Simple 3-step complete coolant drain (updated w/ refill procedure + water pump tips)
04-01-2013, 07:01 PM
#31
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I don't have the answer but hope KK or others will chime in soon.
Porsche coolant can be had for $29 + shipping per gallon (Sunset Porsche). I don't think Pentofrost is much cheaper per gallon, right?
Porsche coolant can be had for $29 + shipping per gallon (Sunset Porsche). I don't think Pentofrost is much cheaper per gallon, right?
04-07-2013, 04:07 AM
#32
Ben,
The SF is silicate free and should be OK to mix with your old coolant. I used Pentofrost++ to convert to the newer Porsche spec coolant because I did a complete flush. They dont recommend you mix the two. They are both G12 and not A1. If your not doing a complete flush I would stick with the PF and not the ++. The newer type is expensive. Hope that makes sense.
The SF is silicate free and should be OK to mix with your old coolant. I used Pentofrost++ to convert to the newer Porsche spec coolant because I did a complete flush. They dont recommend you mix the two. They are both G12 and not A1. If your not doing a complete flush I would stick with the PF and not the ++. The newer type is expensive. Hope that makes sense.
08-03-2013, 12:49 AM
#33
Drifting
I just followed the coolant purging procedure, and wanted to add that the 5 gallon pail is absolutely necessary especially when blowing out the radiators, I thought I could get away without using it but it made a mess of my garage floor, I did buy the pail but was going to use it for the new coolant.....
I did not see a crush washer on the engine coolant drain plug, will hunt around tomorrow to get one.
Also, make sure you have a 24mm socket to loosen the tensioner to remove the belt, my regular tool set did not have one, fortunately I found a 24mm 1/2" drive socket I bought almost 20 years ago to fix a faucet in my parents' house, came in handy today.
The pick is a great tool and very useful, the cable operated hose clamp tool was not necessary, I bought it, but never used it, a large needle-nose Vise-Grip worked just fine to loosen the spring clamp.
1/4" swivel and/or 10mm 1/4" deep socket are absolutely necessary also, else you won't be able to loosen the couple of bolts on the water pump and thermostat housing.
Finally, I ordered the G-13 coolant from an on-line store in the US and picked up in the US, I then found out at the end I could have bought them slightly less expensive locally here in Canada tax-in, serves me right to not do my homework......
I did not see a crush washer on the engine coolant drain plug, will hunt around tomorrow to get one.
Also, make sure you have a 24mm socket to loosen the tensioner to remove the belt, my regular tool set did not have one, fortunately I found a 24mm 1/2" drive socket I bought almost 20 years ago to fix a faucet in my parents' house, came in handy today.
The pick is a great tool and very useful, the cable operated hose clamp tool was not necessary, I bought it, but never used it, a large needle-nose Vise-Grip worked just fine to loosen the spring clamp.
1/4" swivel and/or 10mm 1/4" deep socket are absolutely necessary also, else you won't be able to loosen the couple of bolts on the water pump and thermostat housing.
Finally, I ordered the G-13 coolant from an on-line store in the US and picked up in the US, I then found out at the end I could have bought them slightly less expensive locally here in Canada tax-in, serves me right to not do my homework......
08-03-2013, 01:41 PM
#35
Drifting
Hard to say, since so much of the coolant from the rad ended up on the garage floor.....
I think it's safe to say I've recovered 4.5 gallons in the various containers, and it's not too far a stretch to estimate about 1.5 gallons gushed out on to the garage floor.
Just got the water pump and thermostat off after getting the 10mm 1/4" drive deep socket and the 1/4" universal, both are a must, and a few bolts were still not easy to remove, should be a load of fun to install these bolts back in with the new water pump and low-temp thermostat now!!
I think it's safe to say I've recovered 4.5 gallons in the various containers, and it's not too far a stretch to estimate about 1.5 gallons gushed out on to the garage floor.
Just got the water pump and thermostat off after getting the 10mm 1/4" drive deep socket and the 1/4" universal, both are a must, and a few bolts were still not easy to remove, should be a load of fun to install these bolts back in with the new water pump and low-temp thermostat now!!
08-03-2013, 05:53 PM
#37
Drifting
All done. Got at least 5 gallons of the coolant mix into the system even after 3 vacuum pulls in between filling, will keep the burp valve open for a bit to see if the level comes down.
Uview worked great!
Another tip, make sure the old t-stat gasket comes off if your are replacing with a new t-stat, for some reason I didn't notice the old gasket stayed on the block, so had to R&R it the second time when I asked myself: "Hmmm, where is that old t-stat gasket????" AFTER I had already fought through and installed the two hard to reach upper bolts for the new t-stat......
Also make sure to clean the mounting surface well on the engine block side, I carefully used a fine-cut flat file, else you may not get a positive seal from the gasket, (don't) ask me how I found out. If you do use the Uview 550000, make sure the vacuum you pulled will maintain exactly unchanged over at least 20 minutes, the user manual suggests the system is air tight if there is no change in 20 seconds, that's not enough, I found after filling the system the first time I had a tiny leak from the thermostat gasket not full sealing, 1 drop of coolant every 30 seconds, but the vacuum had maintained over 20 seconds so I thought I was good to put in the coolant.....
The vacuum was solid and held unchanged for 20 minutes after I cleaned the crud off the engine side of the thermostat mounting face, this finally confirmed an air tight system.
The water pump gasket WILL stay on the block if it had never been replaced, as it is part of bigger set of gaskets for other things Porsche installed in the factory, so you will actually need to nip it off.
Two of the water pump bolts are longer than the other five, they are for the two mounting holes on the water pump where there are two protruding sleeves on the back to align to the mounting holes on the engine side, so it's very easy to figure out.
As others have done, I also jacked up the engine a bit to move the mounting bracket enough to get the water pump out, in fact I had to do this just to get the 10mm 1/4" drive deep socket in there. However, rather than just jack the engine up by the middle of the oil pan which I thought was not the smartest idea since that part/point was never intended as a load bearing point, I decided to spread the load across a 2x6 lumber, but then I noticed the bottom of the oil pan protrudes lower than the edge, so the 2x6 will still exerts pressure only on the center of the oil pan.
What I did was get two smaller scrap 2x6 and put them on the edge of the engine block and on the long 2x6, I then jacked up the 2x6 so the two scrap 2x6 are lifting the edge of the engine block where it's the strongest, rather than the center of the oil pan........
No missing impeller blades on the old water pump so I'm happy, the bearing has a tiny amount of unusual noise when I hand spun it, so I'm happy too to get this item off the to-do list and added the low-temp t-stat at the same time.
FWIW I ordered the parts from 928rsRus, great service, fast delivery, and best price in the shops who will accept a Canadian credit card, thanks Roger and Laurie, you guys are awesome!!
Uview worked great!
Another tip, make sure the old t-stat gasket comes off if your are replacing with a new t-stat, for some reason I didn't notice the old gasket stayed on the block, so had to R&R it the second time when I asked myself: "Hmmm, where is that old t-stat gasket????" AFTER I had already fought through and installed the two hard to reach upper bolts for the new t-stat......
Also make sure to clean the mounting surface well on the engine block side, I carefully used a fine-cut flat file, else you may not get a positive seal from the gasket, (don't) ask me how I found out. If you do use the Uview 550000, make sure the vacuum you pulled will maintain exactly unchanged over at least 20 minutes, the user manual suggests the system is air tight if there is no change in 20 seconds, that's not enough, I found after filling the system the first time I had a tiny leak from the thermostat gasket not full sealing, 1 drop of coolant every 30 seconds, but the vacuum had maintained over 20 seconds so I thought I was good to put in the coolant.....
The vacuum was solid and held unchanged for 20 minutes after I cleaned the crud off the engine side of the thermostat mounting face, this finally confirmed an air tight system.
The water pump gasket WILL stay on the block if it had never been replaced, as it is part of bigger set of gaskets for other things Porsche installed in the factory, so you will actually need to nip it off.
Two of the water pump bolts are longer than the other five, they are for the two mounting holes on the water pump where there are two protruding sleeves on the back to align to the mounting holes on the engine side, so it's very easy to figure out.
As others have done, I also jacked up the engine a bit to move the mounting bracket enough to get the water pump out, in fact I had to do this just to get the 10mm 1/4" drive deep socket in there. However, rather than just jack the engine up by the middle of the oil pan which I thought was not the smartest idea since that part/point was never intended as a load bearing point, I decided to spread the load across a 2x6 lumber, but then I noticed the bottom of the oil pan protrudes lower than the edge, so the 2x6 will still exerts pressure only on the center of the oil pan.
What I did was get two smaller scrap 2x6 and put them on the edge of the engine block and on the long 2x6, I then jacked up the 2x6 so the two scrap 2x6 are lifting the edge of the engine block where it's the strongest, rather than the center of the oil pan........
No missing impeller blades on the old water pump so I'm happy, the bearing has a tiny amount of unusual noise when I hand spun it, so I'm happy too to get this item off the to-do list and added the low-temp t-stat at the same time.
FWIW I ordered the parts from 928rsRus, great service, fast delivery, and best price in the shops who will accept a Canadian credit card, thanks Roger and Laurie, you guys are awesome!!
Last edited by aviography; 08-05-2013 at 12:04 AM.
08-04-2013, 10:17 AM
#38
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Nice work Ken. +1 on 928rus.
All done. Got at least 5 gallons of the coolant mix into the system even after 3 vacuum pulls in between filling, will keep the burp valve open for a bit to see if the level comes down.
Uview worked great!
Another tip, make sure the old t-stat gasket comes off if your are replacing with a new t-stat, for some reason I didn't notice the old gasket stayed on the block, so had to R&R it the second time when I asked myself: "Hmmm, where is that old t-stat gasket????" AFTER I had already fought through and installed the two hard to reach upper bolts for the new t-stat......
The water pump gasket WILL stay on the block if it had never been replaced, as it is part of bigger set of gaskets for other things Porsche installed in the factory, so you will actually need to nip it off.
Two of the water pump bolts are longer than the other five, they are for the two mounting holes on the water pump where there are two protruding sleeves on the back to align to the mounting holes on the engine side, so it's very easy to figure out.
As others have done, I also jacked up the engine a bit to move the mounting bracket enough to get the water pump out, in fact I had to do this just to get the 10mm 1/4" drive deep socket in there. However, rather than just jack the engine up by the middle of the oil pan which I thought was not the smartest idea since that part/point was never intended as a load bearing point, I decided to spread the load across a 2x6 lumber, but then I noticed the bottom of the oil pan protrudes lower than the edge, so the 2x6 will still exerts pressure only on the center of the oil pan.
What I did was get two smaller scrap 2x6 and put them on the edge of the engine block and on the long 2x6, I then jacked up the 2x6 so the two scrap 2x6 are lifting the edge of the engine block where it's the strongest, rather than the center of the oil pan........
No missing impeller blades on the old water pump so I'm happy, the bearing has a tiny amount of unusual noise when I hand spun it, so I'm happy too to get this item off the to-do list and added the low-temp t-stat at the same time.
FWIW I ordered the parts from 928rsRus, great service, fast delivery, and best price in the shops who will accept a Canadian credit card, thanks Roger and Laurie, you guys are awesome!!
Uview worked great!
Another tip, make sure the old t-stat gasket comes off if your are replacing with a new t-stat, for some reason I didn't notice the old gasket stayed on the block, so had to R&R it the second time when I asked myself: "Hmmm, where is that old t-stat gasket????" AFTER I had already fought through and installed the two hard to reach upper bolts for the new t-stat......
The water pump gasket WILL stay on the block if it had never been replaced, as it is part of bigger set of gaskets for other things Porsche installed in the factory, so you will actually need to nip it off.
Two of the water pump bolts are longer than the other five, they are for the two mounting holes on the water pump where there are two protruding sleeves on the back to align to the mounting holes on the engine side, so it's very easy to figure out.
As others have done, I also jacked up the engine a bit to move the mounting bracket enough to get the water pump out, in fact I had to do this just to get the 10mm 1/4" drive deep socket in there. However, rather than just jack the engine up by the middle of the oil pan which I thought was not the smartest idea since that part/point was never intended as a load bearing point, I decided to spread the load across a 2x6 lumber, but then I noticed the bottom of the oil pan protrudes lower than the edge, so the 2x6 will still exerts pressure only on the center of the oil pan.
What I did was get two smaller scrap 2x6 and put them on the edge of the engine block and on the long 2x6, I then jacked up the 2x6 so the two scrap 2x6 are lifting the edge of the engine block where it's the strongest, rather than the center of the oil pan........
No missing impeller blades on the old water pump so I'm happy, the bearing has a tiny amount of unusual noise when I hand spun it, so I'm happy too to get this item off the to-do list and added the low-temp t-stat at the same time.
FWIW I ordered the parts from 928rsRus, great service, fast delivery, and best price in the shops who will accept a Canadian credit card, thanks Roger and Laurie, you guys are awesome!!
08-11-2013, 10:26 PM
#39
Drifting
Just a few pics of how I support the engine block when I jack it up to relief the pressure on the exhaust mounting bracket.
And a pic of the slow one-every-30seconds drip when I didn't clean the t-stat mounting surface properly.
And a pic of the slow one-every-30seconds drip when I didn't clean the t-stat mounting surface properly.
08-12-2013, 02:54 AM
#41
Race Director
Beautiful job!!!
As a side note, because of all those places where the coolant hides, there are usually some air bubbles in the system after the refill. Be sure and check coolant level after driving a bit and top off!!
As a side note, because of all those places where the coolant hides, there are usually some air bubbles in the system after the refill. Be sure and check coolant level after driving a bit and top off!!
08-12-2013, 03:04 AM
#42
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Btw, I used the uview tool on my MDX and it was as effective. The factory manual asked for 4 to 5 cycles of engine warm up, turn on front heater, then rear heater, then refill, then repeat. I just say screw that and whip out my uview and it's done in 10 minutes.
08-12-2013, 09:08 PM
#43
Drifting
I only had to add a very small amount after a couple of good drives.
I mentioned the Uview tool to a good mechanic friend who runs his own import car garage, and he said he's been using one for almost 10 years! It is a great concept that also works very well, it made my second round of filling the system a snap, it was a difference of an hour or two vs. 5 minutes!
I mentioned the Uview tool to a good mechanic friend who runs his own import car garage, and he said he's been using one for almost 10 years! It is a great concept that also works very well, it made my second round of filling the system a snap, it was a difference of an hour or two vs. 5 minutes!
05-03-2014, 10:47 PM
#44
Rennlist Member
Don't know how I missed this before, but great write-up!
