Switching oil?
02-12-2017, 02:08 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by agonzaga36
How often do you change 300V 15W-50? I drive about 3500-4000 miles a year and usually change out at that mileage interval or once a year.
02-12-2017, 03:31 PM
#32
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i've been running Brad Penn 15-40 from years ago when my car was up there at Rothsport for a regear and that's what Jeff recommended at the time. Is Motul 15-50 a level up in terms of best for these engines or not so compellingly different to warrant a switch?
02-14-2017, 03:48 PM
#33
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Synthetic oil constructed from base stock type. PAO vs Ester base stock?
Good discussion issue -
In over simplified synthetic base stock types terms,,, its not a PAO vs Ester base stock proposition. Synthetic oils begin life having there base stock biased one way or another. And in the end a combination of the two ^ base types. Never exclusively one way or the other. That's my chicken **** understanding.
In over simplified synthetic base stock types terms,,, its not a PAO vs Ester base stock proposition. Synthetic oils begin life having there base stock biased one way or another. And in the end a combination of the two ^ base types. Never exclusively one way or the other. That's my chicken **** understanding.
Over the years I've read many of these oil discussions and I've never seen mention of ester based synthetics as opposed to PAO based synthetics. From what I can ferret out, the ester based oils are superior but Rennlisters seem not to recommend them much. I think Motul and Redline are the only commonly available ester synthetics in the US. Since most of us are pretty compulsive about maintenance, why are we not using more ester? Help an old guy understand.
02-16-2017, 12:19 AM
#34
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This is taking into consideration the oil lines that go to the front rad and I am not sure what else. This is an interesting question. When I supply my own oil do I only need to bring 6-7 quarts max? IIRC total oil capacity is 12 quarts plus it's generally good to run a little lower on the dip stick. Is there no oil change protocol for getting more of the old oil out?
02-16-2017, 11:06 AM
#35
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02-18-2017, 12:08 PM
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02-20-2017, 06:42 PM
#38
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Using the correct grade of Mobil 1 or other is a good idea!
Here is the only example of oil related engine failure I came across for a street driven car where the wrong oil was used:
Here is the only example of oil related engine failure I came across for a street driven car where the wrong oil was used:
02-20-2017, 07:03 PM
#39
Ok. My issue with oil threads is that more often than not people who recommend a particular brand/type, end with saying "been doing it forever, very pleased" and I do not know what that means. I suspect that differences between good quality synthetics are not so discernable as to cause such obvious degradation so that owners, would say "been using for years and I'm not pleased".
So what to do? I think that one should always listen to a proven expert, someone who has seen hundreds of these engines apart. For me, that person is Steve Weiner. I used to run Mobil 0W40 (as recommended by Porsche) and I have switched to Motul 300V 15w-50 because, to put it bluntly, Steve said so. He also said it is probably overkill for street driving, but I'm fine with overkill Now, do I feel a difference? Heck no, but the ZDDP content explanation sounds reasonable to me so I am comfortable with my decision. I still enjoy reading oil discussions but in the end I cannot see one argument for changing.
So what to do? I think that one should always listen to a proven expert, someone who has seen hundreds of these engines apart. For me, that person is Steve Weiner. I used to run Mobil 0W40 (as recommended by Porsche) and I have switched to Motul 300V 15w-50 because, to put it bluntly, Steve said so. He also said it is probably overkill for street driving, but I'm fine with overkill
Now, do I feel a difference? Heck no, but the ZDDP content explanation sounds reasonable to me so I am comfortable with my decision. I still enjoy reading oil discussions but in the end I cannot see one argument for changing.
02-20-2017, 08:45 PM
#40
Since Oil is the topic du jour I have a question for the brain trust;
When doing an oil change does it make any sense to drain the oil tank and crank case when the engine is at operating temperature?
My rationale is more oil will come out since the oil cooler will drain also. I have been using this method but it can be tricky and somewhat dangerous because the oil is so hot.
Thanks
Allan
When doing an oil change does it make any sense to drain the oil tank and crank case when the engine is at operating temperature?
My rationale is more oil will come out since the oil cooler will drain also. I have been using this method but it can be tricky and somewhat dangerous because the oil is so hot.
Thanks
Allan
02-20-2017, 08:49 PM
#41
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02-21-2017, 12:03 PM
#42
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02-21-2017, 01:38 PM
#44
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I warm my car up to full operating temp by going on a drive. Then, by the time I put the car on the lift, get everything ready, take the rear wheel off, remove the heat exchanger cuplers, etc, the oil isn't scolding anymore, but still warm enough to flow nicely.
02-21-2017, 02:57 PM
#45
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