My new '99 C2 Coupe Track Car
#136
Rennlist Member
996,s are not competitive in GTB1, I have not seen a 996 in gtb1 the last 2 years. You are also looking at serious weight reduction to get it to 2650. Carbon doors fenders and hood are a must.
As an example my 996 running in H is about as striped as you can get it and it weighs in at 2800 dry. That puts me at 3080 with fuel, driver and cool suit . To get it to Sp996 weight I would loose the passenger seat, install a lightweight battery, rear Lexan glass and remove the rear bumper support. This would put it at 2950 with fuel and driver so I would have to get creative to lose the extra 100 pounds weight.
To loose another 200 pounds to get it to gtb1 weight at 2650 with driver would be a monumental task and very expensive.
As far as being competitive in gtb1, the fastest Caymans are running 2:25 second laps at Road America. The fastest Sp996's are running 2:31
and the H cars are running 2:33's
Prepping a 996 to Gtb1 might get it below 2:30 but it would be as expensive as building a Cayman.
As an example my 996 running in H is about as striped as you can get it and it weighs in at 2800 dry. That puts me at 3080 with fuel, driver and cool suit . To get it to Sp996 weight I would loose the passenger seat, install a lightweight battery, rear Lexan glass and remove the rear bumper support. This would put it at 2950 with fuel and driver so I would have to get creative to lose the extra 100 pounds weight.
To loose another 200 pounds to get it to gtb1 weight at 2650 with driver would be a monumental task and very expensive.
As far as being competitive in gtb1, the fastest Caymans are running 2:25 second laps at Road America. The fastest Sp996's are running 2:31
and the H cars are running 2:33's
Prepping a 996 to Gtb1 might get it below 2:30 but it would be as expensive as building a Cayman.
#137
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Truthfully my main goal is to maximize this cars performance, within reason. I have to pay attention to PCA for resale value and because I eventually would like to run in a few events. But I have GT4's GT3s and Lamborghini's to take down in a private track group I'm in and will have plenty of fun running in the local association for now.
But I have to think a GTB1 prepped 996 will gain more than a second on an SP996. Compared to the H, the SP996 has better aero, underprice pulley, and 200lbs. H has better shocks, better tires, solid bushings, and more aggressive alignment. GTB1 has all of the above, plus racing slicks, 200 lbs lighter, electric steering pump, and bigger brakes.
As far as weight, I started at 3000lbs with a 130lbs of bolt in roll cage (including reinforcement) and only the carpet, back seats and door panels removed. I think I'll be able to get it under 2500lbs by the time it's all said and done. My SP996 compliant lightening includes muffler bypass, lighter roll cage, removing remaining interior, removing front and rear bumper supports, all heat and air components, completely gutting the doors to just shells, and the roof and Lexan mentioned above.
I'm spending an additional $1100 on an FRP hood (11lbs compared to 9.5lbs CF), headlight delete, 3.5lbs battery, and the front Lexan. All of which should be easily reversible for SP996 when the time comes.
I weigh 170lbs and don't use a cool suit (at this time) so I should be pretty close to the 2650 mark. Of course, the proof will be in the pudding.
But I have to think a GTB1 prepped 996 will gain more than a second on an SP996. Compared to the H, the SP996 has better aero, underprice pulley, and 200lbs. H has better shocks, better tires, solid bushings, and more aggressive alignment. GTB1 has all of the above, plus racing slicks, 200 lbs lighter, electric steering pump, and bigger brakes.
As far as weight, I started at 3000lbs with a 130lbs of bolt in roll cage (including reinforcement) and only the carpet, back seats and door panels removed. I think I'll be able to get it under 2500lbs by the time it's all said and done. My SP996 compliant lightening includes muffler bypass, lighter roll cage, removing remaining interior, removing front and rear bumper supports, all heat and air components, completely gutting the doors to just shells, and the roof and Lexan mentioned above.
I'm spending an additional $1100 on an FRP hood (11lbs compared to 9.5lbs CF), headlight delete, 3.5lbs battery, and the front Lexan. All of which should be easily reversible for SP996 when the time comes.
I weigh 170lbs and don't use a cool suit (at this time) so I should be pretty close to the 2650 mark. Of course, the proof will be in the pudding.
#139
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It was supposed to be done at the shop by 9/1 so we are only running about 5 weeks overdue. grrrr. But if all goes well I'll get it back next week. Truthfully, this is why I learned to work on my pcar because nobody else seems to have the same sense of urgency for it that I do. Lol.
But the guy that has it has spent hours talking to me through how to do different things, given me access to his templates for building an SP996, and gotten me some really good deals on parts. That has helped my patience and demeanor quite a bit. I would still highly recommend him at this point.
But the guy that has it has spent hours talking to me through how to do different things, given me access to his templates for building an SP996, and gotten me some really good deals on parts. That has helped my patience and demeanor quite a bit. I would still highly recommend him at this point.
#140
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Life is good!!!!! Lots of work to do and can't wait to get cracking on it.
#144
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Barn996
Nice job on the interior. Quite a lot of roll cage fabrication involved in that build. You must be excited.
So cage, roof replaced with GT3 skin, Lexan front and rear window completed by Innovative. Going to continue with putting it back together and diet today.
#145
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just put it up on jack stands for first time with welded cage. Front right, front left, same as usual. Lifted rear from the right side of cross bar (by sway connection) which usually means I have to lift an inch or two above right jack stand to fit left jack stand under. Even with bolt in cage.
Nope, not any more. There was less than a "1/4 difference between to two sides. Talking about rigidity, holy crud.
Nope, not any more. There was less than a "1/4 difference between to two sides. Talking about rigidity, holy crud.
#147
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by kcattorney
Not sure why, but everytime I read this thread, Slakker, this comes to mind:
#148
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Dropping the fuel tank just to remove the heater pipes is a crazy amount of work for such little gain. But it beats having them dangling there I guess.
#150
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Montychristo128
Great progress Slakker. Bet you can't wait to go for a test flight!!