lax01

But that means you are not selling direct to consumer, right?

Either way, TLG installed mine a couple of weeks ago

Gofishracing

Lou- too cool. You are welcome over my house any day you want to work on my car.

GTgears

Let me clarify. I don't open dealers. I open authorized installers. I want to know who it putting the parts in and trust that they will be installed properly. There's a lot of hacks out there. Bad mechanics blame good parts when they put them in incorrectly. I also don't sell to e-tailers who are interested in cost cutting without installing parts in house trying to be the Amazon of car parts.

If you want to use a mechanic of your choosing who I don't do business with, or install the parts yourself I will sell to you directly.You just pick up the phone and call. If someone screws up, it's on you.

Also, be aware the list on my website is partial at best. That's a list of the people I work most closely with. I sell to over 250 independent shops just in North America. Probably another 40-50 overseas in Europe and Asia. If you ever want to know whether or not I give the nod to someone, just drop me an email. gtears@yahoo.com While I post regarding things related to my business here from time to time, if you look at my post history, this is my personal account and I am usually here outside of work hours when I'm just looking to hang out. A PM may not get a response for several days.

Regards,

Matt

ps. Read the LSD Buster thread. First post answers your R&R question with pictures. Gearbox stays in the car.

GTgears

LSD parts are about the only item I make that I will sell direct to a DIYer. 98% of what I make requires a mechanic with proper training and know how to install. Rebuilding an LSD is not rocket science, which is part of why I stopped offering the service. It made zero sense for guys to be spending $100-200 on shipping for me to lay my hands on your unit.

A decent professional mechanic or good shadetree can remove and rebuild the LSD. Guys have been doing it on their 915s and 944 gearboxes for many years. A GT3 LSD is no more difficult. It's a straight forward R&R job.

lax01

Thanks for clearing that up - can't wait to test the rebuilt LSD on the track

cgfen

Thank you for taking the time to reply.
Once out, I'll take your suggestion to pick up the phone and call.
Way too much computer chat occurs, not enough talky-talky.

Craig

cgfen

Phone call went well.
Received parts
Installed parts
Problem resolved
AND
have upgraded LSD.
(stock parts shown in photo)

GtGears, (Guard) buy from them with confidence.

blotto649

For those who have successfully pulled their diff from their 996 GT3, can you provide some guidance on where you put the driveshaft to be able to get the diff out and around it? I've been struggling with this for the better part of the day (interspersed with anger management breaks) and for the life of me I can't figure it out.

The closest I came was with the driveshaft as low as it would go and towards the rear of the car. There seems to be more room up high over the top of the diff but I couldn't figure out what was keeping it from getting up there.

Any advice?

AudiOn19s

are you compressing the axle? If memory serves (it's been a few years) that's the trick.

Otherwise you are good. Axle towards the rear

powdrhound

Might be easier to remove the axle. I just did this recently. Remove the center axle nut and pop the axle out. I used an air hammer on mine and it popped right out. Easy peasy.. Takes 5 minutes.

cgfen

I just wiggled and swore until i was able to remove the diff.
If I ever do it again, I'll do what powderhound suggests


**************************
I would HIGHLY recommend that you install the stub axles in the diff prior to bolting the diff cover in place over the clutch pack while still on your work bench.
(Remove stubs once you've torqued the cover down)
VERY depressing to find out once you have reinstalled the diff that the splines do not quite line up.
i had to remove the diff (again), loosen the cover bolts, install stubs, re-tighten bolts, remove stubs and re-install the diff (again).


Trust me on this.

blotto649

Thanks, gents. Yah, I think I'll give it one more try this morning, then go with powdrhound's suggestion. I've been compressing the axle but only as much as I'm able with my hand - will try to see if I can get a clamp in there somewhere. Serenity now...

Cheers!

black04

Not sure, but don't you need "proper" tools to remove that big ol' axle nut?

I took a couple of the upper wishbone bolts out to move the suspension an inch or so.

AudiOn19s

Impact gun helps esp since he's already got the other end of the axle disconnected from the flange at the transmission. Also need a torque wrench that goes high enough for torque spec is all. That nut is 340 ft/lbs.

blotto649

Back again with a question re. part number. The 2 grooved washers the top and bottom of the inner assembly are both cracked. Does anyone know the part number for these?

PET seems to be 996 332 266 56 but I'd like to confirm before ordering.