Make sure you put the dust boots on the ball joints. It will seal out the elements and greatly prolong the life of the heim joints. I have the same links and they are still perfect after a couple of years.
There is also a case to be made against dust boots, many think they trap dirt and moisture in the heim joint and cause premature wear.
I've tried it with and without boots and had much better luck with them. Put a boot on one end, leave the other exposed and compare them a year later. The rubber boots have such a tight fit that you'd pretty much have to submerge the rod links to get moisture and grit inside them. In my experience its the dirt and grit that acts like sandpaper and wears away the the thin Teflon coating in the hein joint. Just my $0.02...
After installing my rear bar last night (GT3), the difference is noticeable. The car definitely pushes less and the steering seems to respond more quickly to inputs. At the moment, I'm on the 3rd hole from the front of the car, which is pretty soft, I think?
I'm going in for an alignment tomorrow to GT2 specs and corner weighted. After that, can you just move drop links on the fly, or do you have to re corner weight due to having to lengthen or shorten the drop links?
Scott (in Cincinnati)
2007 997TT Carrara White / Natural Grey
Past PCars: 996TT ('03), 993TT, 996TT ('02), 996C2, 986
my understanding is that you can adjust the stiffness of the sway bars (change holes) without effecting corner balance
used to adjust from track to track depending on conditions, w/o rebalance - and it worked
Member # 070215-5215
replaced 2001 996TT
2001 996TT gone and missed
1993 RSA dispatched on track