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Ultimate Motorwerks GT3RS/Turbo 4 Liter Clutch Kit $2,445.00

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Old 06-13-2014, 01:15 PM
  #31  
ScottArizona
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Crap Kevin...now I need to get this for my "new to me" gt3 (yup, I traded in my 04 gt3 that had your rs clutch kit for a 997 gt3 with a stock set up). The difference between the stock set up in that car and your rs kit was drastic, so much so that I actually prefer the way my 04 gt3 drove over my stock 997 gt3. Thinking your 4.0 kit is just what I need to solve that issue completely! Just wish my 997 gt3 needed a clutch right now, as its hard to convince my "CFO" that this should be done when the stock clutch is holding fine...maybe I should go do a few hard drag launches! Best mod I ever did on any car period was the rs lwfw kit on my prior gt3. After looking over your kit, my tech said he had never seen a kit sold by a vendor, until yours, that literally included every single washer, bolt, nut etc...required to "do it right."
Old 06-13-2014, 01:38 PM
  #32  
drh
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Originally Posted by Kevin
Dennis, can you tell (Rennlisters)the differences you feel between you dual mass clutch kit and the RS 4.0 clutch kit WITH factory slave (including how the new slave/accumulator feels).. TIA.
I'll try to explain it best as I can. The stock clutch has never felt good to me. It took a long time to get used to it and be able to shift smoothly. Shifting has always been stiff and it felt as though the clutch never fully engaged enough to allow a fast shift. Perhaps this is normal with the TT.

As a comparison we had a Cayman-S a while back and the clutch/shifting was smooth and light. I was always jealous of that.

With the new clutch kit I notice the following:
1) Clutch feel is smoother with an easier, more progressive feel
2) Shifting is smoother and does not feel as notchy as before. Faster shifts can be made with confidence.
3) The engine revs faster, however, I don't feel the seat of the pants HP increase since I'm still following Kevin's break-in instructions.

LWFW sounds:
1) This is interesting since it is noisy sometimes and other times I don't hear a thing
2) Cold startup with AC off it is stock quiet
3) Warm, noise changes noticeably at idle when AC is turn ON...it rattles more. Turn AC OFF, and it quiets down
4) At idle with AC on, trans in neutral and windows up, there is a 'whirring sound' coming from below the center consul.
5) At any time when the clutch is engaged, the rattling sound stops

I was apprehensive at first about using the LWFW and a bit anxious to hear it running, but at this point coming from a guy who doesn't like a lot of noise, I am very pleased with this setup. Probably the biggest issue for me when a noise is present is not knowing the source. When this happens it is easy to assume something is wrong, but knowing the sound is normal sets me at ease and allows me to fully enjoy this upgrade.

I would recommend it to other TT pilots, but we each have our own tastes and level of tolerance, so I just offer my opinion and if I were asked if I would go this route again, my answer would be absolutely, yes.
Old 06-13-2014, 11:59 PM
  #33  
Mtrboatvr6
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Kevin,

This looks to be a great kit and something I am very much interested in. My clutch unfortunately is not long for this world I feel. My car has almost 40k miles on it, and previous to 32k I really don't know how it was driven. According to all of my documentation, its the original clutch. Is there an approximate "accepted" life for the stock turbo clutches?

As for your clutch kit, I cannot wait to get a LWFW on the turbo. I have a 6lbs Unorthodox Aluminum flywheel with replaceable Kevlar surface on my 99.5 VW GTI VR6 and it absolutely TRANSFORMED the car. The stock was 18lbs to give reference. When I first bought my turbo I could just 'feel' the weight of the dual mass and it bothers me to this day. Some people really do not like the chatter of LWFW's, but after driving/owning the GTI for so long i'm so use to it that cars without one sound strange to me. I have been through a 6 puck clutch on the GTI and know I dont want that again. It was great on the track but man did it have a nit picky engagement on the street (gripped like a gorilla though). If only I could get my turbo to have the same hold and feel as my GTI, I would be in heaven. I recently have been driving my fathers 2013 Corvette Grand Sport and I find the clutch quite enjoyable in that car. I think it has a decent amount of weight that makes it easy to modulate and a very defined engagement point that is closer to the floor. My turbo just feels like it releases really high and is very vague in doing so. Would the GT2 mod be in the same wheelhouse of 'feel' as the Corvettes? I think my accumulator is also biting the dust again. I have receipts that say it was replaced around 25k miles. If anyone else has any good comparisons as to how the GT2 conversion feels, i'm all ears.

Thanks!
Old 06-14-2014, 01:41 AM
  #34  
Kevin
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Scott; Free up the cash... You can sleep tonight knowing that all that extra weight is wearing out your main bearing/thrust bearing. Your new 997GT3 engine is bogged down, yielding the sluggish RPM's as you climb to 9K... You can dream about the new aluminum lightweight drive pulley. All in good fun>> Congrats on the new GT3.

Dennis, Thanks.. Get some more miles on the clutch.

Mtrboatvr6, A proper working hydraulic slave, works well with this clutch. Your high pedal is not correct. This clutch will release close to the floor. It will not be vague with the LWFW and new slave/accumulator. For a street driven car and a car that can be driven on the track >> it really has a good feeling. More precise and crisp. The GT3 slave conversion will give you more feedback, the cost is with no hydraulic assist.
Old 06-14-2014, 02:12 PM
  #35  
993GT
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sorry for the delay, finally got a chance to snap a pic
This is the clutch switch. Wires need to be attached(complete the electrical circuit) for the car to start.
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Old 06-15-2014, 05:48 PM
  #36  
drh
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Thanks for the photo. That was an easy fix.
Old 06-15-2014, 11:11 PM
  #37  
993GT
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:59 PM
  #38  
Mercedesben
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I have one of Kevin's clutch kits and it feels great. I'm getting ready to replace my leaky slave with the Gt2 upgrade so I can have better modulation.
Old 06-30-2014, 04:44 PM
  #39  
TeCKis300
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Kevin,

I do feel that this kit is optimal for the more aggressive driving crowd. What's your opinion on a kit for someone that rather keep the dual mass flywheel for NVH and general street drivability where a heavier flywheel may be desirable?

Can I use any of these parts from the kit? Is there a unsprung disk equivelent to the RS 4.0 disk that I can use?
Old 06-30-2014, 04:54 PM
  #40  
Kevin
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Unless you park in an underground structure and commute is horrid stop and go driving. You couldn't give me the dual mass flywheel. The RS LWFW is 12lbs. It's not your typical 6lb aluminum flywheel. Reach out to fellow Rennlisters for a drive in my kit. Email me where you live.

The only components on this kit that you can use with a dual mass is the 764 Sachs Race engineering pressure plate.
Old 06-30-2014, 04:56 PM
  #41  
drh
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Originally Posted by TeCKis300
Kevin,

I do feel that this kit is optimal for the more aggressive driving crowd. What's your opinion on a kit for someone that rather keep the dual mass flywheel for NVH and general street drivability where a heavier flywheel may be desirable?

Can I use any of these parts from the kit? Is there a unsprung disk equivelent to the RS 4.0 disk that I can use?
I'm not Kevin, but....

I'm a guy who likes his 'street drive-ability' and that being said, the LWFW is an improvement in that regard as far as I'm concerned. The only difference that may be undesirable is the additional noise associated with the LWFW.

Coming from a Motocross background, I assumed changing to a lighter flywheel would be like doing the same to a big bore bike where the lighter mass causes stalling, etc. This is not the case with the TT. If it was I would be the first to complain about it
Old 07-02-2014, 03:23 PM
  #42  
TeCKis300
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All good points that I'm weighing before I make a decision. I'll be pulling my clutch this weekend to see what's actually in my car before I decide on a direction in case I may need even more clutch than I'm anticipating to contain my A28s.
Old 08-18-2014, 02:37 PM
  #43  
Kevin
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Bump to the top.
Old 08-18-2014, 06:18 PM
  #44  
Th Dude
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Question

Originally Posted by Kevin
I like keeping the factory hydraulic assist. The LWFW pedal engagement is more precise vs the dual mass.
Hi Kevin,
Do you recommend leaving the "helper" spring in or taking it out?

Also, will the car require (or benefit from) a revised tune after the installation of this clutch set-up?
Old 08-18-2014, 07:56 PM
  #45  
Kevin
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I recommend running the stock spring with the hydraulic/assist slave.

With my tuning, I adjust the mapping for the LWFW.


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