Anyone purchased a single-post "portable" garage lift?
#16
i dont recall all the details as this was a few years ago but i know my concrete was not thick enough according to their specs and I didnt know the psi or whatever they were asking about so I was going to dig it up to be on the safe side
divorce or jackstands ... jackstands were cheaper lol
the maxjack is a great product though I would love to have one
divorce or jackstands ... jackstands were cheaper lol
the maxjack is a great product though I would love to have one
#17
Race Director
#18
Drifting
Garage Journal has all the details on how to attach Lifts when the concrete is too thin/weak. It is not difficult. But it is hard work !
Here is an example with a 993
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=181935
Here is an example with a 993
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=181935
#19
#21
Drifting
Check out the Backyard Buddy. It's moveable and doesn't require anchors. But it's a 4-post as opposed to a single. I don't own one but am seriously interested in buying one to turn my 3-car garage into a 4-car.
#23
Rennlist Member
"Backyard Buddy"... I wonder who the advertising genius who came up with that name was?... Don Draper?
#24
Rennlist Member
I ended up going with the Ranger Quickjack.
I had the same problem of not being able to verify slab strength.
I really like the quickjack, I was worried it would be a bit flimsy but it is pretty robust. I still have to get on the ground, but I have enough clearance to move about comfortably.
I had the same problem of not being able to verify slab strength.
I really like the quickjack, I was worried it would be a bit flimsy but it is pretty robust. I still have to get on the ground, but I have enough clearance to move about comfortably.
#25
Burning Brakes
I've been using the EZCarlift for about 8 years now. Bought it on the group buy we had here. Straight up, straight down, in micro adjustments. No having to move the car to exactly the right place. Think we paid like $1200 shipped back then. Was just using it again yesterday on the Mini Cooper. Highly recommend them, if they are still available.
#26
Rennlist Member
I have two 4-post lifts in my 3-car garage, so I can put 5 cars in there. If I were doing it all over again, I'd have one 4-post lift and one either 2-post or 1-post like this one. I like the 4-post lifts, but the runners get in the way of doing some maintenance. Although you can use a jack tray, it would be easier to do wheels-off maintenance on a 2-post or 1-post lift. If I could have just one lift, I'd probably choose the 4-post lift, though.
#27
Drifting
I have two 4-post lifts in my 3-car garage, so I can put 5 cars in there. If I were doing it all over again, I'd have one 4-post lift and one either 2-post or 1-post like this one. I like the 4-post lifts, but the runners get in the way of doing some maintenance. Although you can use a jack tray, it would be easier to do wheels-off maintenance on a 2-post or 1-post lift. If I could have just one lift, I'd probably choose the 4-post lift, though.
#28
Looks to me like the fasteners let go of the concrete as opposed to the concrete failing. If it's your garage, tie the upper ends of the posts to the joists above them. Safety wise that is mucho better than cantilevering the posts on the floor. Shops with high ceilings can't do that.
The garage man in the link that cut out part of his floor, well he put the long part of the rebar 90 degrees off of where it would do the most good.
Almost any post 1980 poured garage floor can take the compression load of a decent size car and lift split across two posts. if the tops are tied to structure so it doesn't start to lean.
The garage man in the link that cut out part of his floor, well he put the long part of the rebar 90 degrees off of where it would do the most good.
Almost any post 1980 poured garage floor can take the compression load of a decent size car and lift split across two posts. if the tops are tied to structure so it doesn't start to lean.
#29
I ended up going with the Ranger Quickjack.
I had the same problem of not being able to verify slab strength.
I really like the quickjack, I was worried it would be a bit flimsy but it is pretty robust. I still have to get on the ground, but I have enough clearance to move about comfortably.
I had the same problem of not being able to verify slab strength.
I really like the quickjack, I was worried it would be a bit flimsy but it is pretty robust. I still have to get on the ground, but I have enough clearance to move about comfortably.
I am about 90% convinced on one of those, but do you know if it goes high enough to drop the motor/trans assembly?
#30
Rennlist Member
Dropping trans would be no problem, engine will be tight but I have a contingency for that.
My plan for if/when I need to drop the motor will be to use the "SUV" riser blocks. It will take me doing a partial lift of the car, lower car with wheels on back down onto wheel riser blocks. Place the quick jack SUV riser extensions in then lift to the higher height.
The portable aspect of the quickjack was not appealing to me till I had the system in my hands. Knowing that I can now take it to my Father in laws house, buddies garage, or to the parking lot of one of my business is a really nice perk.
I really like to be able to open the doors freely when the car is in the air. Being able to open the doors made changing the door latch mechanism a breeze being at eye level when seated on my stool. Also makes polishing the car at a comfortable standing height rather than hunched over.
Some point I will have a larger garage again and will have a two post installed, but I will keep the quickjack around for sure when that day comes.