BABaracus

Jebia,

Thank you for the update...my gauge is doing exactly what you are experiencing i.e. often sits around 0.2 bar even though I am not on boost.
But does read correctly once I step on it...all the way to 0.8
After about 10-20 mins of driving it settles back to 0 bar at idle...but then pops back to 0.2 for no apparent reason. I suspect a bad sensor also.

Regards

- james

jebia

The new boost sensor fixed my eratic reading problem. Boost reading is now solid and linear. Might be my imagination but the car seems to run smoother now.

jebia

another pic showing the old sensor, don't forget to re-use the old washer, the new sensor doesn't come with a new one. Couldn't get a wrench on the sensor, but a small cresent works just fine.

jebia

One last pic showing the heater fan and duct work removed. The two circles show where the heater fan mounting bolts mount to the intake. The X shows the sensor location way the back. Pretty easy to remoe the stuff once, just a couple of hose clamps, a few electrical connectors and one vacume hose connection.

BABaracus

Jon,

Thxs for the photos, they should make the install so much easier...much appreciated

- james

jmreiser

That is a non-reusable crush washer. I agree don't forget it, but best to replace it. Don't want a boost leak.

AndyT

A crush washer by definition implies it gets crushed once and then it's spent. Why did you reuse that ? Are they on backorder from Germany for 4 weeks like everything else !!! hahaha.

I am the posterchild for boost leak probs. Once my tech went through the car and found a plethora of potential or actual leaks and secured them the car has been running like a champ !! Thanks Joel : )

rcg412

I know this is an old thread. but after a very spirited run today, full boost for a while, varying, etc, I noticed my boost gauge started being more "sensitive". I.e. light throttle after some pull shows 0.1 bar. It used to always go from 0 to 0.2 to 0.8, after a few seconds etc. If anything showing I have more boost at lighter throttle. Maybe its normal now... any thoughts?

At rest, the turbo reads 0.0, if i rev engine above 4k, maybe 0.1 lights up for a moment, but then goes to 0.0. Thanks, Ross

Carrera GT

This thread is an oldie, but a goodie.

It doesn't sound like the car has a problem. So long as it develops power smoothly and doesn't overheat, so long as it builds quickly to 0.8 and holds boost through to the redline, there's no immediate cause to suspect a leak.

Revving a turbo at idle will not build boost, so the 0.0 and 0.1 is "normal." Keep in mind the turbo display in the factory tach is not a "real" reading, it's an interpolated value taken from reading ambient air pressure, intake vacuum, plenum pressure, MAF sensor, and boost controller status. I don't recall anyone publishing the exact definition of it, but you might find some pretty detailed threads here on various aspects of how the DME behavior and MAF interact to control the waste gate and how the diverter system behaves. I run a mechanical boost gauge that's delightfully smooth and "real" ... it's an instant diagnostic watchdog ... but keep the eyes on the road, just suction cup a cell phone to the windshield and video record the gauges for an acceleration run, then replay to see if anything was haywire.

rcg412

Thanks carrera GT. Car runs fantastic, figured it might be some sensor giving up the ghost. But with that said, it being more "sensitive" it also seems more accurate... the boost should be a little on some throttle... WHere before it was always 0.00 and didn't start reading until 0.2. In other words, I seldom saw 0.1.

rcg412

So my car has graduated to the original posters issue. 0.2 bar at idle. Just acrs funny. Boost is great. I will have the sensor replaced at some point. Other than the display, doesn't seem to effect the car.

badabing

I had the same prob. Was reading .01 or .02 while idling. Changed sensor and all is good.

Quadcammer

i know, necro bump, but I just did this on my car. Slight pain in the ***** to get to. I moved the wire tree by unbolting 2 10mm bolts and undoing the electrical connectors. This gave me more room to get in there with the adjustable wrench. For those keeping score at home, this fitting is a 24mm making it all but impossible to get a standard wrench on it. Also, the crush washers for the sensor are the same ones for the turbo sumps.

My gauge would always read .3 bar or similar, now its back to zero at idle.