jsalamunovich

The instructions on Water Wetter say to still use some antifreeze for street driving. That seems to me to defeat the whole purpose of using Water Wetter (i.e., avoiding antifreeze on my rear tires if I have a coolant system failure). As long as I switch to antifreeze for the winter, is there any problem using only Water Wetter and water on the street in the summer?

FFaust

Not that I know.

I think they market this (and other similar products) as products to enhance your coolant's cooling properties. That way, they can sell it to folks that are not necessarily ready to flush and replace all the coolant.

You'll be fine. Just did it myself.

ace996

Drain the system, use one bottle of WW and distilled water (bottled water, 1 gallon jugs from your local supermarket). The WW helps lubricate the water pump, too.

The coolant suggestion is for people who won't flush the system and put in antifreeze when winter comes.

Be good,
TomK

CME

So if I don't drive my car is winter I can just dump the coolant and replace with WW. No need to change back to coolant again?
Thanks.
Chet

gt3'er

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but is draining/filling coolant system on a 996GT3 a DIY project? I want to go with WW this season... Any DIY instructions available?

Thanks.

blake

Thanks for posting this thread. I have another question (maybe Crazy Canuck can chime in)...

What is the boiling point for Water Wetter? I run my Gt3 exclusively at MMP in Utah, and track temps see 120 degrees in the summer... And yes, I have been bit by the coolant leak in the past (same as Datax)

Thanks,
-Blake

ace996

Yes, but because you don't have the anticorrosive protection of the antifreeze you should flush the water/WW at least twice a year.

SH || NC

Where did you hear this?

gt3'er

WW's website says their product has anti-corrosive protection..."Rust and corrosion protection allows for use of straight water in racing or reduced antifreeze levels in warm climates"...

ace996

From "them"...over the years of racing bikes, where we were only allowed to run water and WW, that was the general practice. When I hung up my leathers and moved to 4wheels, I just continued the practice. I do not believe that a bottle of WW has the same anticorrosion properties of 50/50 antifreeze, so I flush more than normal - it makes me feel better.

Actually, when I switch to WW for the summer (I do run a mix of antifreeze/water from November to May), I use:

- distilled water (from my local CVS, 1 gallon jugs)
- one bottle of WW
- one bottle of waterpump lube (it's small, about the size of a half-can of soda, this is just my paranoia...belt and suspenders)

I am scheduled to have my "new to me" GT3 in two weeks...and the antifreeze flush will happen with a flush of all fluids.


***Found it...
From Redline's website, WW tech info page...
"For best protection for aluminum, replenish
or replace every 15,000 miles"
...which, to me, means less. I don't wait 15K miles to change my oil either.

Link is here - http://www.redlineoil.com/content/fi...ech%20Info.pdf


Be good,
TomK

blake

Alright - since no one jumped on the answer to my question, I did do a search a found the following post from the esteemed Chris Walrod in an 11/27/07 post on Rennlist:

"WW's primary purpose is to raise the coolants boiling point. Corrosion resistance and water pump lubricant are other benefits. Also, adding static pressure to the coolant system will also raise the boiling point. This is the reason most racecar coolant systems have schrader valves fabricated into the system."

If WW does provide adequate corroision resistance and lube for the fuel pump, I'm in... I think I'll run it in the summer and refresh often. For the winter, I think I'll put standard coolant in the tank...

-B

ace996

I am not familiar with the esteemed Chris Walrod, but I believe this is not true. The primary purpose, in my experience, is to more effectively pull heat from the engine. WW does not do a better job of raising the cooling fluid's boiling point, it allows the system to shed heat more effectively. Actually, a water/WW mix will boil less than a 50/50 mix, but unless there is a real problem with your cooling system, you'll never reach that level.

My experience with WW has not shown the fluid to run cooler at normal temps, actually the opposite, as it pulls heat from the block at a greater level. On my bikes, normal operating temps were up about 10 degrees...
However, at higher (on track) temps, the system would go to a certain point and then stop rising...and that was at a lower temp than with 50/50 mix.
So, because the WW helps the system shed heat more effectively, I would never go above ...let's say...215degrees, when with a 50/50 mix it would run 225degrees. Normal operating temps would be 190 with the WW/water mix, the 50/50 would be 180.

Here is WW's link to their animated explanation of WW's function...
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.as...pid=74&pcid=10

It really does work, I've used it successfully for years.

And in regards to your prior question of boiling point, another paste from their website:
BOILING POINT ELEVATION
Red Line WaterWetter® does not significantly
increase the boiling point of water; however, increasing
pressure will raise the boiling point. The boiling
point of water treated with Red Line using a 15 psi
cap is 250°F compared to 265°F at 15 psi for 50%
glycol. Increasing the pressure by 50% to 23 psi will
increase the boiling point of water to 265°F. Because
of the doubling of the ability of the radiator to transfer
heat, boilover using Red Line treated water is not a
problem as long as the engine is circulating coolant
through the head and the fan is circulating air.
Sudden shutdown after very hard driving may cause
boilover.

Be good,
TomK

996FLT6

Isn't water wetter used for racing scenarios. You can't use coolant for racing so WW is used in lieu of coolant. Has neone who does not track at all like 100% street had coolant press fittings pop off? I've heard of after the track thingie press fitting blow here and there. Neway I run WW neway since car is 100% track and living in California it never gets to freezing temps. Mike

gt3'er

OK, but does anybody know if it is a DIY??

I get the impression that NOBODY has done it themselves. Probably for some good reason(s).

Thanks,

FR

ace996

There must be a drain plug (petcock?) in the system somewhere (I'm sorry, I do not have my GT3 yet to check) where you open it...it drains out and you refill. I'll do a search and try to find a DIY.