apterr

Thank you

apterr

Thanks

Hurdigurdiman

Read very carefully before manually putting the top up as I seem to recall reading somewhere that if you do, it will not work via the door and dash button until something is reset... Can't remember just what but something. Once again I must stress that you have to have a full battery for the top to work correctly.

fpb111

Most likely have to go to dealer to get the multiple micro switch "timing" reset after using the procedure in the owners manual. If he just helps it by hand after the flaps and cover have moved he probably won't have to have anything reset.

timmhaines

Hi, need some help, top won't close 2004 996 turbo cab, have a smart top controller, has been in car for years like 4, pressed switch to close, windows drop, lid unlocks and slightly lifts then stops two blinks constant on dash top light, removed back cover to find hex cap gone, used a 5/16 8 point socket and can lock an unlock top lid, light will go off when locked back with socket.
lid cannot be lifted when unlocked, do I need to bring down the flaps manually to release it?
Best course of action suggestions at this point?. can hear motor running in back, seems like the lid has a larger than normal gap between popups cover and the front of the convertible roof, something stuck?
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Tim

apterr

Hello again,

Well after a few years of intermittent problems with the cab top it finally quit full time. I brought it to my non-dealer mechanic who told me it was definitely an electronic problem and that the dealer would have a diagnostic tool to tell which switch needed to be replaced. The dealer said they did not have such a device (can't believe this). They replaced the e-brake, not a solution. They then attempted to replace the hook latch (above the mirror), after telling me that it would be north of $1500 I asked them to put the top in the down position manually and call it a day. Do you have any suggestions on trouble shooting this issue other than replacing every switch (ignition switch was going to be next in line)? Thanks in advance. Andy

frisbee91

It seems to me that a competent mechanic should be able to troubleshoot the problem systematically, with an understanding of how the limit switches work, and in what order. Go through the system sequence I/O one-by-one with a meter until the problem is found.

If this isn't something you are willing to tackle yourself, find a better mechanic?

bosalls5

I have a 99 Cab and I'm experiencing the same situation. In my case I've replaced the micro switch in the parking brake a few months back. Just recently I added fluid (top was slow to close) to the pump. The last thing was being stuck with the top down. The clamp shell would open but the right flap was stuck so I replaced the flap (had to manually raise the top, see owners manual). By going manual I need to see the dealer to re-program and calibrate. When I spoke with the service manager he said if any of the micro switches (2 on each flap, 1 for the clam shell, 1 for the parking brake, 1 in the top of the windsheild, and 1 as a part of the program - speed sensor) fail the top dosen't move. In my case I hope it's just a recalibration...............let you know the out come soon.

jsoderbe

The top latch is easy, I just glued a small piece of plastic on the switch there and it started working again. Of course the switch can break, but I think most problems is caused by light wear which the piece of plastic will take care of.

To me the top can break in many different ways, but most of them are pretty easy to fix.

Rhards,

Johan

bosalls5

All good now, dealer had to clear all of the fault codes (had quite a few fault codes due to my persistance to reset). They unplugged the control module and reloaded the data..............fully operational now. Cost was $250 (sounds excessive for a download!). I'm curious if anybody would knows if the Durametric program would have helped with this?

Hurdigurdiman

Well my top is acting up again. It has been running flawlessly for the past 4 months. I hear 2 clicks on the drivers side in the back the red light on the dash is flashing when I try to raise the top either on the dash button or the key in the drivers door. I see that the silver clam looks to be fully down and the engine lid is closed but I see a half inch gap behind the rear seat ejectors. Where the front of the top should butt up too. I shine a light down the gap and see the hook of the top where it latches into the front. I suspect that I should not be seeing this hook and that the top did not finish its cycle correctly and that's why its not raising now. I am pissed with the top on this car. It is the most temperamental part of a cab. It works when it wants to work. If I don't solve it tomorrow then its into PORSCHE in Lancaster for them to sort it out finally. I am pissed because this will be only the second time I have had Porsche look at the car in 2 and a half years. I do all my own DIY on the car. This I cannot solve and I cannot find any DIY person on these boards to solve the CAB PROBLEM for sure. It would be easier for me to whistle up my own **** than it is to solve this bastard.

AckyE

My latest top experience turned out to be an issue with one if the cables that had snapped. I had it into the dealer for other work and they had to replace one of the cables. This was after many intermittent issues so maybe something to investigate . Good luck.

Down South

Outside of having to add some fluid a couple of years ago, my top (knock on wood) has worked perfectly. About a month ago, I noticed a small puddle of amber fluid underneath the car when I was backing out of my garage. Great! an oil leak. But the puddle wasn't under the engine; it was in front of the rear wheelwell. Then it dawned on me what was leaking. You guessed it, the driver's side hydraulic cylinder for the top. I had just put the top up before leaving. A couple of companies specialize in the rebuilding of these cylinders. I'm going to use the one in Braenton, FL. $450 exchange for both.

Still haven't decided if I'm doing them myself or not. Has anyone tackled this before?

Hurdigurdiman

Further to my latest Cab roof problem. I have my fingers crossed and may have solved my problem. Last time it closed up, via the dash switch, the door windows did not come up to indicate that the cycle was NOT complete. Then the top would not release the hook so it could come back down so I removed two plastic pieces either side of the hook to reveal a moveable cranker to release the hook manually which I did. IT says (open and close) on the inside of the right one. When it worked again from the dash, I stopped the roof half way and sprayed WD 40 all over the working parts either side and behind the hook. Then I removed the alian looking plastic eye parts either side of the inside light cluster. Call that part the hook resepticle. I found two Philip LOOKING screws in there. One was loose which I promptly tightened up with a special screw driver just for those screws. I bought that screw driver last year when I was working on other parts of the car. I opened the top up/down and THIS TIME since oiling, I heard a loud click each time the hood was coming up ... THat I discovered was the hook flying quickly out making itself ready for the receptacle at the front windscreen. I did not need Porsche to re calibrate the top as I had not interfered with the parts behind the rear seat backs as described in the Cabriolet Manual.

As I say, fingers crossed because I have had nothing but problems with the top since I bought the car 2 and a half years ago. I took the car out and stopped every 100 yards, and working from the dash, I had the top up and down at least 20 times no problem. Mine is the 99 job. Some of you might want to check out the hook part. I think you should hear a loud click as it flys out in the process of coming up. My hook has the full plastic on it now from my last repairing session. Also check the two screws inside the alian eyes before ordering new motors and hydraulics and micro switches for the roof operation. It worked for me and I will let you all know if it stops again.

Aesir

I started having a similar problem with my convertible top (2002 996). It would start to get stuck in the completely closed or completely open positions, and the red light would just blink when trying to open or close it. For a long time, it would only happen once every ten times or so, but it began to become more frequent.

The first time I took it into the shop, they said there were some faults in the sensor, and they cleared them out, hoping that would cure the problem. They said sometimes when you disconnect the battery, it can create a fault, but since the mechanism worked fine, that would be a good thing to try. It worked for a little while, but I soon ran into the same problem as before.

The second time I took it in, saying that the problem had not been fixed. They plugged the computer in and played with the top until they could generated the faults. Now they are saying that I need to get a new convertible top motor and related parts to replace it--essentially a $1100 job. $650 for the motor, $300 labor and additional related parts of about $100. The diagnosis is that there are potentiometers in the motor that tell it what position the top is in. They believe these potentiometers are bad and generating the faults. Unfortunately, they are internal to the motor, and unable to be fixed, so I need to replace the whole motor.

Does this sound like reasonable logic? I want to get this thing fixed, but I don't want to spend $1100 unnecessarily.