Schnell Gelb

" I opened the split pinion bearing and saw that there was only a bit of yellowish grease Inside."
Regardless of the quantity of grease (which may or may not be insufficient?) ,you could do no harm by removing the seals imho.
Why? Because eventually those seals deteriorate .Just like the IMSB seal problem, the deteriorated seals allow the grease to drip out but prevent enough oil entering to replace it. While driving there must be a huge oil shower/mist atmosphere in the gearbox and that will never change - unlike the seals/grease. So hopefully that shower of oil flung up by the rotating gears will lubricate the bearings.

am

I also think it will be ok with seals out. I was surprised when I opened the bearing. I was sure that I would see Porsche's magic grease like they used to put in the original bearing. Instead there was just a bit of kind of assembling grease. I'm very glad I removed the seals. I will do the same with the main shaft bearing seals

am

Tonight I continued the reassembling and I found the 3 little springs and ball that Nick Hend was talking about in his DIY
When I pressed back the second gear assembly I probably did'nt hold everything well and a fraction of a second one of the springs went out and broke 3 sprungs.
I hope it won't be a too long delay to get a new spring.
I released the needle bearing and cut the tie wraps cause it's not dangerous to loose the needles out. They can only fall from the inside. So it's to be handled with care and don't remove the Inside race. The second gear assy has been too hard to put back in place. Around 12 tons of pressure for the pressed gear. For the rest it was just to align the splines and tap in slowly and it is a good suggestion not to do that step alone like I did. At this point I'm not completely sure of the depth of the green needle bearing but I'll have the answer when I'll continue.

am

Here is the secondary shaft totally reassembled. I found a spring and fixed my problem. I'm not sur I caused that problem. Maybe it was like that before.
I was very nervous that I did'nt presse everything deep enough on the shaft but at the end it was a perfect fit with the C clip

Here are the specs of the pipes I used to press everything.

First a pipe of 53mm ID X 16 inch long. It takes a thick enough pipe like 1/8 of an inch.
Second a pipe of 47mm ID X 11 inch long.
And third and last a pipe of 36mm ID X 5 inch long.

I'm done with this shaft. Everything works well on it. There are still a couple of difficult steps to come like to put back the two shaft assemblies in the tranny case and to put back the nose cone correctly.

Schnell Gelb

Well done ! The dimensions of the pipes you used for pressing are very useful.
For those south of the border I'll try to convert .I do not know how critical the i.d. measurements given by am are so got as close as possible and went a little larger if necessary.
1/8" wall thickness = 1/4"i.d./o.d. = 6.35mm difference i.d./o.d.

1, The first pipe is 53mm i.d. pipe +7mm is 60mm o.d.
An N.P.S. 2" pipe Sch. 30 is 53.9mm i.d. x 60.3mm o.d.

2.The second pipe is 47mm i.d. pipe + 7mm is 54mm o.d.
An N.P.S. 2" Sch. 120 (beefy!) is 47+mm i.d. x 60.33mm o.d.

3. The third pipe is 36mm i.d. pipe +7mm is 43mm o.d.
An N.P.S. 1-1/4" Sch, 30 pipe is 36.16 mm i.d. x 42.16 mm o.d.
This wall is less than 1/8" so the beffier alternative would be :
An N.P.S. 1-1/2" Sch 80 is 38mm i.d. x 48mm o.d.
Check some tables and do your own math before you order !!
I suspect that some of the pipes that am used were old U.S. standard sizes?

am

I can't tell you. I took what I found at work that would do the job. The longest and the shortest pipes had the same thickness. I did'nt mention the thickness of the middle one cause I used a stainless pipe that was an outside ramp before. It was thin but been stainless it was very strong. The first pipe is the most important for the thickness. I began with a thin pipe and it soon turned as a trumpet
I forgot to mention that like Nick mentioned in his DIY I removed the reverse and first gear assy in one shot then the second gear assy in another step. I had to press the parts of these assemblies one by one to know well what I was doing. The trickiest part was the needle bearings. We must take care not to separate them from the center ring or the needles will fall apart.

am

Here's the main shaft bearing back on the shaft.
Pretty easy to put back. I used a 12 inch pipe. 42.5 mm OD (1 5/8'') 36.5 mm ID (1 7/16)

Schnell Gelb

This is a link to the related discussion about alternative (cheaper) sourcing of the bearings:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post13985434

am

Heres is the tranny case with the shafts back in. I heated the case with a heater and I've put the shafts outside during that time (cause it's around 15f outside) As soon as I have been able to thread the torx bolts in I used them to press the bearings In slowly. I cleaned the threads of the case and torx bolts and put blue Loctite in. Torqued at 22 nm.
Then I've put back the fork shafts.

Schnell Gelb

Looks great .The large outdoor freezer was a creative move !
How long before other Rennlisters start sending you their gearboxes ? You could have a side business based on this thread.

am

Lol I don't think I would do that in someone else car. Too much responsabilities but so funny work to do
By the way the tranny job has cost me around $900 including the 2 bearings, one shim, and all new seals.

am

A few more tricks to close this thread for the last part : Nose cone reassembly.
I attached the short shifter lever with a wire (photo1) and inclined the tranny like on photo 2.
I've put a little bit of grease on the kind or round washer (guide) that is held only with gravity at this point.
I 've droped the nose cone slowly while taking care not to loose the round washer and that it places well on the middle fork shaft lever. I also took care that this fork shaft stays at it's place during the operation.
It is much tricky and took me around 30 minutes to succeed. Once well placed I lifted the nose cone about 1/2 inch to clean again and put Permatex 51813 and closed. I torqued the nose cone bolts to 25 nm.

At this time the engine and tranny are back in the car with almost everything connected back. The next step will be the test drive but not before at least five more weeks of winter
I hope this thread will help many peoples. If ever more informations are needed feel free to contact me.

am

Forgot to mention that after the rebuilt, my transmission feels fine and sounds good. It shifts (by hand of course) great in all gears.

Ahsai

What a great thread and contribution to the community!

I'm sure it will be very helpful to a lot of people me included. My tranny has some intermittent rattle at idle. It will go away if I press in the clutch or if I put it in neutral and pull the shifter slightly toward the rear of the car. I can reproduce the rattle if I rock the long shift arm under the car (when engine is off). Seems a lot of free-play.

I can imagine how difficult to align everything to install the nose cone. Makes you wonder how they do that in the factory. Maybe some kind of alignment tool to stabilize the shift rods?

am

Ok today was THE DAY. I finally made my first road test and my transmission is quiet like a brand new one
It shifts perfectly well like before the rebuild.
Good luck to all who will use this DIY and contact me if You need help I'll do my best to help.