nickdee62

I took the crank to my crankshaft guy. Because oversize bearings are not available, he wouldn't touch it. So.... I polished and polished and polished.


I have a nice parts washer and I've been cleaning debris as best I can. The oil cooler is getting pitched because that's impossible. I'm cleaning the lifters in mineral spirits with compressed air. Those worry me the most right now

As far as oil pressure, for the three years I've had this beast, the gauge was always low at idle. I like Imo000's theory best, but my tensioners are all 100% Everyone here agrees number one was oil starved somehow. The connecting rod bore and bolts show no sign of stretching, but you can see evidence of heat build up.

Any ideas on why the thrust washers popped out? Crank end play is in tolerance with a mock up of new washers.

Imo000

The debris in the screen was plastic?
Is that polished journal round, flat from one side to the other and free from bearing material? Is the cranks straight (they tend to bend when a bearing is spun)?

nickdee62

My crank guy wouldn't even check it for straightness because he said he'd be at a loss on getting it straight.

The best I can tell on a couple of vblocks with my dial indicator on the mains, it's good in straightness. As far as the journal goes, with my best mic I get the same diameter all around. I've got all the old bearing material cleaned up (about an hour per journal).

I'm thinking now that maybe the thrust washers spit out first, broke the plastic IMS wiper cage (its damaged) and those frags are what you saw. Sound feasible?

Imo000

The colour of the plastic bits fromt he pick up screen matches the missing chain ramp material? What does the thrust washer recess in the bearing carrier looks like? Any signs from the washer getting ejected?

nickdee62

The bearing carrier is completely undamaged. The pick up screen is mostly clogged with sheared bearing material from the number one rod bearing.

As best as I can measure, the original thrust washers were worn about .005 - .009 each compared to my new ones.

Jmrjimbo

I spun a bearing on my crank from the connecting rod bolts loosening up. Took my crank to Eds Crankshaft in Hayward, CA. He welded up the journal, re ground to spec and straightened. I think it was about $250.

AWDGuy

^good info!

Imo000

How long has the crankshaft been back in service? Has it been heat treated in any way?

JohnCA58

Ed's crank work has been doing great work for many years, we had him do work on some 15 liter cranks work... they know what they are doing, you just can't cheap out , have it done right. we were losing cranks to mechanics using 3M cleaning rotary pads on oil coolers and seal housing and the particles were very hard from the pads. finally had to remove all pad from every shop.

I want to add these cranks will see a million miles at 18.0:1 compression ratio

nickdee62

Pistons cleaned of carbon with Easy Off and then dunked in the parts washer. Not bad for 60K miles.






Cases washed with my power washers and bore brushes. Couldn't find anyone local who would chemically clean them so I did it myself.

I never realized how many people freak out when you say the P word. "A Porsche? No, I won't touch it."

Parts on order from Pelican, Suncoast and PartsContainer. Assembly starts when they all arrive.

I've had my hands in lots of engines, but I must admit this thing is about as weird as they come

nickdee62

Here's the happy ending. Less than $2400 in new parts

Woodman71

Great photos, glad you are back on the road. 80 hours of labor though, is that about right?

nickdee62

Yep, 80 hours of active shop time. Lots more doing research and finding parts Thanks!

Jmrjimbo

It's been 3k miles since this rebuild. All rod bolts replaced with ARP.