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Old 11-24-2010, 09:18 PM   #16
Ajs76
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For those of you who went through this, what was dealer cost to repair vs. reasonably priced aftermarket wing (including paint).

I assume it's not wash, but how much of a premium would adding the wing be?
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:31 PM   #17
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I just did the ATF w/Leak Sealer. It took me several hours because three of the bolts holding on the shroud were rusted to the crappy "nut" that is supposed to be mounted into the body of the decklid. I ended up cutting the bolt out entirely...looks like crap now. After that - filled the reservoirs that were VERY low.

I am almost positive my RAMS are what is leaking...so I will see if the leak seal helps. I tested the unit - they work, but I am still pissed about the stupid rusted bolts and now huge holes in the fiberglass. I am photo documenting, I will post pics when done putting it all back in.

Tools required:
Something to turn the Ram Cylinder (I used AR-15 multitool)
Wedge of some sort to hold wing up (I used towels)
Lots of Shop Towels
10mm Socket - for all the shroud bolts
12mm Socket - for the hydraulic bolts
Socket Wrench and extension
Hex Socket Bits in Metric (Not Torx) - I did not note the sizes.
Flat Head screwdriver (Long reach) - used to reinsert harness
Small Flat Head Screwdriver (to remove clips to hold harness)
Flashlight
Pen (to mark bolts on pump)
Hydraulic Oil (I used Transmission Fluid w/Leak Seal)
Funnel of some sort (Opening needs to be very small - about diameter of pencil)
String, Bungies, Zip Ties to "Hang" pump and cylinders while filling them up.

Overall it would have taken about an hour...but I had three bolts that I could not remove and had to final resign myself to cutting two of them out. I got pliers on the backside "nut" on the third one. So I am now missing three bolts on the shroud.

Last edited by cannon1000; 12-08-2010 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:24 PM   #18
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The entire album
http://s820.photobucket.com/albums/z...iler%20Repair/

Key Pics:
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DAMMIT!
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:37 PM   #19
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Spoiler fully deploys and retracts. I am having trouble getting the microswitches correct. If you insert them too far - error and wing will not go up /down. Not in far enough and the spoiler will go up and down via switch, but will stop raising or lowering because it doesn't know the position.

I am going to try foam in the switch cover to see if that works. Otherwise...more finesse.

Fluid was added on December 7th. If it keeps leaking - I will repost so an idea of how long this "holds" is documented. Hopefully the leak seal will help....that is what I am counting on...otherwise I will have to repeat the process.
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Old 01-07-2011, 05:03 PM   #20
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I have developed what has to be the most economical way to fix the 996tt rear spoiler by fixing it in place. Any Do It Yourselfer can install it and you will be rid of your "failure spoiler control" light and leaky hydraulics for good. My kit keeps the 100% stock look on the outside and other than the removed pump and hydraulic lines, 100% stock look under the decklid. Please see my ebay auction for more info and pictures of the end product. I didn't feel like paying big $$ to fix mine, and came up with an engineered solution. You can choose your desired spoiler height, and even change that height when your mood changes. Each kit includes many height options. Call me at 813-367-7553 or search for "Porsche 996tt turbo fixed rear wing spoiler kit" on ebay. I'm ebay member id "sbrtampa".
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jweisser View Post
I have developed what has to be the most economical way to fix the 996tt rear spoiler by fixing it in place. Any Do It Yourselfer can install it and you will be rid of your "failure spoiler control" light and leaky hydraulics for good. My kit keeps the 100% stock look on the outside and other than the removed pump and hydraulic lines, 100% stock look under the decklid. Please see my ebay auction for more info and pictures of the end product. I didn't feel like paying big $$ to fix mine, and came up with an engineered solution. You can choose your desired spoiler height, and even change that height when your mood changes. Each kit includes many height options. Call me at 813-367-7553 or search for "Porsche 996tt turbo fixed rear wing spoiler kit" on ebay. I'm ebay member id "sbrtampa".
Please tell us more about this kit!
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Old 01-18-2011, 06:11 PM   #22
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The kit is pretty simple really. It is more precise measurements and machining than complicated pieces. If you don't mind getting your hands a little dirty, it will take you about 1-1.5hrs to complete. Full instructions are included.

This is not for someone with working hydraulics, not that it destroys your hydraulics, but would create the need to refill and bleed.
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Old 01-19-2011, 02:34 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannon1000 View Post
Spoiler fully deploys and retracts. I am having trouble getting the microswitches correct. If you insert them too far - error and wing will not go up /down. Not in far enough and the spoiler will go up and down via switch, but will stop raising or lowering because it doesn't know the position.

I am going to try foam in the switch cover to see if that works. Otherwise...more finesse.

Fluid was added on December 7th. If it keeps leaking - I will repost so an idea of how long this "holds" is documented. Hopefully the leak seal will help....that is what I am counting on...otherwise I will have to repeat the process.
If you order a new microswitch (2) and bracket (1) assembly (~$100 for the three items) you'll see that it now comes in a new design that does away completely with the necessity to finesse the microswitches in "just right" - I know exactly what you are referring to, as I struggled with them for a while myself.

The new assembly allows the microswitches to snap right into the bracket and stay in place without the chance of wiggling themselves out of the right "sweet spot".
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Old 05-31-2011, 12:42 AM   #24
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My spoiler had not been retracting all the time for the last couple of weeks and for the last couple of days it doesn't work at all. I removed the plastic panel under the rear deck and the pump motor is working with the manual switch, just not moving the hydraulic rams.

I tried to manually raise the rams by pulling up evenly on the wing but it doesn't want to go up. It seems like it is under great downward spring tension as I could lift it ever so slightly but it would snap back down. Should I try lifting while an assistant powers up the switch to get the pump motor running? I think I need to get the wing up to remove it.

It looks to be a very simple repair, we'll see when I'm done. I'm going to try to use new crush washers and may use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid after emptying the system. If it leaks it will not damage any plastic, rubber or painted surfaces and is compatable with all types of rubber and synthetic seals.

A great write up on the fix, BTW. Also a note, generally it's not necessary to mark banjo bolts and fittings as by design they will move fluid equally well 360 degrees of orientation. The bolts or inside of fittings are usually grooved so alignment is not necessary.

So does anyone know how to manually raise the wing?

TIA
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:26 AM   #25
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Looking at the parts section, the rams can be purchased seperately. I woiuld think if your leak is around the ram seals replace the rams rather than the whole system. The whole system costs about $1,500 while the rams caost about $450 apiece

http://www.audiporschevwparts.com/
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Old 06-04-2011, 05:07 PM   #26
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So does anyone know how to manually raise the wing?

TIA
I would like to know, too.
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:08 PM   #27
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To raise the wing, grip both ends and pull up. It's rather difficult as it's under heavy spring tension. Once up, have an assistant put a padded block under each end to keep it up.

I got the pin wrench removed the wing. Removed the cylinders and pump. I then removed a hose from a cylinder keeping the banjo at the highest point. Cylinder was full. Removed banjo from pump and it was full as well. Pump motors when switch is acctivated but no cylinder movement. I have late fixed position micro switches. Noticed at rest the right cylinder is extended a bit more than the left possibly not activating the lower switch.
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:55 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick49 View Post
To raise the wing, grip both ends and pull up. It's rather difficult as it's under heavy spring tension. Once up, have an assistant put a padded block under each end to keep it up.

I got the pin wrench removed the wing. Removed the cylinders and pump. I then removed a hose from a cylinder keeping the banjo at the highest point. Cylinder was full. Removed banjo from pump and it was full as well. Pump motors when switch is acctivated but no cylinder movement. I have late fixed position micro switches. Noticed at rest the right cylinder is extended a bit more than the left possibly not activating the lower switch.
You must have an 'S' on your chest. I will try it. Did the springs retract violently when you twisted the wing off? Did you have to do anything about that or just prepare for the loud bang?

Thanks,
Early
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:43 AM   #29
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You must have an 'S' on your chest. I will try it. Did the springs retract violently when you twisted the wing off? Did you have to do anything about that or just prepare for the loud bang?

Thanks,
Early
Yes they did snap back suddenly. I'd wrap a towel around the wing where the rams come thru to protect the paint from the tool when the rams suddenly retract.
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:42 PM   #30
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Yes they did snap back suddenly. I'd wrap a towel around the wing where the rams come thru to protect the paint from the tool when the rams suddenly retract.
What if you don't fix the ram hydraulic issues? Then you can't re-attach the wing. Is that right?

I will have to think hard about doing this one.
Thanks
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:42 PM
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