996 TT rear spoiler problems - Help!
11-19-2015, 12:18 AM
#91
Three Wheelin'
Nice! Hey Dave is possible for the electronics on the 4" version to be adjusted so the rams rise to less than full height? The reason I ask is because if it is possible I might like to try adjusting my wing height to see how it effects the aero balance of my car at the track.
11-22-2015, 12:40 PM
#93
Three Wheelin'
If they have, I haven't found it. But it makes me wonder if I shouldn't put a video up for installation of the eRam kit. I had a semi-pro guy and owner of a shot hydraulic system shoot one during his eRam kit install last spring.
11-26-2015, 06:42 PM
#94
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i have just returned from another successful spoiler rebleed of the hydraulics after the last rebleed working perfectly and flawlessly for the past 5 years. as much as i really would like to have dave's 4" e-ram kit for very obvious reasons, my refilling of the unit cost me an hour of carta blanca and a few ounces of hydraulic fluid, and its once again, perfectly functional.
not to say it wont fail at some point again ( it will ) but for now, and for basically no cash outlay!? i'm pretty pleased with myself lol
not to say it wont fail at some point again ( it will ) but for now, and for basically no cash outlay!? i'm pretty pleased with myself lol
11-27-2015, 12:40 PM
#95
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i have just returned from another successful spoiler rebleed of the hydraulics after the last rebleed working perfectly and flawlessly for the past 5 years. as much as i really would like to have dave's 4" e-ram kit for very obvious reasons, my refilling of the unit cost me an hour of carta blanca and a few ounces of hydraulic fluid, and its once again, perfectly functional.
not to say it wont fail at some point again ( it will ) but for now, and for basically no cash outlay!? i'm pretty pleased with myself lol
not to say it wont fail at some point again ( it will ) but for now, and for basically no cash outlay!? i'm pretty pleased with myself lol
Have just replaced all O-rings anyway worth doing and if not worth at least opening up the rams at least as far as removing the actual brass cylinder so that one can relube the lot, there will be crud inside there and much dryness, which is probably one thing that causes the plastic block to break.
11-27-2015, 02:35 PM
#96
Where does it leak from? Mine shows no leaks just the plastic syringe pusher block broke.
Have just replaced all O-rings anyway worth doing and if not worth at least opening up the rams at least as far as removing the actual brass cylinder so that one can relube the lot, there will be crud inside there and much dryness, which is probably one thing that causes the plastic block to break.
Have just replaced all O-rings anyway worth doing and if not worth at least opening up the rams at least as far as removing the actual brass cylinder so that one can relube the lot, there will be crud inside there and much dryness, which is probably one thing that causes the plastic block to break.
11-27-2015, 03:26 PM
#97
Three Wheelin'
that is my conundrum. having had years of experience with their finicky nature, i keep a pretty close eye on them and their operability, so imagine my surprise to never having seen any leakage ( THIS time ) and yet, the cylindrical receptacle took several CC's of fluid in each side. as long as the banjo bolts are tight? i cant see where/how it leaks at all! but it was nearly dry, and i didn't have to mess with anything other than a bit of silicon lube/liquid wrench to lube the actual stanchions. thats all i needed to do! once the fluid was back to proper level. again, when this ( low fluid..) is the only issue? it is NOT a difficult process. it's an hour.. or less!
11-27-2015, 03:39 PM
#98
Well this is a conundrum. Where exactly does the missing fluid go? Unless it is running and dripping out somewhere unseen. Pentosin is interesting in that it just leaves behind a film, not a drip, in many cases. Most of the replacements we do have telltale signs - like these from Jon's car:
But the stuff sure looked "pentosin green" to me! So I have no idea, hr said its just fluid he snagged from his shop. I still think its CH11s though lol.
But again..no visible leakage anywhere?!
11-27-2015, 03:48 PM
#99
Well this is a conundrum. Where exactly does the missing fluid go? Unless it is running and dripping out somewhere unseen. Pentosin is interesting in that it just leaves behind a film, not a drip, in many cases. Most of the replacements we do have telltale signs - like these from Jon's car:
But the stuff sure looked "pentosin green" to me! So I have no idea, hr said its just fluid he snagged from his shop. I still think its CH11s though lol.
But again..no visible leakage anywhere?!
12-01-2015, 01:18 PM
#100
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Here's my take on the bleeding procedure. As far as I am concerned you would have removed the complete assy from the car not sure how this can be done otherwise.
Remove both pipes from both ends - rams and pump. Before doing so, at the pump, very important, mark the angles at which the pipes are attached. Note that one pipe goes back on itself along the pump body, the other bends away.
Remove large circlips from rams, remove spoiler attachment fittings retained by it till brass ram internal cylinder ends are visible. Remove pusher rod from centre of rams (just slides out, drops out)
Invert rams, and use a thin rod, or thick wire, with polished end to avoid scratching cylinder interally, to carefully push ram internal piston around halfway or more down cylinder, via oil input (pipe connection) end. Go 3/4ths way down for the RHS ram, the one with the long pipe.
Open up pump end retained by 4 allen bolts, this is the "cylinder head"
Ensure that the pistons in pump cylinders ("syringes") are fully retracted. Depending on why you need to bleed it, this is the default position with the spoiler down, but they may be stuck half way if the spoiler stopped operating. May be safest to take pump apart to ensure that screw is fully wound back. I.e. there must be the maximum space possible in the pump cylinders for oil. Just remove the four screws also retaining the brackets, and push the motor through the ally body, pushing out everything else ahead of it. Done so, lube the screw thread and the plastic pusher block. also the bearing.
Place pump vertically, cylinder openings up, in a vice or similar, make it reasonably secure.
Fill up pump cylinders to the top edge. Avoid spilling at this point. Refit "cylinder head" and orings, careful for the angular alignment of the cylinders, the step cutouts to prevent rotation fit within the cylinder head ribs. Tighten. Don't put in any more oil to top up to the top edge of the "cylinder head" opening, as this will seep away at this point in time as the cylinder o-rings are not yet pressed against the "cylinder head"
Fill rams with Pentosin or replacement, using a syringe. We will be using this fill only to bleed the pipes which is why the exact position of the piston is unimportant, however the longer pipe will contain quite a bit of oil if it is empty the respective piston will need to be pushed around 3/4ths the way down. Use the same rod used to push the pistons down, to ensure that all air is removed from the rams, by poking it down the same orifice, to pop the bubbles. Fill rams to the top edge.
Consider the short length of pipe of the LHS ram. Consider that you will soon be refitting the pipe to both the ram and the pump, so you will eventually need to hang the ram in a convenient location above the pump whilst the latter is still in the vice, so make arrangements for this. Doing this properly makes things much easier, and avoids any possible catastrophic kinking of the pipe, or worse.
That done, lets start with the LHS ram as the RHS one with the longer pipe is simpler. Attach the pipe to it, tighten. You need 2 12mm spanners for this, one may need to be ground down if it is thick. Have the other banjo bolt (the long one) that attaches to the pump and all necessary copper washers to hand.
Now, insert the pusher rod in the top (will now be the bottom) of the ram. Push it till oil flows out of the other end of the pipe, so you have bled the pipe, but leave around half an inch worth or more left of push (it will eventually be pushed flush). While doing this, always keep the open end of the pipe up. Again trying to keep this end up, always above the level of the ram and the rest of the pipe, when possible, fit the banjo bolt and washers to the end, and quickly fit this pipe to the correct pump cylinder, but don't tighten, leave a tiny gap, as soon as you are there, fully push the pusher rod flush so oil leaks via the tiny gap and you have also bled the banjo, and immediately the pusher rod is flush tighten by hand, then without delay, using a spanner. The connection process should be practiced mentally and perhaps physically too so that you can do this efficiently, delaying will result in air entering the pipe. Hang this ram on the previously prepared hook.
Do the same for the RHS ram, this is easier with the longer pipe, more convenient pipe angle, and no need to do any hanging.
Done. Refit the pusher rods if they have fallen out, and the spoiler attachment fittings retained by circlips. Perhaps no need to mention, preferably use new copper washers, cylinder to "head" o-rings, and ideally piston o-rings (certainly if they were leaking) but still very strongly recommended as binding of these o-rings can cause the plastic pusher block to break - as can dirt, dryness and dust seal stiction in the rams.
Clean up, I like to spray wash the lot with WD40.
Remove both pipes from both ends - rams and pump. Before doing so, at the pump, very important, mark the angles at which the pipes are attached. Note that one pipe goes back on itself along the pump body, the other bends away.
Remove large circlips from rams, remove spoiler attachment fittings retained by it till brass ram internal cylinder ends are visible. Remove pusher rod from centre of rams (just slides out, drops out)
Invert rams, and use a thin rod, or thick wire, with polished end to avoid scratching cylinder interally, to carefully push ram internal piston around halfway or more down cylinder, via oil input (pipe connection) end. Go 3/4ths way down for the RHS ram, the one with the long pipe.
Open up pump end retained by 4 allen bolts, this is the "cylinder head"
Ensure that the pistons in pump cylinders ("syringes") are fully retracted. Depending on why you need to bleed it, this is the default position with the spoiler down, but they may be stuck half way if the spoiler stopped operating. May be safest to take pump apart to ensure that screw is fully wound back. I.e. there must be the maximum space possible in the pump cylinders for oil. Just remove the four screws also retaining the brackets, and push the motor through the ally body, pushing out everything else ahead of it. Done so, lube the screw thread and the plastic pusher block. also the bearing.
Place pump vertically, cylinder openings up, in a vice or similar, make it reasonably secure.
Fill up pump cylinders to the top edge. Avoid spilling at this point. Refit "cylinder head" and orings, careful for the angular alignment of the cylinders, the step cutouts to prevent rotation fit within the cylinder head ribs. Tighten. Don't put in any more oil to top up to the top edge of the "cylinder head" opening, as this will seep away at this point in time as the cylinder o-rings are not yet pressed against the "cylinder head"
Fill rams with Pentosin or replacement, using a syringe. We will be using this fill only to bleed the pipes which is why the exact position of the piston is unimportant, however the longer pipe will contain quite a bit of oil if it is empty the respective piston will need to be pushed around 3/4ths the way down. Use the same rod used to push the pistons down, to ensure that all air is removed from the rams, by poking it down the same orifice, to pop the bubbles. Fill rams to the top edge.
Consider the short length of pipe of the LHS ram. Consider that you will soon be refitting the pipe to both the ram and the pump, so you will eventually need to hang the ram in a convenient location above the pump whilst the latter is still in the vice, so make arrangements for this. Doing this properly makes things much easier, and avoids any possible catastrophic kinking of the pipe, or worse.
That done, lets start with the LHS ram as the RHS one with the longer pipe is simpler. Attach the pipe to it, tighten. You need 2 12mm spanners for this, one may need to be ground down if it is thick. Have the other banjo bolt (the long one) that attaches to the pump and all necessary copper washers to hand.
Now, insert the pusher rod in the top (will now be the bottom) of the ram. Push it till oil flows out of the other end of the pipe, so you have bled the pipe, but leave around half an inch worth or more left of push (it will eventually be pushed flush). While doing this, always keep the open end of the pipe up. Again trying to keep this end up, always above the level of the ram and the rest of the pipe, when possible, fit the banjo bolt and washers to the end, and quickly fit this pipe to the correct pump cylinder, but don't tighten, leave a tiny gap, as soon as you are there, fully push the pusher rod flush so oil leaks via the tiny gap and you have also bled the banjo, and immediately the pusher rod is flush tighten by hand, then without delay, using a spanner. The connection process should be practiced mentally and perhaps physically too so that you can do this efficiently, delaying will result in air entering the pipe. Hang this ram on the previously prepared hook.
Do the same for the RHS ram, this is easier with the longer pipe, more convenient pipe angle, and no need to do any hanging.
Done. Refit the pusher rods if they have fallen out, and the spoiler attachment fittings retained by circlips. Perhaps no need to mention, preferably use new copper washers, cylinder to "head" o-rings, and ideally piston o-rings (certainly if they were leaking) but still very strongly recommended as binding of these o-rings can cause the plastic pusher block to break - as can dirt, dryness and dust seal stiction in the rams.
Clean up, I like to spray wash the lot with WD40.
12-01-2015, 05:42 PM
#104
Rennlist Member
Dave,
It's very impressive with how far you have come with this effort! You have a well-designed product set with a very promising future.
Thanks for all of your hard work and persistence in developing a professional (and lasting) solution to the spoiler issue.
It's very impressive with how far you have come with this effort! You have a well-designed product set with a very promising future.
Thanks for all of your hard work and persistence in developing a professional (and lasting) solution to the spoiler issue.
12-01-2015, 06:30 PM
#105
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Dave has built the better mouse trap.
If you going to go through all the trouble of removing, repairing and bleeding the OEM system why not just buy Dave's eRam kit and never have to worry about it again?
If you going to go through all the trouble of removing, repairing and bleeding the OEM system why not just buy Dave's eRam kit and never have to worry about it again?