marucus1

Tomorrow I will be doing the oil change
From notes I found
Do I need to remove the fuse to the pump after I finished the oil and filter change so that I can turn the car over on the starter until I see oil pressure on the gauge?
Once I see the pressure, refit the fuse & warm the engine to do a final level check
Do I need a physical oil stick check or just the dashboard ?
Thanks

yelcab

You are making this more complicated than it has to be.

Jack it up, crawl underneath, drain, refit the plug, fill it up, and start it.
Also do the oil filter if you bought one.

PAULUNM

In my experience, you need to pull the fuel pump fuse before draining oil. Then crank the motor until there is no fuel left in the system- you'll know as the car won't try to start.

Then proceed with the normal oil change procedure. Refill, crank until you see pressure on the gauge. Reinstall fuse.

And I believe it's fuse C4.

Macster

There is no need to remove the fuse and crank the engine. The engine still has residual oil that suffices. I mean you do not do this fuse pull thing before every start why the start after the oil change?

Besides the starter only spins the engine to maybe 75 RPMs and this is not enough to really develop any oil pressure. What this does is just spin the engine at too low an RPM that the residual oil doesn't form the desired hydrodynamic bearing (oil film) that requires speed along with pressure to develop. The bearing surfaces lose any residual oil they have. Then you install the fuse and crank the engine some more and it fires and the RPMs zoom to nearly 2K and all on bearings with less residual oil than they would otherwise have. Not what I would want to subject my engine too.

My 2002 Boxster with 288K miles has had an oil/filter change every 5K miles and the engine is just fine and I never have pulled the fuel pump fuse to crank the engine to build oil pressure. My 03 Turbo with 132K miles same thing. And both engines have experienced more starts than I can count and they are fine. And the same can be said for the millions of other engines around. This pulling the fuse and cranking the engine to build oil pressure is just silly, worse than silly for I believe it puts the very bearings that one thinks he is helping in some way really at risk of being inadequately lubricated upon actual engine start.

As for the oil change proper, you should warm up the engine to a minimum of 80C. This is the temperature at which - at least this is the case with my 996 Turbo engine -- I can check the oil level using the oil e-level system.

Then drain the oil. I do not know what the drain interval is for the 996 GT3 engine but of the 996 Turbo it is 20 minutes. (Porsche calls this "drip time".)

Then button everything up and add the specified amount of oil. This is where it gets tricky. The actual amount of oil to add to the engine to arrive at the proper oil level may not be the same amount as given in the owners manual. Engine oil volumes change over time -- as changes are made to the shape/volume of the oil tank or sump, etc. -- and Porsche doesn't bother to update the owners manual. The actual oil volume is tied to the car's VIN and the dealer parts department (or one of the techs) should be able to call this up for you.

In the case of my Turbo the factory specifies 7.8l of oil be used. So, you dump in 7.8l of oil (or whatever the amount is for your car) and dump this oil in slowly (as per the factory manual oil change instructions) and then start the engine and let it idle until you can check the oil level and confirm the reading is correct.

For my car the level reading should be at the max line, not below it and certainly not above it.

This is the way you ensure the engine has the proper amount of oil in it and the oil e-level system reading agrees with this.

Since my Turbo doesn't have a dip stick this is the only way I have of knowing how much oil the engine has, by carefully counting (and counting twice) the number of empty quart oil bottles I have.

At the dealer the techs have the benefit of an oil dispensing gun that reads out in 0.01l the quantity of oil dispensed.

Marv

Exactly!

Marv

Also, there are two drain plugs. One on the engine sump and another on the oil reserve tank that is slightly forward and toward the passenger side of the car.

You will need about 10 quarts of oil.

You also need to get new crush rings for the oil drain plugs when you buy the filter.

Oh, have a roll of paper towels handy.

FFaust

And don't dismiss the "drip time", it yields a surprising amount of oil.

Bobby Smith

Also, refill SLOWLY. It's easy to rush it and have oil spill all over your pretty engine.

marucus1

What is the interval mileage for an oil change
It had 12,500 and now 15,000 miles
Oil change was done when I purchased the car

lax01

BTDT

You also need a nice flexible funnel to fill these cars...

Marv

About 5K miles, but the actual interval depends on how it is driven and in what environment.

The best way to determine the correct change interval is to have the oil tested.

Just make sure you are testing the old oil and not the new oil...

kgorman

I skipped all the fuse/cranking nonsense. Just a simple change for me. Good points about drip time and fill slowly. Drip time is when you drink a beer.

00Coupe

I do the fuse trick:

1. When I replace oil (after car has been sitting all winter)
2. After its been sitting for a week or so without being driven

Personally I don't agree with the engine not reaching oil pressure with starter, the gauge recognizes pressure same as in idle. ( ~ 2 ) When you start the car, pressure is higher but its better than nothing.

The main reason I do it is my engine sounds completly different if I don't do it.Some check valve or something allowing oil to drain after sitting for a long time, but if I do the fuse prime it starts same as a warm start. I suggest you try both ways and listen to the engine at startup.. Im curious if you notice a difference.

I also read on these engines its better to fill some oil through oil filter tube.. You can see Kevin's post, he had these engines apart and I believe he stated there was no oil in crank case after emptying and filling majority of oil to sump tank.. Its been a while since I read that so you can try to re-read.

Macster

When I crank my Turbo's cold engine the oil pressure initially doesn't even climb to 1 bar then begins to fall some. Only when the engine actually fires and begins to run does the oil pressure climb to 4 bar (which is the cold engine idle oil pressure).

Here's a video:

View My Video

Based on the oil pressure behavior while cranking it would appear to me the oil pressure would take some time, if ever, to really climb. In the meantime the plain bearings are using up their budget of residual oil.

Oh, note the momentary drop in oil pressure after the oil pressure has peaked? That's from the VarioCam Plus switchover to low lift.

Dervish

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