#14
ok.. agree. but by your definition? you're not "customizing it". you're using all kinds of after market parts in a way that, although they work ( well?? ) together, are not matched to the car nor are they OEM!! but i wouldn't call either you OR your car a bastard LOL. so no argument. semantics are however, custom made for arguing. cheers
#15
ok.. agree. but by your definition? you're not "customizing it". you're using all kinds of after market parts in a way that, although they work ( well?? ) together, are not matched to the car nor are they OEM!! but i wouldn't call either you OR your car a bastard LOL. so no argument. semantics are however, custom made for arguing. cheers