FRUNKenstein

Every old car I have in my garage could probably generate a $10k "to do" list. You just prioritize the jobs, DIY as much as you can (which saves not only labor, but also more than you'd think on parts) and live with the stuff that can wait. If you are actually going to drive the car, there will always be a "to do" list because stuff breaks and wears out.

Low $20k's in the UK for a targa with relatively low miles is not overpaying for the car, even if it has some stuff that needs attention. Even if you take a top-dollar, pristine garage queen in for a thorough PPI, they'll find something wrong with it. There are always parts that are part way through their life cycle that could need to be replaced because someday it will fail. And as Kalash says, on an old car, you oftentimes just top off the fluids and live with some leaks, otherwise you'll always be chasing drops. Every car sitting in the museum downstairs from my office has a drip pan under it. EVERY car (and we have some really nice ones in there).

Luke Reid

I have had a second inspection and opinion from a local Indy and the outcome seems much better. First of all is I do have a decent car, albeit that some maintenance items have been left longer than a long term owner would accept. I spent an hour at the Indy and they had the car up on the ramps and gave it a full test drive too. Interestingly neither of them agree on what are the priority items but they are not a million miles away.

OPC must suggestions;
Front Suspension overhaul
Exhaust system
Metal Coolant hoses replaced (engine out)
Chain tensioner
PAS crimps
Non genuine battery replaced
Badges on centre caps loose

Indy must suggestions
Brake overhaul (was advisory on OPC)
Clutch replacement
IMS bearing (LN only because clutch will be out)
RMS seal and chain tensioner
A/C not working
Exhaust brackets (exhaust is ok)

They weren't a million miles apart, what the Indy had as 'could' the OPC had as 'must' and vice versa. I had a long chat with the Indy and he said it depended on what I wanted to do long term with the car. I could probably drive it for 12 - 18 months with some minor work but if I want to keep it long term then I should look at the big items and some preventative maintenance. My gut feeling (and I have been wrong before) is that I am more aligned with the Indy - they picked up on the things I would have addressed in the car first and even let me know that the clutch could be on it's way out at 63K (too stiff and juddery) I want to keep the car for a number of years so I'm booking it in for about $5k worth of remedial action but then I should have a reliable and drivable car for years to come. The Indy also confirmed that I have the switchable sports exhaust system although there is no switch and the actators are stuck on loud! I'm fine with that. Thanks for all the advice - sure I am making the right decision. I had budgeted for some additional work - just not as much as I am finding but I am relieved that I haven't bought a turkey this far away from Xmas

JimmyB

Tony, my Indy found on installation that the O2 sensor ports were in the wrong place, so they put bungs in and machined new ports in the correct location. No idea if the error was mine, by ordering the wrong exhaust, or Design911's. But it was cheap, and so was the fix, so I didn't mind.

OP - glad you've found yourself a decent Indy to look after the car. My experience is that the OPC will hit you for everything under the sun that your car might possibly need to return to showroom condition. A good Indy will tell you what you need to keep driving and help you schedule stuff. A bad Indy will try to rip you off with stuff you don't need.

I also bought my car on impulse without PPI, and found a bad Indy before I found a good one. Thankfully I didn't spend much at the first place ... and despite going against my better judgement and buying the car without a PPI I think I got a good 'un.

docmirror

One man's opinion, but I don't care for the word 'xxxxx overhaul'. Things wear of course, and if some wear component(like control arm bushings) then they are replaced. But, it seems silly to remove and replace good working shocks. I would pin down the two shops and ask them specifically what they want to replace with their 'overhaul' comment.

As for brakes, if the rotors are in spec, and the pads are worn, this is not an 'overhaul' this is just a brake job. I wonder if it's a matter of lexicon. Front brake pads are a $200 job, and can be done with simple tools in a an hour. A brake 'overhaul' to me is much more involved and could cost over $700 or more. I also don't get a new clutch at 63k miles. My car is coming up on 90k with orig clutch and it works fine. Of course, it could be that the prev owner didn't know how to drive a stick shift, but unless the clutch plate is slipping in third gear, I would just wait.

TonyTwoBags

Fully agree with you, even a brake overhaul can be done for a reasonable sum as a DIY with a little patience & effort. I use this, even though the articles are free on pelican (easier to use a book outside than my laptop).




Thanks Jimmy & ditto - I bought mine after a spirited loop on the beltway. It was too smooth to pass up! Carfax history & overall condition sold me on the spot. Luckily my judgment was verified during the subsequent PPI.

OP, Not sure what your technical ability is & apologies if already covered but:

Indy must suggestions
Brake overhaul (was advisory on OPC) - respect the input & get specifics on which parts are worse off (rotors, calipers, pads, brake lines?)
Clutch replacement - just go for it, fits with the IMS & RMS
IMS bearing (LN only because clutch will be out)
RMS seal and chain tensioner - Def agree with this as it came up on both & can degrade the internals if compromised
A/C not working - all about your preference
Exhaust brackets (exhaust is ok) - might as well given low cost


Good luck, this isn't as bad as I thought after first reading the thread.

318touring

Luke, mate

OPC, like other dealer garages will provide quotes on the basis of returning the car to its original condition.

"Non genuine battery replaced" is just bollocks - this is not late model BMW where it needs a special battery.

With "A/C not working" you'll also want to see whether the condensers at the front of the car have been leaking (hint: remove the front bumper). A gas recharge will be a total waste if they were. You'll need to budget for a dryer if your A/C system has been exposed i.e. taking a condenser out.

You might find locally focused recommendation at 911uk forum.

808Bill

I agree, It does sound less fatal and you'll be rewarded for the TLC you'll put in to it...Happy Motoring!

KoB

I bought my car with a bit under 60k on it ... as part of the purchase it needed a new clutch AND a new flywheel. My guess would be that PO didn't have a clue how to drive a stick, but who knows? I do know of other 996 owners who have had to replace clutches at similar or lower mileage.

Luke Reid

Thanks all for the advice. I'm not that handy with spanners but maybe this is the time to start again. Thirty odd years of sending cars to dealers for service has left me rusty although I did change the heater blower on an my Cayenne S. So I will confirm with the Indy and have the engine an brake work done, then get that workshop manual and start maintaining the DIY items myself.

Luke Reid

I fully agree - keeping my eye on the market and I'm more than happy with my purchase.

Luke Reid

Discs are corroded so it's a major job - I'm getting the Indy to detail the work. Interesting on the clutch as it doesn't bother me at the moment but maybe I just have strong legs! But some of the other work (RMS, IMS chain tensioner etc.) is good to combine with clutch replacement so maybe it's worth it overall as part of preventative maintenance.

Luke Reid

Thanks - and fully agree. I was considering to leave the A/C till later as I can always open the roof if it's that hot - definitely have some leaking so you have saved me a recharge. I'm on 911UK but only introduced myself so far. Cheers

docmirror

Good to get a detail of what gets replaced. as for the clutch, the best way to test, is to put the car in 4th gear, at about 1500RPM, then open the throttle fully, and accelerate. If the clutch slips, it will start around 3000 or so and you'll notice the revs increasing faster than the car. If it's a problem with pedal pressure, that could be hydraulic, or release bearing, or the springs on the pressure plate. Need to be investigated before tearing apart. But, plenty of cars are driven by people who ride the clutch and burn off the friction surface. I can make a clutch last 150k miles on almost any car.

Luke Reid

I tried that today and didn't get any slipping. Hard to tell if pedal pressure is high unless I go joy riding in a few other cars. I see quite a few new owners take the route of immediate clutch and IMS fix as preventative action so maybe that'a just recommended where the background is unknown. I'm booked in for next Monday but still choosing from the menu items. What price peace of mind eh?

docmirror

There ya go. Have fun, and I completely understand about peace of mind(or piece of mind). That's what has kept my car in the garage most of this winter. I'm considering yanking the IMS again and just get it done so I don't have that nagging worry anymore. It's like a toothache that you want to just finally be rid of. Good luck.