rockhouse66

I have a set of new OEM GT3 lug bolts for sale. They are 5mm longer than stock - not sure if that causes an issue when used without spacers? Anyway, they are heavily discounted from new Porsche prices and would be better quality than eBay parts.

https://rennlist.com/forums/parts-ma...mm-spacer.html

GTsilber

Got the thermostat and WP in place - used old bolts just to hold it in place for now.

GTsilber

****ing amazing - was tightening a brand new WP bolt, one of the longer ones, and it snapped off. If anyone wants a 2002 c4s let me know.

GTsilber

Heres the back of the pump you can see the bottom of the bolt protruding, and now there's coolant dripping from that area.

GTsilber

​​​​​​After removing the pump here's what I'm working with, there's about 1/2" of bolt showing, can I try to cut a slit on the screw with a dremel?

Sneaky Pete

I'd try to get a couple nuts on it and use a socket wrench to get it out. By chance did you put a longer bolt in there and it bottomed out? Good luck!

GTsilber

When I removed the old bolts from the WP I put them into the new pump so I wouldn't mess up the placement. This bolt is one of the 2 longer bolts on the WP, unless the previous mechanic used the wrong bolt size on this hole I think the size is correct, it was also confirmed by Porsche parts department.

I found this tool which I just ordered, hope this works, I've never had success with easy outs or left handed drill bits:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A2ADIIKJ97TE1O

Ahsai

A pair of vise grip plier may work. You may want to use a thread chaser to clean out the hole after you remove the broken bolt. Just be very careful not to mar the mating surface.

Are you using an inlb torque wrench?

GTsilber

​​​pliers worked. Yes, using 1/4" in/lb torque wrench, I set it to 90 in/lb but it never clicked.

dgjks6

Nothing helpful to add. Just feeling for you, brother. Every repair I do seems to go along the same lines as your repair. The hard stuff - like diagnosing the problem is easy, and the easy stuff - like getting the wheels off and bolting up a new part - is impossible. Keep at it and keep posting. You will get there eventually.

GTsilber

It really is frustrating, but in a weird way a challenge. The reason I choose to do most repairs myself is for the ability to better understand my car, the reassurance that the job is done correctly with the best parts, and to try and save some money. This job has made me realize a lot about this particular car and the complexity of the work involved. Tasks on the 996 require finesse and tact, brute force won't work... preparation and knowledge are the only tools you really need.

Slakker

Ahsai

Hang in there. You're absolutely right that one needs finesse, especially dealng with those small m6 bolts. You may want to check your torque wrench for accuracy. 90inlb shouldn't be enogh to twist the bolt head off like that.

GTsilber

I think I need to start a separate build thread for mods - installed b&m ssk last night as well as fabspeed intake kit.

Tonight I revisited the radiator as I'm still waiting for my WP bolts. Upon further inspection, I decided I could remove the passenger rad, with the wheels on, by removing the radiator housing bolts and then disconnecting hoses and sliding the rad out and underneath the condenser. I removed 3 radiator housing bolts, one on the inside wheel well, one near the center front bumper and one just under the lower radiator hose. After much manipulation I got the rad out with the fan still attached. I ordered new hoses but my current ones don't look bad at all, will still replace though.

philooo

I really doubt you need 90ft/lb on these screws, as far as I recall the oil pan required like 18f/lb on the screws, which is very low torque is required considering the part is already glued to the engine and that the engine is all aluminum aka fragile. May be someone has the manual to give the proper torque, I would say it is around 30ft/lb max.