What should " Actual Angle for Camshaft " readings be to be within spec?
09-27-2016, 10:43 AM
#1
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What should " Actual Angle for Camshaft " readings be to be within spec?
Hello all,
This is a continuing repair to what started as a camshaft deviation out of spec leading to the replacement of the chain tensioner pads / brake pads / chain ramps on my 2000 911 - 996 5-Chain engine.
That odyssey has since been resolved but I now have a new issue.
Quick background:
Removed camshafts, readjusted the camshaft chain timing "marker" positions, replaced tensioner pads, reassembled everything per factory specs.
On first start up got very rough idle and bad misfires. At first I thought it may have been my timing was off but went back and visually inspected all and all looked correct (visually) Upon further inspection realized parts guy had given me Bosch 7403 plugs instead of Bosch 7413.
Current issue:
Switched out and installed the correct spark plugs and no more continuous misfires / backfires. Did the initial reset (wait 1 min with ignition on / turn ignition off / wait 10 sec) On the first start up it misfired / back fired once but I assumed that was left over fuel.
Car now runs but very rough and threw 2 codes:
- P0300 : Porsche Fault code 62 - Misfire damaging cat. converter
- P0301 : Porsche fault code Cylinder 1 misfire damaging to cat. converter
Also, took these readings:
Actual angle for camshaft bank 1: -12.53
Actual angle for camshaft bank 2: 3.05
On positive note the main reason for doing all this work was the original problem / issue of tensioner / brake pad wear which was giving me a -10 / -2.92 reading is now:
Camshaft position 1 deviation: 0.00
Camshaft position 2 deviation: 0.00
So the question is now are the Actual angle for camshaft readings within specs and could incorrect timing be attributed to these new issues?
And... Do I have to give the DME time to "relearn"?
Txs all
This is a continuing repair to what started as a camshaft deviation out of spec leading to the replacement of the chain tensioner pads / brake pads / chain ramps on my 2000 911 - 996 5-Chain engine.
That odyssey has since been resolved but I now have a new issue.
Quick background:
Removed camshafts, readjusted the camshaft chain timing "marker" positions, replaced tensioner pads, reassembled everything per factory specs.
On first start up got very rough idle and bad misfires. At first I thought it may have been my timing was off but went back and visually inspected all and all looked correct (visually) Upon further inspection realized parts guy had given me Bosch 7403 plugs instead of Bosch 7413.
Current issue:
Switched out and installed the correct spark plugs and no more continuous misfires / backfires. Did the initial reset (wait 1 min with ignition on / turn ignition off / wait 10 sec) On the first start up it misfired / back fired once but I assumed that was left over fuel.
Car now runs but very rough and threw 2 codes:
- P0300 : Porsche Fault code 62 - Misfire damaging cat. converter
- P0301 : Porsche fault code Cylinder 1 misfire damaging to cat. converter
Also, took these readings:
Actual angle for camshaft bank 1: -12.53
Actual angle for camshaft bank 2: 3.05
On positive note the main reason for doing all this work was the original problem / issue of tensioner / brake pad wear which was giving me a -10 / -2.92 reading is now:
Camshaft position 1 deviation: 0.00
Camshaft position 2 deviation: 0.00
So the question is now are the Actual angle for camshaft readings within specs and could incorrect timing be attributed to these new issues?
And... Do I have to give the DME time to "relearn"?
Txs all
09-27-2016, 01:05 PM
#2
Just a couple of questions to check when you timed the cams, firstly ,did you have the dots on the cams facing upward with the correct amount of links between the two dots?? ( I think it's six free links but can check)
Also after timing in bank one did you rotate crank 360 degrees before timing bank two cams, this is a common mistake people make and use the tool on both banks without doing the 360 degree crank rotation Inbetween , if you didn't do this, going back and retiming including this will solve your issue.
Also after timing in bank one did you rotate crank 360 degrees before timing bank two cams, this is a common mistake people make and use the tool on both banks without doing the 360 degree crank rotation Inbetween , if you didn't do this, going back and retiming including this will solve your issue.
09-27-2016, 01:16 PM
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Just a couple of questions to check when you timed the cams, firstly ,did you have the dots on the cams facing upward with the correct amount of links between the two dots?? ( I think it's six free links but can check)
Also after timing in bank one did you rotate crank 360 degrees before timing bank two cams, this is a common mistake people make and use the tool on both banks without doing the 360 degree crank rotation Inbetween , if you didn't do this, going back and retiming including this will solve your issue.
Also after timing in bank one did you rotate crank 360 degrees before timing bank two cams, this is a common mistake people make and use the tool on both banks without doing the 360 degree crank rotation Inbetween , if you didn't do this, going back and retiming including this will solve your issue.
Yes to all of the above. Also double checked the markings on both banks twice after 2 full rotations after confirmation.
09-27-2016, 05:18 PM
#4
Is yours a C4? If not, you have the cabled-throttle and the "initial reset" (e-gas calibration) doesn't apply to your engine. If you have cabled-throttle, you want to clean the idle stabilizer thoroughly.
I would change out all the coils. I think the actual angles should be close to 0 at idle but that's just from my memory. Since you reset the DME, the cam deviation will be all reset to 0, until they are remeasured. Not sure when the new values will be ready. Did you use the cam locking tool (a piece of U shape steel for your model) to verify the cam timing? Looks like your bank 1 timing is off? Keep in mind it doesn't take much to get 12 degree off (i.e., 6 degree on the cam end slot). It's hard to detect visually.
I would change out all the coils. I think the actual angles should be close to 0 at idle but that's just from my memory. Since you reset the DME, the cam deviation will be all reset to 0, until they are remeasured. Not sure when the new values will be ready. Did you use the cam locking tool (a piece of U shape steel for your model) to verify the cam timing? Looks like your bank 1 timing is off? Keep in mind it doesn't take much to get 12 degree off (i.e., 6 degree on the cam end slot). It's hard to detect visually.
