BioBanker

I throw out that many people are not draining the turbos because 1) the amount of oil in them is small, and 2) the cost of stripping a thread is high.

ChemMan

+1

JG 996T

Ramps - new crush washers (4) - new filter; 8 quarts of good oil - done in 20-25 minutes.

(* Note, I stripped one of the turbo screws - local shop charged me $50 to replace with new one I supplied. Haven't stripped one since )

Ed Hess

How did you strip the threads on the screw? Hopefully they have been out a few times and should come right out on mine.

I guess its no big deal to drain them if not much oil is in there. May not be worth the effort.

BTW - this is my 4th p-car - 356B, 86 Carrera, 03 Boxster, and by far the most fun I've ever had in a car. I got the cab because it was in the best condition of all the ones I drove (I think the coupe looks better) with 40K miles for $49K. Put the top down and get some seat time!

Macster

My info is it is not the amount drained makes that much of a difference it is that the amount drained is equal, that both turbos drain the same amount of oil. What this means if they do not I do not know, but can guess it might point to a partially clogged oil return line.

I can't amagine how one can strip the threads if one's using a torque wrench. Perhaps the "stripping" is the tool bit hole? Some have managed to strip this because they fail to insert the tool bit all the way -- the hole is deeper than one thinks -- the partially inserted tool bit strips the tool bit hole? I know this has happened to at the drain plug of other models with a allen tool bit hole.

Kevinmacd

I drain both turbos, crankcase and oil tank. If you hand start the drain plugs before tightening you will alleviate the chance of cross threading. You do not need to monkey the drain plugs. If you counter the oil tank drain plug with another wrench on the tank fitting you will not twist it off.

ECS Tuning

We offer a kit that includes everything you need including a Magnetic Drain Plug. For more information Click Here.

JG 996T

Didn't strip the threads. Stripped on the head where Allen wrench goes.
It was first time I changed the oil - those plugs were like fused on there - probably hadn't been opened ever (I'm second owner). I've had no problems in subsequent changes whatsoever.

Dock

I have to jack mine up as it's too low to get on ramps without major effort. I use jack stands once it's high enough to get them under the car. I also drain the turbos.

Oil changes for my Turbo are every 5-7k miles or every two years, whichever comes first.

Dock

I use a deep plastic oil pan (with spout for draining the oil once it is collected), and I rest it on several 2x4 boards built up high enough so the pan is very close to the oil train; I leave just enough room to comfortably get my hand on the drain plug.

I'm into minimal cleanup and minimal remaining oil mess, so all I have to do is drain the catch pan oil into my larger oil container (used to store oil until I take it to dispose of it once ever three or four years), and wipe the catch pan dry.

Carlo_Carrera

Oh yeah, it comes flying out of there.

Kevinmacd

ECS - Your kit contains 0w-40, I uses 5w-50, so I will have to stick to my current supplier. Personally I think the magnet drain plug is not necessary.

JG 996T

I would buy the kit if it came w M1 5W-50

Ed Hess

Is there a consensus that M1 5w-50 is better than 0w-40? Does K-mart have them both?

Thanks.

Kevinmacd

Nope KMart in my neck of the woods does not have 5w-50. Being in Fla I feel it is better for my type of climate. I buy it online
http://store.avlube.com/mobil15w50.html