Youri Ko

Hello everybody,
Just came back from the dealer, picked up the latest rms seal to replace mine.

Lookin at it, there are four small ridges, like it was cast in plastic and broken off later. Is it normal? Got me worried, seems like the ridges are right where the seal is suppose to ride on the crank!?

Anyone who installed it themselves can chime in?

Ahsai

The blue collar is there to protect the seal and it will need to be removed during installation.

Youri Ko

LOOOOLLL - now I feel stupid

Any other useful tips? Tool fabrication? (Home depot style)

Ahsai

It shows you pay attention to details

JFP, John, on Renntech mentioned using a pvc pipe coupler of the right size as the rms tool but I forgot the size. You may want to search there.

I bought a delrin tool machined to the correct bore and depth as a driver to install the seal but I have not used it yet. It should work well though according to others.

Macster

I've never installed a Porsche RMS but I've installed seals in other engines and fabrications/machine tools, and I used a properly sized section of PVC pipe/tube.

To the OP: Take the RMS with you to a well-stocked plumbing supply store or hardware store and see if you can find the right size of PVC to use.

A tip to install the RMS: Do not install the new seal to the same depth as the old seal. The old seal probably left a groove in the crank journal and if the new seal ends up at this spot the new seal will leak. Either install the new seal a bit deeper than the old seal or a bit shallower. Since the old seal was probably installed all the way into the block the new seal wants to be a bit short of all the way in.

Youri Ko

Yeah, thanks Mcmaster, I just stumbled upon a post where JPF from Renntech explains how to use a 4" coupler with flywheel bolts to drive the seal in - no fabrications is required whatsoever.
The old seal, I believe was too much in anyway, and it looks like an aftermarket seal .

I've also noticed the extensive use of non OEM looking case bolts everywhere on this engine. I have no history and the engine only has around 55k, but would this suggest a rebuilt? No letters were added at the engine VIN

Macster

Non OEM bolts could be explained if someone had the engine apart.

However, I'm not familiar with the bolts and what (if any) variation there can be on the bolts used in engines that come from the factory thus the non OEM looking bolts could be normal.

What letters were added to the engine VIN (aka serial #)? Porsche factory rebuilt/remanufactured engines at an "AT" added to the engine VIN (serial number), IIRC.

alpine003

Just beware if you don't use the factory tool, you may get unlucky and get leaks if not done 100%. Heck, even if you do use factory tool and the operator is careless, you can still have leaks. Ask me how I know.

Ok, someone needs to develop a "faultless" RMS tool. lol

Imo000

As Macster said, do nto install it in the same spot as the old one.

Youri Ko

I'll do by best and take my time , heck, they are on their 5th revision or something on that seal!

So, it's 13mm from flywheel mating surface to the seal face where writings are?

meirschwartz

These are not aftermarket bolts, and this is not an aftermarket seal.
It's just the older version that came with the car.
The new seal should be installed to a depth of 13 mm from the lip of the case, and the bolts should be replaced with the new version that is incapsolated and has "star" head. 4 bolts in total.

rockhouse66

There is info on Renntech that describes using a PVC coupler and the internal ridges to pull the seal in with bolts rather than hammering it in. I think it mentions a 4" coupler but it is wrong and maybe 3" is correct. Take the seal with you to the plumbing department and you will figure it out.

Ahsai

^This

billyboy

I used an end cap for 3" ABS pipe. Actual dimension is 4" o.d and it works really well. I think it was about $5 at the hardware store. I just drilled the 4 holes and used the flywheel bolts to draw it in nice and square.

Youri Ko

@billiboy - awesome, will do that

@rockhouse - thanks, I was actually suppose to try that coupler

@meirschwartz - thank you, things sound good to me this way. I was reffering to my previous 2001 which had star bolts, but... RMS was indeed replaced to 997 version which explains presence of the star bolts. Got me confused on this new one