Lug nut broke - CRAP!
#1
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Lug nut broke - CRAP!
I was removing my rear wheel yesterday and one of the lug nuts broke off when I removed it. It must have been over torqued when put on.
2/3 of the nut is out and the lip part is still stuck in there.
Any advice on how I can get this out without destroying the wheel or the bolt?
Thanks.
ALAN
2/3 of the nut is out and the lip part is still stuck in there.
Any advice on how I can get this out without destroying the wheel or the bolt?
Thanks.
ALAN
#2
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If you're describing the base of the nut, is stuck on the stud, at the mating end (in the wheel), and you look in it to see the stud threads, and base of lug nut, then you're sorta screwed. Not sure what route might resolve this. What may work, is get another lug not on there, and try to break stud off, at hub. If base of broken nut it still tight (and there's no room to try and break stud off) then it may not work. Next step is to see IF you can get to rear of hub, and grind back of stud off.
Maybe chisel remaining nut, to get it pried off? Don't worry about stud, it's easily replaced. Pics, may help with approach.
Maybe chisel remaining nut, to get it pried off? Don't worry about stud, it's easily replaced. Pics, may help with approach.
#3
Yes. This has happend to me with a wheel lock. Use a hole saw with a diameter just large enough to fit over the stud to cut out the nut. If you go slow you should be able to get it out without causing any damage.
edit: used a 3/4 inch milwaukee hole saw. Took 10 min to get the broken stud out! GL!
edit: used a 3/4 inch milwaukee hole saw. Took 10 min to get the broken stud out! GL!
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This has happened to me a couple of times & the reason I now use steel lug nuts....
My method was to drill a line of small holes as far into the seat of the nut as I was comfortable with - one line on either side of the stud. I then took a thin chisel and whacked the drill lines carefully until the lug seat split.
It wasn't easy or fun, but it worked. I did cause some minor damage to the lug hole but it was insignificant.
My method was to drill a line of small holes as far into the seat of the nut as I was comfortable with - one line on either side of the stud. I then took a thin chisel and whacked the drill lines carefully until the lug seat split.
It wasn't easy or fun, but it worked. I did cause some minor damage to the lug hole but it was insignificant.
#5
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Using the procedure Nurburger suggested, I would use a sharp pin punch to produce a good seat to start drilling each location. That will help keep the drill from accidentally wandering. Use a variable speed drill...slowly and carefully.
#6
Yes. This has happend to me with a wheel lock. Use a hole saw with a diameter just large enough to fit over the stud to cut out the nut. If you go slow you should be able to get it out without causing any damage.
edit: used a 3/4 inch milwaukee hole saw. Took 10 min to get the broken lug nut out! GL!
edit: used a 3/4 inch milwaukee hole saw. Took 10 min to get the broken lug nut out! GL!
The hole saw only needs to cut through the remainder of the aluminum lug nut. Even if you wander off slightly and chew into the crest of the stud threads; most would much rather replace a stud, than a wheel.
Last edited by nine9six; 02-19-2017 at 02:34 PM.
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#8
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#9
good catch . Also, when using this method, I would actually recommend against tightening the remaining nuts, and instead would remove them all. This way you would know the second you drill through the nut, avoiding damage to the wheel.
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Thank you all.
I followed the hole saw method and got the sucker out. Note, don't use the cheap Harbor Freight hole saw..went thru 2 of the 3/4 inch and had to run to Lowes to get a name brand one. Also, if any of the teeth breaks, make sure to pry it out b4 u continue otherwise more teeth will break. Lastly, spray a lot of lubricant...I used wd40.
I sacrificed a stud but saved the wheel...thank you lord.
B4
After
Now I need to work on suspension.
Would appreciate any suggestions . I have 19" Ruf replicas.
Cheers.
Alan
I followed the hole saw method and got the sucker out. Note, don't use the cheap Harbor Freight hole saw..went thru 2 of the 3/4 inch and had to run to Lowes to get a name brand one. Also, if any of the teeth breaks, make sure to pry it out b4 u continue otherwise more teeth will break. Lastly, spray a lot of lubricant...I used wd40.
I sacrificed a stud but saved the wheel...thank you lord.
B4
After
Now I need to work on suspension.
Would appreciate any suggestions . I have 19" Ruf replicas.
Cheers.
Alan
#12
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Now you need some new coil overs / shocks / lowering spring to loose the "Truck Stance."
#13
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#15