Hardwiring a V1 to your 996 GT3
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Hardwiring a V1 to your 996 GT3
***PLEASE SEE POST #15 FOR HELP WITH THIS SINCE MY DIY IS FOR THOSE CARS WITH A SUNROOF....I'LL KEEP THIS THREAD OPEN SINCE MANY GUYS HERE HAVE MULTIPLE PCARS AND CAN BENEFIT***
I decided I wanted to hardwire all my cars and since V1 sells their kit for almost $20 I decided to investigate if I could do it on my own. Turns out all you need is a standard phone cord (the kind that goes from the wall the phone). Each cord will do 2 cars. You don't need to buy any longer than a 3' cord since you will need less that 12" per kit.
First thing I did was using a multimeter I determined which of the 4 contacts on a phone cord that V1 provides is the power and which is the ground. The 2 inner of the 4 are what you are working with. The outside 2 are for other uses (I think a remote display and a memory) but you don't need them. If you are looking at the plastic connector on the phone cord with the 4 contacts on the top and the release tab on the bottom and then number them 1-4 going L to right, contact 2 is the ground and 3 is the power.
1. Remove the two infrared cover (look like tinted plastic ovals). They just pop out. Use a jewelry size screwdriver to get under and pry out.
2. Remove the 2 screws holding the overhead assembly to the roof.
3. Pry down the entire covering from the side closest to the rear of the car. It has a couple snaps that hold it up when the screws are removed.
4. Cut the phone cord you bought in half and trim to about 12" or so. (the picture posted (it's a local friend form his install last week) is not mine in case you are wondering why it doesn't look quite like mine)
5. Identify the color of the wires in spot 2 and 3 and trim strip the insulation to expose the wiring.
6. Using a multimeter verify the correct wire in the 4-wire plug that is the accessory power wire (it will read ~12V DC). In mine, the color (and it should be the same in most models since they use the same wire harnesses) is green with a red stripe. If looking down at the 4-wire plug, it is the front left one.
7. Tap into that wire with the 3 wire from the phone cord. Now you have power.
8. Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) the screw in the motor assembly up above to use as a grounding point. Wrap the 2 wire from the phone cord around the screw and tighten back down. AGAIN, DO NOT LOOSEN TO MUCH SINCE THERE IS A NUT BEHIND IT AND IT IS A B!TCH TO GET IT BACK TOGETHER!!!
9. Zip-tie the phone cord to the wiring harness as a precaution in case your V1 falls off the windshield so it can't rip out the wiring.
Voila! You're done.
Feel free to post any question if you need help.
I decided I wanted to hardwire all my cars and since V1 sells their kit for almost $20 I decided to investigate if I could do it on my own. Turns out all you need is a standard phone cord (the kind that goes from the wall the phone). Each cord will do 2 cars. You don't need to buy any longer than a 3' cord since you will need less that 12" per kit.
First thing I did was using a multimeter I determined which of the 4 contacts on a phone cord that V1 provides is the power and which is the ground. The 2 inner of the 4 are what you are working with. The outside 2 are for other uses (I think a remote display and a memory) but you don't need them. If you are looking at the plastic connector on the phone cord with the 4 contacts on the top and the release tab on the bottom and then number them 1-4 going L to right, contact 2 is the ground and 3 is the power.
1. Remove the two infrared cover (look like tinted plastic ovals). They just pop out. Use a jewelry size screwdriver to get under and pry out.
2. Remove the 2 screws holding the overhead assembly to the roof.
3. Pry down the entire covering from the side closest to the rear of the car. It has a couple snaps that hold it up when the screws are removed.
4. Cut the phone cord you bought in half and trim to about 12" or so. (the picture posted (it's a local friend form his install last week) is not mine in case you are wondering why it doesn't look quite like mine)
5. Identify the color of the wires in spot 2 and 3 and trim strip the insulation to expose the wiring.
6. Using a multimeter verify the correct wire in the 4-wire plug that is the accessory power wire (it will read ~12V DC). In mine, the color (and it should be the same in most models since they use the same wire harnesses) is green with a red stripe. If looking down at the 4-wire plug, it is the front left one.
7. Tap into that wire with the 3 wire from the phone cord. Now you have power.
8. Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) the screw in the motor assembly up above to use as a grounding point. Wrap the 2 wire from the phone cord around the screw and tighten back down. AGAIN, DO NOT LOOSEN TO MUCH SINCE THERE IS A NUT BEHIND IT AND IT IS A B!TCH TO GET IT BACK TOGETHER!!!
9. Zip-tie the phone cord to the wiring harness as a precaution in case your V1 falls off the windshield so it can't rip out the wiring.
Voila! You're done.
Feel free to post any question if you need help.
Last edited by LVDell; 01-19-2011 at 03:21 PM.
#2
Looks good! I went another route and ran the wire down the a-pillar and under the steering column to the free telephone plug hidden behind the center console. Found the constant power and tapped into it.
#3
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Thanks Joey
Yes, that is also another way to do it. IIRC the phone power down in the middle console is switched/accessory power not constant. I used it to hardwire a hidden cig lighter plug for my gps/traqmate/etc.
Yes, that is also another way to do it. IIRC the phone power down in the middle console is switched/accessory power not constant. I used it to hardwire a hidden cig lighter plug for my gps/traqmate/etc.
#4
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Dell well done! I will send you my airlift remote control and 'll you wire it for the dash for me ok ? : )
ps. This thread should be archived in the DIY.
ps. This thread should be archived in the DIY.
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#8
Yep, you are correct it is switched power. That is how I wanted it though, comes on when its turned on accessory / car is started. I will make a DIY of it soon
#9
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Joey, the wire I tapped into is also a switched power. This allowed me to keep everything up in the housing rather than having to run wiring down to the center console.
#10
It is good to know there area several ways to do it! I didn't mind running it down as i had an extended cord from my previous car anyway.
#12
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Dell and I had a short exchange offline on this. Since I'm such a numb-nut on anything electrical, I asked him to what motor assembly he was referring to in 8. above. He's pursuing a solution for GT3 fans as his above DIY is for his sunroof-equipped Turbo, which, of course, has a motor for operation.
So, Joey, how about a pic of where you tapped in? For us numb-nuts.
So, Joey, how about a pic of where you tapped in? For us numb-nuts.
#14
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No sunroof
Dell found some time as promised.. : )
Here is what it looks for non sunroof cars.
The only quick way I found that can be used as a grounding point, is to use a connector like the one attached below and slide under the oem clip (either the left or the right) and then use the oem bolt to secure it.
Didn't have time to test the cables of the interior lights for positive but I think that it would work since they have a decent fuse attached and are working with the ignition, as a switched power.
Here is what it looks for non sunroof cars.
The only quick way I found that can be used as a grounding point, is to use a connector like the one attached below and slide under the oem clip (either the left or the right) and then use the oem bolt to secure it.
Didn't have time to test the cables of the interior lights for positive but I think that it would work since they have a decent fuse attached and are working with the ignition, as a switched power.
#15
Rennlist Member
Guys, BTDT!
Dome light in 6GT3s is usable, but NOT switched power.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...r-console.html
Center console connector has both switched and unswitched power. Subsequent to my posting, I bought the Becker connector instead of using those pins to connect to the center console.
Brown = Ground
Red / Green = Unswitched 12 volts
Green / Black = Switched 12 volts
Yellow / Black = Telephone Mute
edit: cross-posted thread in the 996 forum which has the info on the Becker connector:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-console.html
Dome light in 6GT3s is usable, but NOT switched power.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...r-console.html
Center console connector has both switched and unswitched power. Subsequent to my posting, I bought the Becker connector instead of using those pins to connect to the center console.
Brown = Ground
Red / Green = Unswitched 12 volts
Green / Black = Switched 12 volts
Yellow / Black = Telephone Mute
edit: cross-posted thread in the 996 forum which has the info on the Becker connector:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-console.html
Last edited by cchan; 01-19-2011 at 06:00 PM. Reason: added thread wth Becker info