The New Official "Things you didnt know about your 996" thread
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10-08-2009, 06:39 PM
#32
Drifting
Wheel installation guide pin in the tool set. Helps prevent hitting the calipers and just make it easier to put on the wheel.
Ignition Switch on the left side, came from when drivers had to run to the car and start up the car. This allowed them to use 1 hand to for the ignition and the other to put the car in gear. Actually it was so the driver, RACE driver, could start, pre-start, the engine while climbing, "clambering" into the driver's seat.
Jump start the car from the rear or front compartment. Connectors are in the engine compartment battery posts in the front.
There are power connectors in drivers side fuse box. Connect power to this and then you can pop the trunk lid to get at the dead battery. Only if you also turn the ignition on, on mine anyway
If you have power seat with memory, you can set the passenger side mirror to tilt down when your put it in reverse by saving your seat memory while gear is in reverse. I use/reserve the highest memory PB for this function.
Oops, my bad..!!(***)
Disconnecting the battery clears any codes and forces engine to recalibrate air/gas mixture.No need/purpose for this unless you have changed the MAF/IAT module or one of the 2 A/F mixture controlling oxygen sensors.
Steering wheel lock. With ignition key in gently tug the wheel left or right to lock the steering wheel in position. What..!! I don't think so, did you mean to say "with ignition key OUT..??".
To turn off AC completely, keep lowering the fan level until it turns off. Or use the provided PB to simply switch off the snowflake icon.
To lock seat belt into position, move seat back all the way, then tighten up the seat belt, give it a quick snap once and it should lock. Move seat back into driving position. This keeps you nice and snug for driving and the track.
Ignition Switch on the left side, came from when drivers had to run to the car and start up the car. This allowed them to use 1 hand to for the ignition and the other to put the car in gear. Actually it was so the driver, RACE driver, could start, pre-start, the engine while climbing, "clambering" into the driver's seat.
Jump start the car from the rear or front compartment. Connectors are in the engine compartment battery posts in the front.
There are power connectors in drivers side fuse box. Connect power to this and then you can pop the trunk lid to get at the dead battery. Only if you also turn the ignition on, on mine anyway
If you have power seat with memory, you can set the passenger side mirror to tilt down when your put it in reverse by saving your seat memory while gear is in reverse. I use/reserve the highest memory PB for this function.
Oops, my bad..!!(***)
Disconnecting the battery clears any codes and forces engine to recalibrate air/gas mixture.No need/purpose for this unless you have changed the MAF/IAT module or one of the 2 A/F mixture controlling oxygen sensors.
Steering wheel lock. With ignition key in gently tug the wheel left or right to lock the steering wheel in position. What..!! I don't think so, did you mean to say "with ignition key OUT..??".
To turn off AC completely, keep lowering the fan level until it turns off. Or use the provided PB to simply switch off the snowflake icon.
To lock seat belt into position, move seat back all the way, then tighten up the seat belt, give it a quick snap once and it should lock. Move seat back into driving position. This keeps you nice and snug for driving and the track.
...
10-08-2009, 07:05 PM
#33
Rocky Mountain High
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Put your ignition key into the door lock, turn it and hold it, and the windows will open. If you turn it the other way, it will close the windows and sunroof.
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10-08-2009, 07:38 PM
#34
Drifting
Here's a fun fact: If you get the condensation on the window with AC on, press the second button from the top on the right side of the climate control unit. It's the one with the oval icon that represents the center vent. It will stop the condensation and you won't have to use your wipers. Works for me anyway.
On the other hand if a serious level of cabin heating is required then footwell AND defrost/defog/demist airflow would be desireable. In COLD weather the windshield interior surface should ALWAYS be continuously warmed.
Maybe I should revise my modification so that when the compressor is enabled the defrost/defog/demist airflow outlets are ALWAYS forced closed.
10-08-2009, 07:56 PM
#35
Drifting
The early Litronics, HID headlights, were not truly bi-xenon in the modern sense. Up until at least '02 the 996's projector HID assembly would automatically tilt upward in high beam mode but the shading apperture within the projector assembly used to provide the sharp upper pattern beam cutoff remained in place.
Newer bi-xenon HID projector low beam assemblies not only shift the beam pattern upwards in high beam mode but also use a small 12 volt solenoid to move/flip the shading apperture totally out of the HID beam path at the same time. Negating, possibly, the need for a halogen high beam "fill-in" bulb entirely.
Newer bi-xenon HID projector low beam assemblies not only shift the beam pattern upwards in high beam mode but also use a small 12 volt solenoid to move/flip the shading apperture totally out of the HID beam path at the same time. Negating, possibly, the need for a halogen high beam "fill-in" bulb entirely.
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10-08-2009, 08:09 PM
#36
- Leave the car sitting for more than 10 days ...be prepared for the battery to be dead.
- If you zip tie the yellow button on the orange rectangular box above the clutch pedal on manual cars, it will improve the shifting.
- If you zip tie the yellow button on the orange rectangular box above the clutch pedal on manual cars, it will improve the shifting.
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10-08-2009, 08:28 PM
#38
Team Owner
10-08-2009, 09:23 PM
#40
Rocky Mountain High
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10-08-2009, 09:40 PM
#41
Race Car
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The throttle map is different depending on if the clutch is in or out. Zip-tying the switch makes the throttle map the same all the time.
It seems like a lot of trouble to mess with when a little practice would do better...that being said I haven't tried it. But I don't plan to.
Okay here's one...the lug bolts have a special collar so that as you tighten or loosen them, they do not rub against the wheels and mar them up.
Also, the tip of the Porsche crest on the center cap is supposed to point towards the valve stem!
It seems like a lot of trouble to mess with when a little practice would do better...that being said I haven't tried it. But I don't plan to.
Okay here's one...the lug bolts have a special collar so that as you tighten or loosen them, they do not rub against the wheels and mar them up.
Also, the tip of the Porsche crest on the center cap is supposed to point towards the valve stem!
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10-08-2009, 10:23 PM
#42
Parts Specialist
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After falling in love with a Porsche, it is likely you will think all other cars look like crap 
- good info here - I have some new things to do on the car, tried the temp control unit thing and got in some wierd "mode" I will try again later... mine said "0" and something, then I mover the up and down arrows andit went to 1-2.... I stopped... what was that ? (pressed recirc and top ^ on right for 3 seconds)
- good info here - I have some new things to do on the car, tried the temp control unit thing and got in some wierd "mode" I will try again later... mine said "0" and something, then I mover the up and down arrows andit went to 1-2.... I stopped... what was that ? (pressed recirc and top ^ on right for 3 seconds)
10-08-2009, 10:51 PM
#43
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Ed, do you have this?
Porsche AC Diagnostics
(undocumented, unsupported feature)
The AC Climatronic unit is actually manufactured by Audi. There is some sort of serial data stream (not CAN) that allows the AC unit to display engine parameters. This works on 1997-2000 boxsters. Same as 996....
To switch from F to C:
Hold down the recirculating button then push both the temperature + - buttons.
To access diagnostics:
Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit.
I have yet to verify all these, this info was copied from wonderful people on PPBB!
Here is a list of what can be seen:
0c - ERL
1c - Oil Temp?
2c - Inside temp. Sensor mounted in the aspirator assembly at the side of the dash.
3c - Outside temp. Sensor located inside the air inlet of the A/C unit.
4c - Outside temp. Sensor located in front grill of the radiator. The data is fed to the Climatronic from the instrument cluster. When not moving, the instrument cluster OBC temp display retains it's last setting until moving. This is to prevent heat emanating from the radiator affecting the temperature sensor. The A/C unit uses the lower of the two outside air temp values in determining fresh-air temp.
5c - Outside temp. (matches OBC outside temp display)
6c - Coolant temp.
7c - Footwell discharge temp.
8c - Sun sensor (dash top)
9c - Sun sensor.
10c - Passenger compartment fan speed.
11c - Passenger compartment fan voltage.
12c - Temperature mix Flap command 1=COLD, 100=HOT
13c - Temperature mix Flap position
14c - Central Flap command
15c - Central Flap position
16c - Footwell/Defrost Flap command
17c - Footwell/Defrost Flap position
18c - Recirculation Valve command 1=OFF, 100=RECIRC
19c - Recirculation Valve position (feedback)
20c - Vehicle speed in kph, updating only once per second. (real speed, not speed+safety margin as in the speedometer)
21c - Engine RPM in hundreds. This too only updates once per second.
22c - ?
23c - ?
24c - Sun sensor, exterior lights switch & panel lights control (term. 58 & 58d voltage) - used for A/C panel display illum.
25c - ?
26c - ?
27c - ?
28c - Fan speed?
29c - ?
30c - Engine run time in seconds (255 max.)(=0xff)
31c - Timing counter
32c - Displays test
33c - Software version? Mine states 3.4
34c - ?
35c - Outside temp. from inlet sensor (filtered?)
36c - temp?
This is the anti stall (when on a hill) switch... the map is slightly more aggressive so it is easier to drive forward when you are on a steep hill.
It does give it a better throttle response...
This is called a floating collar... it helps maximizing contact surface area of the lugs/wheel, centering the lugs.
This is a concourse detail thing.... this is a must!
Porsche AC Diagnostics
(undocumented, unsupported feature)
The AC Climatronic unit is actually manufactured by Audi. There is some sort of serial data stream (not CAN) that allows the AC unit to display engine parameters. This works on 1997-2000 boxsters. Same as 996....
To switch from F to C:
Hold down the recirculating button then push both the temperature + - buttons.
To access diagnostics:
Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit.
I have yet to verify all these, this info was copied from wonderful people on PPBB!
Here is a list of what can be seen:
0c - ERL
1c - Oil Temp?
2c - Inside temp. Sensor mounted in the aspirator assembly at the side of the dash.
3c - Outside temp. Sensor located inside the air inlet of the A/C unit.
4c - Outside temp. Sensor located in front grill of the radiator. The data is fed to the Climatronic from the instrument cluster. When not moving, the instrument cluster OBC temp display retains it's last setting until moving. This is to prevent heat emanating from the radiator affecting the temperature sensor. The A/C unit uses the lower of the two outside air temp values in determining fresh-air temp.
5c - Outside temp. (matches OBC outside temp display)
6c - Coolant temp.
7c - Footwell discharge temp.
8c - Sun sensor (dash top)
9c - Sun sensor.
10c - Passenger compartment fan speed.
11c - Passenger compartment fan voltage.
12c - Temperature mix Flap command 1=COLD, 100=HOT
13c - Temperature mix Flap position
14c - Central Flap command
15c - Central Flap position
16c - Footwell/Defrost Flap command
17c - Footwell/Defrost Flap position
18c - Recirculation Valve command 1=OFF, 100=RECIRC
19c - Recirculation Valve position (feedback)
20c - Vehicle speed in kph, updating only once per second. (real speed, not speed+safety margin as in the speedometer)
21c - Engine RPM in hundreds. This too only updates once per second.
22c - ?
23c - ?
24c - Sun sensor, exterior lights switch & panel lights control (term. 58 & 58d voltage) - used for A/C panel display illum.
25c - ?
26c - ?
27c - ?
28c - Fan speed?
29c - ?
30c - Engine run time in seconds (255 max.)(=0xff)
31c - Timing counter
32c - Displays test
33c - Software version? Mine states 3.4
34c - ?
35c - Outside temp. from inlet sensor (filtered?)
36c - temp?
It does give it a better throttle response...
This is a concourse detail thing.... this is a must!
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10-09-2009, 09:19 AM
#45
Rennlist Member
That clutch switch is the clutch delay thinger, which actually cuts back on throttle response. I think Porsche wanted it in there so people wouldn't rip up their clutches so fast. A lot of companies do this, actually.