Porsche 996 GT3 DIY: Fuel Filter Replacement
#1
Porsche 996 GT3 DIY: Fuel Filter Replacement
Ready to change the fuel filter your GT3? This DIY article will assist you in getting that done!
Porsche Recommended Service Interval: Change Fuel Filter every 48k miles
Parts Required:
Fuel Filter: 996-110-253-52
Tools Required:
Philips Screwdriver
(2) 3/4" Wrench
Small Plug
Towel / Rag
Here is a shot of the Fuel Filter and the tools required for the job
Before we start work let's review how the fuel filter is connected in the car. At one end you have a two metal fittings that connect the fuel line to the filter. To loosen this connection you must use two wrenches simultaneously in the opposite direction. At the other end you have a black hardline that is connected by a simple quick release mechanism. The quick release and its functionality are shown below.
Now that we have an understanding how the filter is connected we can start the DIY. Let's start by popping the engine compartment lid
The fuel filter is located on the left hand side of the engine compartment just behind the coolant expansion tank. This procedure looks more intimidating than it really is because of the limited space to work with. I will show you how to easily remove the filter without much hassle. Here is a close up of the fuel filter
Here is a shot of the new filter with the old one in the background to show you the orientation
Time to get to work. You will see i have placed a rag beneath the filter to capture the excess fuel coming from the filter and the disconnected lines.
First step is to disconnect the small connector on the front side of the filter. It simply pulls off and can be placed out of the way
Next step is the remove the rear fuel line which snakes up above the fuel filter. This is the line that has the quick disconnect connector. Before you disconnect the line i recommend getting your plug ready to cap off the line to limit the amount of fuel seeping out.
Once you are ready you can press the silver tab inward (as demonstrated earlier), which will release the connector. Then pull away to disconnect the line.
Here is a shot of the connector disconnected and the line capped.
Next we want to remove the fuel filter from its mount on the coolant expansion tank. Below is a picture (without the filter to make it easier to see) that illustrates what i am talking about. It is not necessary to remove the filter by un-doing the hose clamp. The fuel filter is secured to a black mount by the hose clamp. The black mount is then mounted to the coolant expansion tank, which secures the filter in place.
To remove the filter and black mount together you follow the 2 steps draw in the above picture
Here is a shot of the filter / mount disconnected from the expansion tank mount
By following this procedure you can now wiggle the fuel filter toward the back of the engine bay. This will give you sufficient room to disconnect the front line with your wrenches. Grab your two 3/4" wrenches and place them on the fittings as shown below. To crack the line loose, follow the directions in the image below
Now that the fittings are loose you can finish removing it by hand. Make sure your rag is under the fitting to catch the excess gas
Now the fuel filter can be removed from the car.
Place the fuel filter next to the new filter. Next step is to transfer the black mount and hose clamp to the new filter. Line them up to ensure you match the orientation. Use a flat head to loosen the hose came and then transfer to the new filter
Here is the new filter with the mount attached. All ready to go back in the car
Basically we can follow the procedure in reverse for the re-install. First step is to connect the front line. Make sure you have enough room to tighten down the fittings.
To tighten, use go the opposite direction with the wrenches. Left most wrench toward the passenger side and the right wrench toward driver side
Next we can re-mount the filter to the coolant expansion tank. Follow the 2 step procedure illustrated in the picture below
Here is a shot of the filter back in its mounted position
Remove plug from the top fuel line. Reconnect this fuel line by simply sliding the connector onto the hardline. It will click when secure
Slide the plastic connector back on the front of the filter
Shot of the new filter installed
That's it! You have successfully changed your fuel filter! If you have any questions or concerns about this DIY tutorial please feel free to comment or send me a private message. I hope you have benefited from this article.
Porsche Recommended Service Interval: Change Fuel Filter every 48k miles
Parts Required:
Fuel Filter: 996-110-253-52
Tools Required:
Philips Screwdriver
(2) 3/4" Wrench
Small Plug
Towel / Rag
Here is a shot of the Fuel Filter and the tools required for the job
Before we start work let's review how the fuel filter is connected in the car. At one end you have a two metal fittings that connect the fuel line to the filter. To loosen this connection you must use two wrenches simultaneously in the opposite direction. At the other end you have a black hardline that is connected by a simple quick release mechanism. The quick release and its functionality are shown below.
Now that we have an understanding how the filter is connected we can start the DIY. Let's start by popping the engine compartment lid
The fuel filter is located on the left hand side of the engine compartment just behind the coolant expansion tank. This procedure looks more intimidating than it really is because of the limited space to work with. I will show you how to easily remove the filter without much hassle. Here is a close up of the fuel filter
Here is a shot of the new filter with the old one in the background to show you the orientation
Time to get to work. You will see i have placed a rag beneath the filter to capture the excess fuel coming from the filter and the disconnected lines.
First step is to disconnect the small connector on the front side of the filter. It simply pulls off and can be placed out of the way
Next step is the remove the rear fuel line which snakes up above the fuel filter. This is the line that has the quick disconnect connector. Before you disconnect the line i recommend getting your plug ready to cap off the line to limit the amount of fuel seeping out.
Once you are ready you can press the silver tab inward (as demonstrated earlier), which will release the connector. Then pull away to disconnect the line.
Here is a shot of the connector disconnected and the line capped.
Next we want to remove the fuel filter from its mount on the coolant expansion tank. Below is a picture (without the filter to make it easier to see) that illustrates what i am talking about. It is not necessary to remove the filter by un-doing the hose clamp. The fuel filter is secured to a black mount by the hose clamp. The black mount is then mounted to the coolant expansion tank, which secures the filter in place.
To remove the filter and black mount together you follow the 2 steps draw in the above picture
Here is a shot of the filter / mount disconnected from the expansion tank mount
By following this procedure you can now wiggle the fuel filter toward the back of the engine bay. This will give you sufficient room to disconnect the front line with your wrenches. Grab your two 3/4" wrenches and place them on the fittings as shown below. To crack the line loose, follow the directions in the image below
Now that the fittings are loose you can finish removing it by hand. Make sure your rag is under the fitting to catch the excess gas
Now the fuel filter can be removed from the car.
Place the fuel filter next to the new filter. Next step is to transfer the black mount and hose clamp to the new filter. Line them up to ensure you match the orientation. Use a flat head to loosen the hose came and then transfer to the new filter
Here is the new filter with the mount attached. All ready to go back in the car
Basically we can follow the procedure in reverse for the re-install. First step is to connect the front line. Make sure you have enough room to tighten down the fittings.
To tighten, use go the opposite direction with the wrenches. Left most wrench toward the passenger side and the right wrench toward driver side
Next we can re-mount the filter to the coolant expansion tank. Follow the 2 step procedure illustrated in the picture below
Here is a shot of the filter back in its mounted position
Remove plug from the top fuel line. Reconnect this fuel line by simply sliding the connector onto the hardline. It will click when secure
Slide the plastic connector back on the front of the filter
Shot of the new filter installed
That's it! You have successfully changed your fuel filter! If you have any questions or concerns about this DIY tutorial please feel free to comment or send me a private message. I hope you have benefited from this article.
Last edited by joeycannoli; 11-16-2018 at 07:27 PM.
#4
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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Excellent write up, especially with photos'. Couple of thing you can also do to try make as easy as poss. as it's quite confined.
That whole fuel lines under pressure, so to avoid as much fuel loss as poss. start engine and go to fuse bay in foot-well, pull of cover and with yellow tool pull out fuse C4 and press throttle till engine dies, this will depressurize fuel system. There's still fuel in the filter that will run out but that unavoidable.
Also remove the engine air filter, this will give yourself considerably more manovering room.
Last thing to remember is the fuel line that comes attached to the filter (the one with the clip on) must end up at 12'o clock once you've finished tightening the nut up, this is important to avoid any twisting or bending of the two fuel lines.
That whole fuel lines under pressure, so to avoid as much fuel loss as poss. start engine and go to fuse bay in foot-well, pull of cover and with yellow tool pull out fuse C4 and press throttle till engine dies, this will depressurize fuel system. There's still fuel in the filter that will run out but that unavoidable.
Also remove the engine air filter, this will give yourself considerably more manovering room.
Last thing to remember is the fuel line that comes attached to the filter (the one with the clip on) must end up at 12'o clock once you've finished tightening the nut up, this is important to avoid any twisting or bending of the two fuel lines.
#5
Rennlist Member
Great Write Up. Couple things, always good idea to use metric tools (in this case 19mm is .748" which is essentially 3/4") even if the Standard is close. Fuel fittings especially can be tough and can round off easy. Also good little trick to write the current month, year, and mileage on the filter with a Sharpie. Then you will always know last time you changed without having to look through records...
#7
Great Write Up. Couple things, always good idea to use metric tools (in this case 19mm is .748" which is essentially 3/4") even if the Standard is close. Fuel fittings especially can be tough and can round off easy. Also good little trick to write the current month, year, and mileage on the filter with a Sharpie. Then you will always know last time you changed without having to look through records...
Cool tip for the filter although i like to keep a spreadsheet with all the maintenance i do with the recorded miles. Really helps a lot also
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#9
Rennlist Member
When I did my filter replacement I left the mount in place on the coolant reservoir-expansion tank. I did that because the tank has leaked on some GT3 and I didn't want to put any stress on it.
I also placed a plastic trash bag under the filter work area to catch fuel that my rags didn't absorb. I kept rags in place when I started the engine and checked for fuel leaks because if you do have a leak a lot of fuel will spray out.
I also placed a plastic trash bag under the filter work area to catch fuel that my rags didn't absorb. I kept rags in place when I started the engine and checked for fuel leaks because if you do have a leak a lot of fuel will spray out.
#10
Rennlist Member
Just did the fuel filter change with the help of this thread! Thanks! Once you do this once, the next time it will take like a few minutes only! It is the hardest the first time!
I didn't tighten the connector quite tight enough the first time so it had a slow drip when I started the engine. so I basically had to disconnect the pipe on top and take the filter out to tighten it. And it only took a few minutes the 2nd time.. Then went out for a test drive and no problem after.
Also changed the air filter and put in the solid engine mounts while at it.
I didn't tighten the connector quite tight enough the first time so it had a slow drip when I started the engine. so I basically had to disconnect the pipe on top and take the filter out to tighten it. And it only took a few minutes the 2nd time.. Then went out for a test drive and no problem after.
Also changed the air filter and put in the solid engine mounts while at it.
#11
Rennlist Member
Also just did my first filter change thanks to this thread and comments. The tip of pulling pump fuse works well, hardly any fuel loss when unclipping first hose.
Another tip is to have a larger bung ready to put in the filter when you undo main connection, that way you can manoeuvre the filter out without fuel tipping everywhere.
Many thanks guys.
Another tip is to have a larger bung ready to put in the filter when you undo main connection, that way you can manoeuvre the filter out without fuel tipping everywhere.
Many thanks guys.
#14
Rennlist Member