RWD conversion - do I need new spindles?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
RWD conversion - do I need new spindles?
Hi all,
(posting here since the car is a C4S and I've seen some of you guys have gone through this with turbos already)
I have removed the main shaft to experience the car with 2WD and really enjoy it. Always thought this car was missing a couple hundreds HP, now I'm thinking it misses only 100 of them
I've read different posts about the conversion but couldn't find information specific to my concern, so there it is:
The car has adjustable suspension and sway bars so I'm ready to remove the front diff and axles to simplify the car and save a bit of weight. I'm an occasional tracker, former racer so am OK with tweaking the setup afterward.
It also uses centre lock wheels which I believe are bolted on axle ends (am I wrong?) so does it mean that I need to keep front diff and axles, or pay $$$ for a pair of front R hub/spindle sets (which means I won't do it - I want to keep it a relatively low budget car)
Thanks for any advice!
(posting here since the car is a C4S and I've seen some of you guys have gone through this with turbos already)
I have removed the main shaft to experience the car with 2WD and really enjoy it. Always thought this car was missing a couple hundreds HP, now I'm thinking it misses only 100 of them
I've read different posts about the conversion but couldn't find information specific to my concern, so there it is:
The car has adjustable suspension and sway bars so I'm ready to remove the front diff and axles to simplify the car and save a bit of weight. I'm an occasional tracker, former racer so am OK with tweaking the setup afterward.
It also uses centre lock wheels which I believe are bolted on axle ends (am I wrong?) so does it mean that I need to keep front diff and axles, or pay $$$ for a pair of front R hub/spindle sets (which means I won't do it - I want to keep it a relatively low budget car)
Thanks for any advice!
#3
can either disassemble the outer CV joint and use it as a stub or buy RWD(such as GT2) 'tension bolts' # 996.341.131.90
#4
The GT2 tension bolts will only work on the GT2/3 uprights and not the Turbo AWD hubs. You have to disassemble the CV joint on the TT unless you change out the uprights..
#5
is there a clearance issue?
same wheel bearing, same wheel hub...
same wheel bearing, same wheel hub...
#6
The wheel bearing and wheel hub are the same. That's not the issue. The toothed portion of the GT2 tension bolt is a larger diameter compared the one on the TT CV joint. I'm not sure why they make it that way but they did. You can only use the GT2 tension bolt on the GT2/GT3/Cup uprights.
#7
actually that makes 'sense' now that I remember looking at the two..
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#8
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks guys,
So looks like I need to find a pair of front axles and dismantle CV joints - I guess a bit of turning to minimize their size and get something clean? Will see when I get them in hand.
Also if I understand well I could I could use some stock wheels (not center lock) and the hub bearings don't require CV joints to be bolted in? This could be another option, then.
Thanks again
IM
So looks like I need to find a pair of front axles and dismantle CV joints - I guess a bit of turning to minimize their size and get something clean? Will see when I get them in hand.
Also if I understand well I could I could use some stock wheels (not center lock) and the hub bearings don't require CV joints to be bolted in? This could be another option, then.
Thanks again
IM
#9
completely missed the centre lock wheel bit...
post a pic of what you have, might be a 'dummy' cap
post a pic of what you have, might be a 'dummy' cap
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
No pics before next week, sorry.
That's the 'old' motorsport center lock kits, with racing wheels. Same as the ones that started on 993R and was available on first 996 GT3.
I'll take pics and post them
That's the 'old' motorsport center lock kits, with racing wheels. Same as the ones that started on 993R and was available on first 996 GT3.
I'll take pics and post them
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
And not having the car in front of me, but from what I remember I don't see how the bearings could mechanically speaking take any load without an axle in, so in any case I'd need the CV joints to be in place.
That was the case on 993 - don't see how it could have been made different on the 996...
That was the case on 993 - don't see how it could have been made different on the 996...
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
And I would lose the signal for ABS too, as the tooth portion of the CV would be missing.
So basically I need to find "tension bolts" as described by powderhound that would fit my car, or build it from regular CV joints.
Now I'm confused - how did folks who converted their TT to RWD do?
They seem to say it's a one hour, piece of cake job?!
So basically I need to find "tension bolts" as described by powderhound that would fit my car, or build it from regular CV joints.
Now I'm confused - how did folks who converted their TT to RWD do?
They seem to say it's a one hour, piece of cake job?!
#13
Rennlist Member
A lot of the RWD conversions on the TT's that were done "QUICKLY" is really just removing the driveshaft and front diff etc.
If you go to full RWD and alignment it is a costly experience.
There is a very good thread at 6speedonline (actually several threads) about how to deal with the CV joint issue.
If you go the GT2 upright mount way it will be much more than you want to spend because then you need to change brake lines, rotors etc.
If you go to full RWD and alignment it is a costly experience.
There is a very good thread at 6speedonline (actually several threads) about how to deal with the CV joint issue.
If you go the GT2 upright mount way it will be much more than you want to spend because then you need to change brake lines, rotors etc.
#14
just disassemble your CV shaft, real easy to do...
#15
everything from the "toothed " section is removed. theres a C clip holding the cv joint in place. once its removed you have the toothed hub back into the car with the axle bolt to hold it in place. it can all be reassembled is the future if you want. no lights or any issues at all. i have been red in a tt for over 2 yrs.
if you want to machine the teeth of the hub you can but most don't. theres no interference at all. i don't know how the center lock wheels are different from the 5 lug so i can't tell you how that affects the red conversion
tuxiemama no realignment is needed at all. your not changing any suspension components
heres the thread you want to read. it has all the pics you need
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...nt-cv-mod.html
if you want to machine the teeth of the hub you can but most don't. theres no interference at all. i don't know how the center lock wheels are different from the 5 lug so i can't tell you how that affects the red conversion
tuxiemama no realignment is needed at all. your not changing any suspension components
heres the thread you want to read. it has all the pics you need
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...nt-cv-mod.html