394mm/390 CCM Brakes!
#46
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Thread Starter
the holes for the little screws not lining up so drilling new holes and counter sink using old rotor to locate the holes, less than 5 mins and very straightforward. (RB send me a template but I didn't use it). Also probably don't really need these screws anyways.
#50
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Thread Starter
Depressing brake pedal so all the brake fluid doesn't run out.
I've collected all the weights and will post those later. Will get a chance to finish install/bleeding today!
I've collected all the weights and will post those later. Will get a chance to finish install/bleeding today!
#51
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Central California
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Looks great. Just the visuals show it will be a huge improvement. Probably way more than most would ever need. By the look of your old seals, I'd say you may be tapping into the extra bhp. :-)
I wonder, if the stock brakes have almost 2000 bhp, what'll these kick down? Nice stuff.
Richard
I wonder, if the stock brakes have almost 2000 bhp, what'll these kick down? Nice stuff.
Richard
#52
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Thread Starter
more or less done, need to go out and bleed once more as I'm not quite happy with the pedal feel (which I'm sure will get better with the bleeding as it feels better after pumping). Bedded the pads in. They do seem to lock up with less effort, need more seat time to get used to them. No leaks on quick inspection. They sure look cool.
The 19" wheels feel okay, won't be a problem on the track. I can also change compression setting to play with them a bit.
Had to take the Giro disc sticker off, and replace with RB sticker.
The passenger side rear do seem to rub a touch, will massage the fenders a little and they should be fine (or increase camber a bit).
The 19" wheels feel okay, won't be a problem on the track. I can also change compression setting to play with them a bit.
Had to take the Giro disc sticker off, and replace with RB sticker.
The passenger side rear do seem to rub a touch, will massage the fenders a little and they should be fine (or increase camber a bit).
#53
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Thread Starter
I've calculated out all the weights.
fronts: stock calipers/pads/lines/bolts 11 lb + Giros 18 (stock 20) = 29lb Giros (31lb stock)
RB calipers/pads/lines/spacer/bolts 17.5 lb+13.5 rotors = 31 lbs
=> essentially same weights as RB calipers are much bigger and heavier, rotating mass is lighter though..
rear: stock calipers/pads/lines 10lb + rotor 18 lb = 28 lb
RB calipers/spacer/lines 11 + rotor13.5 lb= 24.5 lb
=> 3.5 lb lighter.
Wheels/tires
my forgeline 18's were pretty light - front tire 245 + 8.5x18 wheel = 47 lb
rears 315 tire + wheel = 55 lb
19" fikse 8.5 front 235 = 50 lb
19" 11 rear 305 = 58 lb
So essentially 3 lb heavier in front with this set up
no change in rear...
Not what I was hoping for but, will see how it performs!
fronts: stock calipers/pads/lines/bolts 11 lb + Giros 18 (stock 20) = 29lb Giros (31lb stock)
RB calipers/pads/lines/spacer/bolts 17.5 lb+13.5 rotors = 31 lbs
=> essentially same weights as RB calipers are much bigger and heavier, rotating mass is lighter though..
rear: stock calipers/pads/lines 10lb + rotor 18 lb = 28 lb
RB calipers/spacer/lines 11 + rotor13.5 lb= 24.5 lb
=> 3.5 lb lighter.
Wheels/tires
my forgeline 18's were pretty light - front tire 245 + 8.5x18 wheel = 47 lb
rears 315 tire + wheel = 55 lb
19" fikse 8.5 front 235 = 50 lb
19" 11 rear 305 = 58 lb
So essentially 3 lb heavier in front with this set up
no change in rear...
Not what I was hoping for but, will see how it performs!
#54
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Thread Starter
Actually, having big brakes (on all 4 corners) without increasing unsprung weight is pretty good, wouldn't be able to do that with any other kit.
#56
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Thread Starter
^
The rotating components even with the added wt of the wheels/tires end up less by 1.5 lbs per corner (vs giro disc, 3.5lbs less in front cf stock). Looking forward to some data logs to see if that means anything.
The rotating components even with the added wt of the wheels/tires end up less by 1.5 lbs per corner (vs giro disc, 3.5lbs less in front cf stock). Looking forward to some data logs to see if that means anything.
#57
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Thread Starter
Switched over to more track friendly pads. Super easy to change pads, can push up on the pads from below with your fingers to get them out. The pads are pretty big in the front (pic cf stock size plagid yellows), about the same in the back. I guess larger pads help overall although my high school physics tells me friction is more a function of clamping force and friction coefficients. Do you require less clamping force if you have a larger area for the same friction force? can't remember. Diy pad/caliper spreader still fits and works pretty well. Made some foam rotor protectors that can be pushed in and removed between the spokes to use when removing the wheels, although with my scissor lift, I think I'd be okay without if I'm careful.
#59
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Thread Starter
^ thanx!
some pics from yesterday eve with friends.
(I think I'm due for a colour scheme change though, I have a design plan and will do the change probably after my track day next sat!)
some pics from yesterday eve with friends.
(I think I'm due for a colour scheme change though, I have a design plan and will do the change probably after my track day next sat!)
#60
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Thread Starter
So for those who think about these things...
I’ve calculated out the front/rear brake bias based on rotor size and caliper piston dia. The 993 turbo has an unusually high front bias with small 28mm pistons in the rear (cf na 993/993rs/963 – 993 rs uses 30/36mm pistons). Some people advocate using the 993RS calipers on our cars to increase rear bias. The other variable is the pressure limiting valve. The 993 turbo has a 55 bar rear pressure limiting valve (vs 993/993rs 40 bar, 964 45 bar, 964 rs 55bar). The effective rotor sizes are also different. Having a LSD would also make a difference.
Any hoo calculating out the front/rear brake torque ratios including all variable above (not including pad surface area/lsd). I get a front/rear ratio (at 70 bar line pressures) of 3 for 993, 2.6 for 993rs, 3.2 for 964 rs and 3.7 for 993 turbo.
Some people feel the 993rs calipers are too much (without a pressure limiting valve when matched with 993turbo fronts – ie rears lock up).
Calculating/estimating the front back torque ratios for the RB set up, knowing the piston sizes and essentially similar sized rotors (front/back), I get 2.5 ish at 70 bar pressures with the rear pressure limiting valve, and 1.4 ish without pressure limiting valve (I still have the stock valve). So this set up increases the rear bias from 3.7 to 2.5 (at 70 bar with pressure limiting valve).
I’ll see how this changes things on the track (next Sat) but so far, these RB brakes feel great. No hint of rear lock up, if anything probably still leaving more brake potential in the rear.
(all calculations available upon request!).
I’ve calculated out the front/rear brake bias based on rotor size and caliper piston dia. The 993 turbo has an unusually high front bias with small 28mm pistons in the rear (cf na 993/993rs/963 – 993 rs uses 30/36mm pistons). Some people advocate using the 993RS calipers on our cars to increase rear bias. The other variable is the pressure limiting valve. The 993 turbo has a 55 bar rear pressure limiting valve (vs 993/993rs 40 bar, 964 45 bar, 964 rs 55bar). The effective rotor sizes are also different. Having a LSD would also make a difference.
Any hoo calculating out the front/rear brake torque ratios including all variable above (not including pad surface area/lsd). I get a front/rear ratio (at 70 bar line pressures) of 3 for 993, 2.6 for 993rs, 3.2 for 964 rs and 3.7 for 993 turbo.
Some people feel the 993rs calipers are too much (without a pressure limiting valve when matched with 993turbo fronts – ie rears lock up).
Calculating/estimating the front back torque ratios for the RB set up, knowing the piston sizes and essentially similar sized rotors (front/back), I get 2.5 ish at 70 bar pressures with the rear pressure limiting valve, and 1.4 ish without pressure limiting valve (I still have the stock valve). So this set up increases the rear bias from 3.7 to 2.5 (at 70 bar with pressure limiting valve).
I’ll see how this changes things on the track (next Sat) but so far, these RB brakes feel great. No hint of rear lock up, if anything probably still leaving more brake potential in the rear.
(all calculations available upon request!).