Kevin

White911, the check valves that you have linked to are aftermarket and not Genuine Porsche.. I have seen these fail after the install (results will vary) And yes, the genuine factory one do fail but usually past the 4 to 5 year mark.. FYI, it's almost impossible to install the factory feed line and attach it to the check valve.

nine45s

Kevin,

What are the symptoms when the check valves fail ?
Mine are probably 7 - 8 years old.

Kevin

As the engine ages, the heat from the turbine housing will coke up the actual "ball" check valve internally. You then have oil movement from the cam housing due to the hydraulic lifters bleeding down over time (days/weeks).. The easiest way is to pull the drain plugs to the sump tanks and watch a steady drip of oil... You have to make sure that you don't have oil from the crankcase backing up or a blown oil filter..

If you don't have any issues, I wouldn't touch them..

DRPM

^
I pulled the plugs on turbo oil tanks and had too much oil flowing back from the scavenger pump.
Installed some new p-trap oil return lines from RUF DE and fixed the problem for me.

DiegoR

I think the trick for those return lines are the "U" shape upwards at the middle of the line aprox. Some use this idea and some go further and install some check valves there as well.

I will try with the inlet turbo oil check valves and see how it does...if still leak, I will have to do the return lines as well.

White911TTOne

I just got them for my build and yes you can pick them up at $77 each. Kevin also sells a kit for $400 and change but if you would like to build your own it would be at least $100 cheaper. Here's the link that shows you how to route the lines and what fitting you need.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...valve-kit.html

Kevin

Did you understand my point? The aftermarket CNC'd valve is failing quickly. How do I know? I get the calls, the emails and the failed valves on turbochargers that are sent to me.. My recommendation is to BUY the Genuine Porsche check valve. Not the aftermarket valve..

OverBoosted28

I vaguely recall, some smart fellow, coined a phrase, long ago. It goes something like this, "you get what you pay for". :-)
Somethings you just don't want to skimp on. For me, it's things I may have to buy (at least) twice, if I get the "bargain" product.

White911TTOne

Kevin, what's the part number on the OEM valve? M

White911TTOne

Ok, so got the number is 996-107-030-78 Sonnen Porsche OEM parts sells them for $69.
Sounds like I will return the aftermarket ones back and get the OEM valve for less.
After all "you get what you pay for " right Overboosted
Thanks Kevin.

Kevin

Holiday Special..

Ultimate Motorwerks Check Valve kit... $495.00 Shipped (outside US, extra shipping charge)..

Genuine Porsche components, CNC'd specific engineered fittings to provide exact fitment and sealing to ensure years of service.

DRPM

Correct start with check valves first.
In 2005 I did the check valves which worked fine.
Needed to put in the return lines this year due to flow back from the scavenger pump.

C4Spolar

So if I understand correctly there's no device in the hard scavenge lines from RUF, it's just their bent differently. When you mean p-trap is by design?

OverBoosted28

Yes you're correct. The return/scavenge lines are inverted "P-traps", so the oil has to climb uphill, and reduces the chance of oil seeping back into turbo tanks. Apparently "TurboKraft" has check valves that you cut into your existing return lines. Andial/RUF return lines are solid, inverted, p-trap lines.