MPL Slave DIY
#16
Rennlist Member
Ordered the NA slave and tried installing it today. Spent 2 hours chasing that damn nut with a 13 inch cube. Something tells me I am going after it the wrong way. I sent Basa Skull a PM and let's see what he says.
I am chasing it from the transmission side, I think Basa Skull might have been chasing the nut from the Engine side or back of the slave facing the engine. Other than that everything else seems reachable.
In terms of line to cap off I see there are 3 lines one is the incoming, one is a return and one just goes into the slave which I think is coming from the expansion tank. One of those has to be capped off and I believe it's the one that has no pressure. I will take a pic of it.
Here is a picture if how I am currently approaching it with a cube from the front but it's tight and can't get a good turn on it since space is very tight and I am on the floor.
I am chasing it from the transmission side, I think Basa Skull might have been chasing the nut from the Engine side or back of the slave facing the engine. Other than that everything else seems reachable.
In terms of line to cap off I see there are 3 lines one is the incoming, one is a return and one just goes into the slave which I think is coming from the expansion tank. One of those has to be capped off and I believe it's the one that has no pressure. I will take a pic of it.
Here is a picture if how I am currently approaching it with a cube from the front but it's tight and can't get a good turn on it since space is very tight and I am on the floor.
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
As I mentioned in my pm, I used an closed end/box wrench, I couldn't get a socket to work. Check the link in the first post (to my original thread) for pictures of the wrench I had to modify and the slave nut being worked on. There's a little space that the handle of the 13 mm box wrench can slide into between the body and front of the engine (try putting a wrench up there from the driver's side and you will find it but a regular wrench will be bent too much at the neck to fit). If you can get the closed end of the wrench on the nut, you should be able to loosen it (might only be able to move it one or two teeth at a time). May need to change the height of your car on the stands so you can get better leverage - sometimes it helps for the car to be higher or sometimes lower. Some have loosened the engine mounts to get an extra few mm to work.
#19
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You talking about the 13mm nuts that hold the slave to the transmission housing? I use a 13mm box end wrench and its usually not too hard, but I also do it from a lift where I its much easier to put your entire arm deep up by the transmission.
As Basal Skull mentioned, some lower the transmission/engine. It does help for sure.
Cheers,
Mike
As Basal Skull mentioned, some lower the transmission/engine. It does help for sure.
Cheers,
Mike
#20
Rennlist Member
Well today spent another 2-3 hours getting to the slave, removed all pentosin lines, removed the accumulator and all I have left are the 2 damn bolts attached to the tranny. Thats the best part I guess....
I was looking at the NA Slave and it has only one line which is the line. The turbo slave has 3 lines.... That means we cap off 2 lines?? Someone please chime in. Thanks.
If this NA slave thing does not work I will just byte the bullet and buy the Turbo slave.
I was looking at the NA Slave and it has only one line which is the line. The turbo slave has 3 lines.... That means we cap off 2 lines?? Someone please chime in. Thanks.
If this NA slave thing does not work I will just byte the bullet and buy the Turbo slave.
#21
Rennlist Member
Today was able to get to those 2 bolts. One of them got badly stripped had to buy the Irwin extractor 13mm socket. Sure enough got that sucker out.
In terms of capping lines. 2 lines have to be capped. The only line that remains is the line that comes from the clutch brake pedal. Will install the NA slave tomorrow and bleed.
In terms of capping lines. 2 lines have to be capped. The only line that remains is the line that comes from the clutch brake pedal. Will install the NA slave tomorrow and bleed.
#23
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Thread Starter
good work!
It's a little bit of a pain getting the NA slave on (and pushing the plunger in as you thread the nut). Remember to open up the rubber view hole on the clutch housing so you can reach in to check that you've connected with the clutch fork correctly.
It's a little bit of a pain getting the NA slave on (and pushing the plunger in as you thread the nut). Remember to open up the rubber view hole on the clutch housing so you can reach in to check that you've connected with the clutch fork correctly.
#24
Rennlist Member
Any idea where this rubber view hole is? lol Thanks much appreciated man.
Edit** Nevermind googled it and found the rubber hole. Amazing all the little tricks.
Last edited by 993Godspeed; 12-08-2014 at 04:01 PM.
#25
Rennlist Member
And here is the NA slave installed and bled. Thank goodness for a power bleeder. clutch is definitely a little heavy but I like it.
Thanks to all those for your help, specially Ryojo. Much appreciated.
Thanks to all those for your help, specially Ryojo. Much appreciated.
#28
Rennlist Member
I squat close to 250lbs so this will just add to my work out. lol
I edited picture (post #22) above showing the 2 lines to be capped off. I bought some AN anodized fittings and shut them off.
#30
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Do you remember the thread size? Any particular supplier?
I wonder if capping off these lines actually leaves the pump pressurizing the circuit - sort of like when you have the steering rack all the way to a stop and the peak pressure in the pump rises. The other option would be to connect the two lines, which means the pump would just circulate the fluid, but it would not have any pressure - and if that is shared with the power steering, it would disable that assistance.
Does the pump sound normal or it sounds stressed?
Cheers,
Mike