Back to the Texas Mile
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Back to the Texas Mile
After being rained out once and not ready another time, I signed up for the October event.
The last go around I was running a protmotive tune with K24 18g. That setup was good for 203.9 and 169 half mile. IIRC.
This go around I'm running a Syvec EMS with Alpha 3076HTA,E85 and a custom gear box. The car is making a couple hundred more horsepower. My primary goal is to keep it safe and think of the event as a test and tune. I will be focusing on launching and 1/2 mile speed. My roll bar is tech ed in at 215 top speed. If conditions allow I will be shooting for 180 1/2 and 215
The car is pretty much ready to go. I've been obsessing over minor drive ability stuff. I might do another Dyno session before the event. I also plan on going to the dragstrip before.
We'll see how it goes
The last go around I was running a protmotive tune with K24 18g. That setup was good for 203.9 and 169 half mile. IIRC.
This go around I'm running a Syvec EMS with Alpha 3076HTA,E85 and a custom gear box. The car is making a couple hundred more horsepower. My primary goal is to keep it safe and think of the event as a test and tune. I will be focusing on launching and 1/2 mile speed. My roll bar is tech ed in at 215 top speed. If conditions allow I will be shooting for 180 1/2 and 215
The car is pretty much ready to go. I've been obsessing over minor drive ability stuff. I might do another Dyno session before the event. I also plan on going to the dragstrip before.
We'll see how it goes
#2
Rennlist Member
Wow! Good luck, rooting for you! Great Pic - I like the rubber marks that line up with the car that extend out into the distance. Are you at stock weight and 4wd (can't recall), what dyno numbers have you achieved? How have you changed the gearing?
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
basal,
pretty much stock weight. Actually a little heavier 3300-3400 with gt3 seat and roll bar .Dyno number, old setup was 680hp with dyno pak. The new setup is 880 on a dyno pak as well. We found the limitations of the plastic manifold and have started a redesign of the intake. next years project. gearing wise
i went with Guard gears. 1st=2.883 2nd=1.842 3rd=1.286 4th=.96 5th=.778 6th=.679
should be interesting.
pretty much stock weight. Actually a little heavier 3300-3400 with gt3 seat and roll bar .Dyno number, old setup was 680hp with dyno pak. The new setup is 880 on a dyno pak as well. We found the limitations of the plastic manifold and have started a redesign of the intake. next years project. gearing wise
i went with Guard gears. 1st=2.883 2nd=1.842 3rd=1.286 4th=.96 5th=.778 6th=.679
should be interesting.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Nice work Mike, I look forward to your results on the Texas Mile. Sure would love to see some photos/videos of your recent mods.
BTW, thanks for the tip on Verden Tool, they do great work and were a pleasure work with.
BTW, thanks for the tip on Verden Tool, they do great work and were a pleasure work with.
#9
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Very cool pic. Menacing! Gawd that's fast. Where's the parachute? Stay thirsty.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
That's a cool gear calculator. I'm running 315/30 R888 so I think they might be a bit smaller than stock.
As far as pics, I will post what I have.
As a modaholic, I treated myself to a lift this past Christmas and a couple of electric wrenches. Within a couple of days the car was disassembled to the tub. I just couldn't stop taking parts off the car.
EHPS conversion, remove distributor,Oil separator can, Sound deadening,add Syvec X10 for more sensors, ( dual TB prep)
For me having a lift improves the quality of the work while keeping the job enjoyable.
As far as pics, I will post what I have.
As a modaholic, I treated myself to a lift this past Christmas and a couple of electric wrenches. Within a couple of days the car was disassembled to the tub. I just couldn't stop taking parts off the car.
EHPS conversion, remove distributor,Oil separator can, Sound deadening,add Syvec X10 for more sensors, ( dual TB prep)
For me having a lift improves the quality of the work while keeping the job enjoyable.
#12
Rennlist Member
calculator: http://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-geareng.aspx
You've been busy, putting the new lift to good use!! I like my manual rack, although I did consider electric too. I guess an oil catch can is a good idea but have also heard of problems from them clogging. Haven't notice any excess oil in the intake with the stock system so far. Dual throttle bodies, that sounds interesting, I've seen pics of Mode engines with separate intake manifold off the intercooler for each bank, with I assume either a dual or individual throttle bodies. Not going to be satisfied with 215 - you wan to go faster??? Love it.
You've been busy, putting the new lift to good use!! I like my manual rack, although I did consider electric too. I guess an oil catch can is a good idea but have also heard of problems from them clogging. Haven't notice any excess oil in the intake with the stock system so far. Dual throttle bodies, that sounds interesting, I've seen pics of Mode engines with separate intake manifold off the intercooler for each bank, with I assume either a dual or individual throttle bodies. Not going to be satisfied with 215 - you wan to go faster??? Love it.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
I'll be satisfied with 215, My thought behind the Dual throttle bodies is improved throttle response and yes more top end power with out the restriction. It's a huge project. I've been chipping away.
#14
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Tacker
Great thread (as usual) and thanks for sharing.
Can I ask what the torque delivery is like now, when does boost start coming in (are you still 3.6l) and when does it peak ?
What LSD do you use, I presume 1 2 and 3 gears are pretty tractionless ?
I think we discussed head temps before, do you have any measurements with the latest set up, I would imagine at these power levels you must be getting close to critical ?
Some more engine pics from the bottom and top would be great
Great thread (as usual) and thanks for sharing.
Can I ask what the torque delivery is like now, when does boost start coming in (are you still 3.6l) and when does it peak ?
What LSD do you use, I presume 1 2 and 3 gears are pretty tractionless ?
I think we discussed head temps before, do you have any measurements with the latest set up, I would imagine at these power levels you must be getting close to critical ?
Some more engine pics from the bottom and top would be great
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
current setup is boost per RPM, the ramp is very steep from 3500 to 4500 topping out at 784. Timing is 9 degrees at peak.This is the way it was tuned on the dyno. I can easily change how steep the ramp is if the traction control can't keep up. I can go WOT thru the gears with out much drama just a little wiggle.
As far as LSD,stock housing with guard friction discs.
When we dyno ed the car ambient temps were between 95-100 f. The *** of the car was backed up close to a wall so we were recirculating allot of hot air.we had several fans going. the session was about 2 1/2 hours. We had to let the car cool off after 45 mins or so.
I'm using fast response thermocouple type sensors for everything. The cylinder head sensor is under the sparkplug.
temp readings after 45 min of dyno before pull/during @ peak TQ/after
CHT 294/285/348 Cylinder head temp
ACT 92/75/96 Air charge temp
AIT 96/96/101 Air box inlet temp
CET 138/176/270 compressor exit temp
EGT 792/1121/1245 exhaust gas temp
After a cool down of 20 mins the peak temp CHT came down 25degrees F. During the pull the cylinder heads cool down about 10 degrees or so. after the pull they spike up 40 to 50 degrees. I've seen much better cooling when the car is not strapped to the dyno. Only a 15 degree spike on the road after a pull and a 20 degree drop during the pull.
Limp Mode is set to 340.
I'll dig up some pics
As far as LSD,stock housing with guard friction discs.
When we dyno ed the car ambient temps were between 95-100 f. The *** of the car was backed up close to a wall so we were recirculating allot of hot air.we had several fans going. the session was about 2 1/2 hours. We had to let the car cool off after 45 mins or so.
I'm using fast response thermocouple type sensors for everything. The cylinder head sensor is under the sparkplug.
temp readings after 45 min of dyno before pull/during @ peak TQ/after
CHT 294/285/348 Cylinder head temp
ACT 92/75/96 Air charge temp
AIT 96/96/101 Air box inlet temp
CET 138/176/270 compressor exit temp
EGT 792/1121/1245 exhaust gas temp
After a cool down of 20 mins the peak temp CHT came down 25degrees F. During the pull the cylinder heads cool down about 10 degrees or so. after the pull they spike up 40 to 50 degrees. I've seen much better cooling when the car is not strapped to the dyno. Only a 15 degree spike on the road after a pull and a 20 degree drop during the pull.
Limp Mode is set to 340.
I'll dig up some pics