Turbo Jonny

I am having an indie PPI a turbo s for me on wednesday
50k miles manual coupe good history recent new clutch & major service
( 300 miles ago - should i ask for filter change and inspection ? )
I have attached their checklist below

The car looks great and is all original . After searching here
I will ask for a very detailed check on

The ceramics
Over revs
Rear spoiler
Turbos including pulling the inlet pipe to inspect
Vario cam module and sealing ring failures
Coolant pipes ( glue failure )
Oil leaks
What checks can i ask for that may indicate engine problems
EG IMS / bearings - check bolts holding on main gearwheel
Assume leakdown not necessary if engine faults not showing ?
What else ?

Turbo Jonny

Part 2

Vendetta NY

Check for second gear pop-out during the test drive, too.

-V

Tuxiemama

As well as an indy PPI do this yourself

Check all the radiators and hosing, check around Y pipe and Dvs for tightness of fit, I had PPI and they missed a lot of things... things like a loose bolt from 4 yr old clutch replacement, head trim around sunroof not put together properly so any time the car went over a bump it would rattle the whole effing roof, do the 3rd gear WOT and see how the clutch holds at rpms > 6000, check around door sills for leakage, check in the MAF for any signs of H20 etc....... check around headers for any signs of oil or other build-up

Turbo Jonny

Thanks guys . What about a leakdown / compression test if
No other indicators turn up . The car has just had major service
New pluds ect

kalyan

I would definitely get a compression/leakdown test done. I am also in the market for a TT and here is the list of things to check I made as I was researching the car. Hope this helps.

spoiler rams
clutch & flywheel
clutch accumulator
cam solenoid bracket
coil packs & spark plugs
second gear pop out (synchronizer)
Coolant expansion tank cracks
coolant pipe fix/replacement
headlight switch
Front diff seals leak
Joint between Cam carrier and head leaks
Boost issues
lower suspension arms wear
Coolant smell from front of the car - Radiator failure
Tire wear and life left
Rust
Roof folds smooth. No rips, tears.
Check all switches and electrics inside.
A/C

Th Dude

Macster has a detailed write-up for PPI/test drive.
He's posted it many times.
Do an advanced search of his posts and I'm sure you'll find it.

Macster

It is up to you what you need to do to feel comfortable about the car.

If this means an compression test/leak down test that is your call.

I can tell you if you expect to have a leak down test or compression test down for a car I have for sale you are going to have it done at where I say and pay for the work and this includes a new set of plugs -- I'm not having the old plugs reused -- or you're not going to get the car compression tested or leak down tested.

I have to point out neither test will tell you if the engine runs. Neither test will tell you what the engine sounds like when first started from cold, as it idles and warm up and then as it sounds on the road.

There is the risk one of these tests may deliver numbers that scare you away from an otherwise good car, too.

Whatever else you do to inspect the car or do to determine if the car is worthwhile owning, your check out of the car should involve very early a thorough test ride/drive.

You should arrange to visit the car with it dead cold. Be sure the A/C is off. This gets tested later, after the test drive.

You want to turn on the key and ensure all warning lights come on -- including the CEL! -- and go off as soon as the engine fires up. You want to listen to the engine as it idles and warms up.

The engine should idle a while, ideally enough to get warm enough to check the oil level, but 10 minutes or until the coolant temperate gage indicates the engine is nearly warmed up is ok.

The test drive route should be 15 miles or so in length and give the test driver a chance to demo the car in a variety of driving scenarios.

Yes, you want to experience the car as a passenger first.

At all times during this test ride as the passenger you want to be fully tuned to the car, its engine, how it sounds, pulls, otherwise runs.

As a passenger watch the oil pressure gage. Watch the boost display. Note the volt meter readings. Note the coolant temperature gage. You are looking for anything out of the ordinary. 'course, this assumes you know what an ordinary Turbo and its gages should look like, how they should react/behave during a test.

Feel/listen for any signs of hesitation, roughness after a hard acceleration, varying idle, any untoward noises, the works.

After the test ride then you take the car out for a test drive and follow the same route, drive the car the same way.

If after the above you have found no reason to reject the car then give it a thorough used car check out. The list, this admittedly after a quick glance, looks like a good starting point. My best advice is you should assume nothing works until you verify it does. From headlights to taillights, from spoiler to front trunk latch, from engine compartment fan to radiator fans, and so on.

After the test ride, test drive and your check out if you still like the car, can find no reason to reject it, and believe you can buy it for an agreeable sum of money, then have the car PPI'd. The approx. 1 hour engine run time your testing resulted in gives any fluid leaks a better chance to make themselves known.

The entire car must be checked. For instance, over the years and miles my Turbo has leaked from the front diff axle flange seals, the transmission selector shaft seal (one of them at any rate), the water pump, the clutch slave cylinder, and the RMS, oh almost forgot, and the spoiler cylinders. While none of the above would necessarily be deal killers you want to know what you may be facing. None of the above repairs are inexpensive even if you use an indy shop.

There are of course a number of other areas that need to be checked for leak sign too. Any hose, hose or line connection, hydraulic fitting, gasket,
seal, rubber dust boot, or plug needs to be checked for leak sign.

Then there is the check for any signs of horrible accident repair, paint work or other things that suggest the car is not for you.

Turbo Jonny

Thanks and i will try to incorporate as much of that as possible .
Im not planning to do the leakdown tests . If the PPI does not go very
Well i will have to pass , as there is another guy willing to buy without a PPI ..

So much more to be aware of than my air cooled turbo . Only had to
Fix a couple of leaks in 7 years !

Turbo Jonny

Over revs readout

Vendetta NY

Okay, so it spent 7 minutes plus a few ticks at redline, and what appears to be less than 1 second above it. Driven hard? Yeah. Abused? I'd say no.

What does the current engine clock read? Would be interesting to see how long ago it'd been pegged. Sellers are prone to drive it like they stole it once they know they're going to sell.

-V

Turbo Jonny

Something odd here . I just checked the M numbers and they seem to be for a different car
When i convert the total kileometres covered to miles it is 51,751
Current recorded mileage is 52,268

And there is no vehicle id shown . The shop is shut now ..

Update - a friend has suggested the anomalies are normal with a " PIWiS " tester

"02996ttx50

that porsche sheet isn't nearly a comprehensive as it looks. it's simply what they use to CPO a car for the CPO warranty coverage.

a good experienced indy will know all the potential trouble spots/issues to look for. that said, the rev 2's are so few i would bet this car has been babied. gl with it

Turbo Jonny

Here is a list of the faults found , nothing serious
They did most of the checks i asked for . I will test driving
It in the morning

Wipers poor.
Centre air vent display not working.
N/s mirror not lowering in reverse.
Minor scratches around centre console, seats and o/s door panel.
N/s roof trim broken.
O/s wheel arch liner cracked and lip missing.£69.
Centre rad lower air duct missing.£66.
Front lower arm bushes starting to un-bond.
Front tyres not N rated.
N/s turbo heat shield corroded.
Oil line P clip broken.
Slight anti- freeze stain around water pump.
Engine bay light missing.
Bonnet sticker missing.
Slight paint blemishes around n/s

Tuxiemama

So it has done it it's lifetime what I do in an average day near redline !