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Nice gut job. Looks like a really big project. How did you decide what to eliminate and what not to? I still have the air bag/crash sensor box and the immobilizer box in the car. Can you ditch those?
My CEL is always ON because the air bags are pulled. Have you done anything to prevent this?
Don't know if I'm that brave yet on removing extra wire, my luck car wouldn't start.
That was a huge concern. When working with the relays, fuse panel and alarm I reconnected the battery and tried to start it every 5 wires. The rest of the time I would crank it over periodically just to make sure Thankfully it started every time but if it didn't I would at least have an idea of where I went wrong.
Originally Posted by 911TTCAB
Nice gut job. Looks like a really big project. How did you decide what to eliminate and what not to? I still have the air bag/crash sensor box and the immobilizer box in the car. Can you ditch those?
My CEL is always ON because the air bags are pulled. Have you done anything to prevent this?
Ya, this mod has your name written all over it. Lol. I got pictures of the fuse and relay panel from Charlie at Innovative along with the alarm list below. You only need to keep the yellow wires. I did ask his permission before sharing. I asked where he go it and he said we went through the wiring diagrams and just marked every wire that wasn't necessary. Apperently in the 13 month Audi school they devote 8 weeks to taking a car and tracing out every single wire and what it's purpose is. I thought that was kind of cool. I'm not sure what to do about the airbag light other than ignore it.
Meeting Charlie was really cool. I can see by everyone speaks so highly of him in this region. He's a younger guy, probably 30's, extremely knowledgable about SP996 and SPBs and known for building (and driving) the fastest cars around. He highly recommended accusumps and liked using the Motorsport AOS's. He even has the brackets for mounting on the 996.1.
Some other interesting things was he developed a special tow hook that weighs less than 2lbs but allows you to delete over 20lbs of bumper reinforcements used to support the traditional tow hooks.
Other items of interest are his approach to using lightweight bike brake handles for doors (see below) and he told me where to buy Aesco LWFWs for $636. I haven't bought one yet but it is part of the spec so when I do (for my track car only) I hope Jake will still talk to me.
Do you have a link for threads/documentation for converting to a mechanical door handle like that?
I would be interested in making some small billet mechanisms that utilize a nylon strap like the RS door pulls. It would be a lot more elegant than a brake handle.
Ya, this mod has your name written all over it. Lol. I got pictures of the fuse and relay panel from Charlie at Innovative along with the alarm list below. You only need to keep the yellow wires. I did ask his permission before sharing. I asked where he go it and he said we went through the wiring diagrams and just marked every wire that wasn't necessary. Apperently in the 13 month Audi school they devote 8 weeks to taking a car and tracing out every single wire and what it's purpose is. I thought that was kind of cool. I'm not sure what to do about the airbag light other than ignore it.
Slakker, thanks for the info! So only keep the yellow highlighted wires, it makes sense when you look at the descriptions. Thanks for the tip on turning over the car over while you are going through this process too. This project is at least a year out for me.
Immediate need for me is a windshield replacement before next weekend's track event. It is a PIA job but doing it myself again and going with the polycarbonate this time. Hopefully they will last longer.
If the wiring for the airbag still exists, you can install a resistor inline to mimic the resistance of the airbag - folks who want a racing wheel but want the passenger SRS to remain intact use this trick. I don't think this applies to Slakker's car at this point.
I made it by to visit last week. It looked pretty sad. It's supposed to be done a week from Wed which includes completing the roll cage, installing the GT3 roof, painting the interior and new roof, installation of Lexan front and rear window with bracing, and cutting the dash to fit. I've got two shelves full of parts just waiting for it to come home.
Are you going to run it in PCA club racing? If you are the only class that rear Lexan glass is legal is Spec 996. If running in H leave the stock glass in.
I'm going to be mostly running it in a local association where I'll be classed a loose SCCA GT2 and racing against 996 cup cars and some insane M3's. So I'm building in compliance with PCA GTB1 to get it as quick as I can within reason. For PCA events, that puts me in that same run group as the SP996s (which are more prevalent than H in this region) and let's me stick with the Moton clubsports that came with the car for now. GTB1 also lets me cut an additional 200lbs over SP996 and 400lbs over H.
If I decide to get heavily into PCA I'll probably back it off to SP996 if I can't hang with the Caymans.
I'm going to be mostly running it in a local association where I'll be classed a loose SCCA GT2 and racing against 996 cup cars and some insane M3's. So I'm building in compliance with PCA GTB1 to get it as quick as I can within reason. For PCA events, that puts me in that same run group as the SP996s (which are more prevalent than H in this region) and let's me stick with the Moton clubsports that came with the car for now. GTB1 also lets me cut an additional 200lbs over SP996 and 400lbs over H.
If I decide to get heavily into PCA I'll probably back it off to SP996 if I can't hang with the Caymans.
Thank god I'm not this far down the slippery slope!
07-19-2016, 02:30 PM
