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Being the cheap AR engineer that I am, I went through the Beck Arnley Manual and figured out which wires to splice together.
So attached is the wiring diagram I followed. I got the first A2-A5 splice from someone here and verified it; I came up with the A6.
Here is how I did it, when I removed the pop up spoiler I cut the wiring harness part that awached to the two switches on the factory pop-up spoiler. I wish I would have given myself a little more room to work with the wires were I cut it. This made my 3rd brake light inop as well as receiving the spoiler not deployed warning and light. The spoiler I installed did not have a light.
So where I cut the wires on the spoiler wiring harness, I found the corresponding wires to the diagram and spliced them. I spliced the Grey/Brown (Spoiler warning) to the Brown to the Brown/Orange (Third Brake Light) right were I cut the wires to remove the factory spoiler. My third brake light works as well as disabling the spoiler warning and light.
If my spoiler had a light, I could have hooked up the original brake light wires to it, and then instead of splicing the Brown/Orange you would splice the Brown/Black.
or you could do what i did and simply buy the correct aero wiring harness pigtail from the dealer! That way you can sell the motorized portion or swap them back without issue.
Being the cheap AR engineer that I am, I went through the Beck Arnley Manual and figured out which wires to splice together.
So attached is the wiring diagram I followed. I got the first A2-A5 splice from someone here and verified it; I came up with the A6.
Here is how I did it, when I removed the pop up spoiler I cut the wiring harness part that awached to the two switches on the factory pop-up spoiler. I wish I would have given myself a little more room to work with the wires were I cut it. This made my 3rd brake light inop as well as receiving the spoiler not deployed warning and light. The spoiler I installed did not have a light.
So where I cut the wires on the spoiler wiring harness, I found the corresponding wires to the diagram and spliced them. I spliced the Grey/Brown (Spoiler warning) to the Brown to the Brown/Orange (Third Brake Light) right were I cut the wires to remove the factory spoiler. My third brake light works as well as disabling the spoiler warning and light.
If my spoiler had a light, I could have hooked up the original brake light wires to it, and then instead of splicing the Brown/Orange you would splice the Brown/Black.
I twisted together A2, A5, and A6. Crossing my fingers it works. Thanks for the diagram. This is the best explanation I could find. My Bentley manual shows a different diagram.
Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I followed the diagram and although the 3rd brake light works like a charm the "wing malfunction" warning appears on my cluster almost immediately on start up or a minute or two after driving, and then after i pull the "ok" handle the warning bulb remains illuminated for the wing. Though instead of cutting the entire harness up at the deck lid I cut the wires close to the plug pictured on post #19 and tucked the 3 cut spoiler side wires up in the harness and then tied the brown, brown orange and grey brown wires together close to the plug.
My question is as jrrhdmust mentioned he cut the entire harness "that attached to the two switches on the factory pop-up spoiler". So were the wires A1 A3 and A4 also cut then and must I cut those as well to eliminate the warnings for wing malfunction I am getting?
Thanks in advance.
btw, I have a 2002 c4s and put on a misha style gt2m wing without 3rd brake light in it.
Guy holding up wires in post #19 is holding up brown wire A12 not A5!! I didnt count pins when I was doing the job and would have caught the other thin brown wire hiding in the harness. Swapped the thick A12 for the thin A5 and bam all fixed.
Do not go off post #19 guys or you will encounter same problem as I did. At least we know he isn't color blind.
I tried the above solution on my 996.2 to no avail. After reading a couple other boards I tried simply depressing the micro switch and taping it down. That eliminated the light all together. Ran diagnostics and no codes present. Not sure if continuously depressing the micro switch will do any damage. For peace of mind I will have this coded out the next time its in the shop.
Regarding the splicing/ twisting together of 2, 5, and 6, forgive my ignorance, but will all 6 cut ends of the three wires be twisted together, or only 3 cut ends, and which cut ends if so? I’m doing a ducktail on my ‘99 C2 if that makes a difference.
thanks in advance!
I tried the above solution on my 996.2 to no avail. After reading a couple other boards I tried simply depressing the micro switch and taping it down. That eliminated the light all together. Ran diagnostics and no codes present. Not sure if continuously depressing the micro switch will do any damage. For peace of mind I will have this coded out the next time its in the shop.
Where is the micro switch that you taped down?
I don’t love the idea of tape to solve a problem, but it also sounds really simple and easily reversible. 🙂
I have a no-light, fixed duck tail that causes a beep and a warning light anytime I get over 72mph.
I’m hanging onto the original equipment and really don’t want to cut original wiring. I like my mods
to be non-permanent, if possible.
05-30-2014, 12:47 PM
