WingChun

Well done Mike, big job out the way.

I'm still in the process of doing this job but on axle stands and you're right, trying to wrestle the 100+ kg transmission down is very challenging.

I completely removed the Torque Tube (to investigate some whining) and installed some 240mm long bolts to hang the engine from the rear mounts but still found it difficult to find room to clear the underside of the tunnel near the output shaft.
Tilting the engine down at the front did the trick as you have also mentioned.

My "while you're in there" list has also vastly exceeded the original plan to include strip and check/replace suspension, top mounts, wheel bearings, short shift/GR, clutch, RS flywheel, clutch slave etc.

Its only really with advice and posts on here though I am able to attempt these jobs, thanks for taking the time to detail your work.

Stu

Mike J

Stut, great for you to tackle this! The reinstallation is a bit of a bear, but it varies. I have had it so perfect that one shove, and the transmission/engine slide together very easily, others that you wrestle and swear a lot. Sometimes the splines to not line up, so I put the tranny in gear, and try to rotate the main shaft by turning both of the output shafts ---

Best of luck, please post your results, and if you have anything to discuss or questions, don't be afraid to ask! (or PM me... )

Cheers,

Mike

bbs993tt

Mike,

Great writeup and very timely - I was thinking of doing something very similar. Thanks.

Mike J

Well, there is a fair amount of stuff that I skipped - so please post if you have questions or observations ...

Knight

Just giving Mike's thread a good bump and thanks as well!

My RS/Sachs Clutch setup has been giving me on/off chatter at low speeds for a good year or so now. Based on my guess from scattered records I think it was approaching almost 60K miles too.

We performed this upgrade on my TT in December, originally with NA slave. It was perfectly drive able although a very stiff clutch which wasn't the best for my knee (sports related injury). Regardless it was still much better than the assisted version, which I always felt lacked good feel (on/off engagement to me on the RS setup).

This is the clutch kit I got from Kevin @ Ultimatemotorwerks (only difference is I opted for the reg GT3 clutch disc and not the 4.0 which offered some savings).

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...-445-00-a.html

So last week we swapped out the NA slave with the MPL slave and I'd have to say it's perfect! Just like Mike had stated it's equivalent to being a bit stiffer than driving a 993 NA RS setup, although pretty damn close if your not that sensitive.

Anyone in need of a clutch replacement, I'd highly recommended.

Basal Skull

^ All you need now is the manual rack, then you can get rid of that pump and hydraulics completely!

PiB993

Will this set of mods make my clutch engage lower to the floor? My clutch engages so close to the end of it's travel such that my knee is bent - it makes driving the car very challenging in some situations. I've tried accelerating up a hill on boost in 5th and 6th and it doesn't slip (revs don't rise out of sync with gear). It does jutter (not a sound) the car around at slow speeds when slipping the clutch during garage maneuvering.

Mike J

The clutch engagement point will rise as the clutch wears - so its possible you are close to having your clutch totally worn. How many miles on the clutch?

Its also seems to vary a bit depending on which Pressure Plate is used - my pressure plate is a different part number than Baron's for instance (I installed both - both sourced from Kevin at different times) and my pedal is much closer to the floor than Baron's.

There is no adjustment - you could machine an extension to the pin on the slave cylinder so its longer, which would mean the engagement would happen sooner, raising the engagement point. That would be some custom work.

Cheers,

Mike

PiB993

Almost 18k miles. 2 previous owners.

Mike J

That clutch should be in good shape assuming the previous owners were not idiots, but you did mention a judder, which can indicate wear and/or oil on the face of the disk. Again there is no adjustment available other than getting into some custom machining etc.