993Godspeed

Thanks for the Great advice!

Switched the coils and car runs 90% better. It appears my coil was no good. It also appears I need to upgrade to a CD system. Even though she hits boost she still breaks up which tells me it most likely is blowing ofF the spark after boost comes in. She starts breaking up after 4500 rpms or so. My tech says I could either gap the plugs closer or get an MSD ignition system. I will look into your crane system. Thanks!!

993Godspeed

Changed the plugs this weekend, I'ts like having a root canal but I did them.

Car is a beast!!! Holy smack! 1.4 Bars all day on Race gas. I also noticed car oil gets really hot quickly and gets heat soaked. After 2 or 3 runs with these GT3076's engine oil temp is past the 1/2 almost 2/3 mark and hangs up there. I think I will add a small front mount oil cooler to help. Any suggestions? Thx

Mike J

You have the fan bypass installed? This is so the oil cooler fan is running at high speed before you even get onto the track. That helps a bit getting ahead of that heat rush. But that cooler only has so much capacity, so the second oil cooler makes perfect sense.

Cheers,

Mike

993Godspeed

Nope, I don't thats a great idea. I think I will add a toggle switch to turn it on automatically for spirited runs. How do I bypass the ECU?

Mike J

I did three this weekend alone - I need to update the procedure on pcarworkshop, but its essentially close. You can add a switch to your central console, you are fooling the CCU (the climate control unit) on the dashboard, which controls the high speed fan circuit, into thinking the temp sensor on the oil cooler has triggered. The sensor wire is G12 (Green/Black) wire on the larger connector on the CCU -> basically it goes open circuit to trigger the fan, so you put a switch in circuit that you can open circuit it manually. Very handy in heavy traffic, hotter days, or track days.

See this procedure:

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...verride_Switch

I really need to update it, its very dated, but it does work.

Shoot me any questions if you have any.

Cheers,

Mike

993Godspeed

Thanks Mike!, This and a front cooler should make night and day.

sonny1

There is not such thing as to much oil cooling(same goes with intercoolers) on air cooled cars, try to smack in the front the most cores you can, I'll give you an example of what you can shoot in there, one right stock unit, one center mounted unit (B&B unit works),one left side unit (FVD,RUF,etc),this should give you more than enough cooling capacity.,cheers,Sonny.

993Godspeed

Thanks Sonny!!!

Basal Skull

mine
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=28499

993Godspeed

Excellent, Thanks R!

993Godspeed

Sorry to reignite my own thread but need some info from the gurus here....

The CEL code I get is (P0130 ) O2 Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1, but I just replaced all 02 sensors for new ones and still get same code.

After installing my protomotive headers and T04 turbos (which I am replacing with GTX3076 soon) I have developed a Lean condition at idle. I know many will tell me it's a vacuum leak etc. I have searched and can't find it, every hose seems plumbed correctly. I might attempt a smoke machine soon unless someone could tell me how to test the system pressurized. The car drives perfectly fine cruising but any minute I stop and idle my A/F meter goes of the charts into Lean. I then start popping and car does "phut" "phut" sound.

I bought the durametric cable thinking it would help only to find out that I believe due to the Protomotive tune it might have blocked of any live data or reading capabilities with the tool. I can't get into the ECU and do any logging at all. Has any one experienced this?

Lastly, I thought it was the MAF, so I disconnected it since the car will revert to the ECU limp map and car still idle'd lean.. This eliminated the MAF possibility I think.

Any help is appreciated, don't know what else it could be, I have read so many other threads from people saying to check the oil cap etc, others say to check the CAM timing but I cant do that due to the blocking of the Protomotive tune in the ECU.

Basal Skull

could it be something simple like a plugged fuel filter? malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator?

993Godspeed

Thanks for the suggestion, what's the best way to check this without replacing it? Checking fuel pressure? I bought a FP tester kit this morning. Will check that. I could take out fuel filter out today and see if it's clogged or just replace for new one. I will also order a FP regulator. Can't be injectors as I sent last month to service and flow check them. They were great.

Do you know what's FP at idle? I will google it. Thx

tacker

Since you have Todd's Tune, Do you have a resistor network to trick the Maff?

993Godspeed

Yes, originally didn't and car wouldn't even run. Then got the network resistor and has never given me a problem.

Do you know what FP at idle should be? Googled a few posts and should be around 47-50psi... Let me know if it sounds about right. Thx