zachsdad1

That's the best way to describe it. I flushed the brake fluid (well, my indy did) and the front pads/rotors were done (rears are good). My inclination is to replace the brake booster/master cylinder. But rather than throwing parts at the problem, is there anything else I should be looking at? Thanks all.

extanker

what did your mechanic say is the problem

Barn996

As long as your Indy bled the brake system and didn't leave any air in the lines.

joe-1972

I would bet money on AIR in the lines.
You need someone to show you how to bleed/Flush the brakes yourself and I would bet the problem would be solved...

I used the Motive bleeder that I bought from Pelican... I love it!
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...BLEEDR_pg7.htm

Bubrubb

Sure sounds like there is air in the system.

I have had the brake booster fail on me and it presented a completely different set of symptoms. The pedal wouldn't return to the 'up' position and would leave the brakes engaged.

+1 on the Motive Bleeder.

There are two bleed valves per caliper (inside and outside), which sometimes get missed by non-Porsche mechanics when bleeding the system.

porschedog

^+1 for air in the lines. Sucks, but can be fixed fairly easily.

zachsdad1

Thank you fellas. Will bleed the system and report back. Very much appreciated.

EDIT: I just saw that if the car has PSM (which mine does), you need to use a PST2 in order to activate the valves in the hydraulic unit during the bleeding process. Not only do I not have a bleeder, I don't have a PST2.

joe-1972

In extreme circumstances yes you would need to use the PST2 to open the valves in the ABS system so that you can purge it.

If you have not activated the ABS system you "should" be fine with a good flushing.

I recommend not to "bleed" your system. You do not know where the trapped bubbles might be. So you might not get it all out.
If you get the Motive system it becomes almost fail proof to "flush" everything out of the system in a smooth manner.

You really need to do this with a different color fluid and follow the correct procedure as listed. The reason to use a different color is that you will know by the color change that the fluid has traveled from the Master to the exact nipple your working on. And dont' forget to always go from the farthest nipple to the Master First and work back to the closest to the Master.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ing_Brakes.htm

zachsdad1

got it. I'm going to order the bleeder you suggested and give it a go. thank you!

joe-1972

I am not kidding about how easy it is to use... and if everything else is working correctly in the system your pedal will be rock hard!

Please make sure you raise your car correctly... and support it well!
Take all four wheels off at once and go to work.

It takes me longer to raise my car and secure it with four jack stands and take off the wheels then it does to flush/bleed the system.

Bubrubb

Good luck.

Let us know how it turns out.

Also, it seems that the indy that completed the work should also be on the hook to make it right. Often times when you replace the front rotors and pads, a little bit of air can get trapped in the caliper.

If your indy didn't follow the outside nipple, than inside nipple bleeding pattern, that could also be the issue.

zachsdad1

I thought of that, but it's a good opportunity to learn something new. Thanks again, everyone.

johneecatt

It it persists after your bleed, check rotors. They can get ever-so-slightly warped, so that you won't feel it, but it forces the pads back a little, and can cause mush.

I had that issue and was chasing brakes for some time - bled till I was blue, changed out master cylinder, vacuum assists, etc. But when I changed the rotors... it became all good, every push.